Removing excess varnish
I acquired a beautiful browning auto 5 that has been coated with so much varnish that you can't even feel the checkering. What can I use to get this stuff off and down to the original finish?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Walt
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Walt
0
-
Since it's varnish, then just like refinishing furniture.
Get some quality varnish remover from the hardware store.
Follow the directions on the can. You can use a tooth brush on the checkering, but some of the varnish remover will melt the plastic, so test it first. Better if you an find a brass bush that is soft and be very careful in cleaning out the checkeering.
I would refinish with Birchwood Casey Tru-oil and hand rub it in.
SOLD MY COW SO I DON'T NEED YOUR BULL
A Grumpy Old Man0 -
You can use any number of available products or solvents; taking off everything BUT the original finish will be the hard part. I had good results getting off several layers of gloss varnish (on an otherwise perfect Garand furniture set) using nothing but lacquer thinner & Scotchbrite pads. This stuff is very flammable, so if you'd rather use something like regular paint stripper (typically methylene chloride-based) that will work as well but not as fast.
Like I said though, the trick is not going into the non-factory finish.
I met a former Browning development guy thru this forum a few days ago; I'll see if he might know better what the nature of the original finish was...
He's replied that "...The Browning finish on the high gloss models is a polyurethane. ?It's very hard to remove...." so I'd say you'd probably be fairly safe with something like mineral spirits or plain paint thinner. Avoid anything with Acetone or Ketone unless you test it first on a small, inconspicuous area to see if these will etch the original, gloss finish under the gunk you want to take off.0 -
Please don't use "scotchbrite" or any other abrasive on your checkering... Brownell's sells a nylon bristle brush that will stand up to oven cleaner, acetone and everything I've dipped them in and used them with..They have a toothbrush style bristle on one end and some really great, short stiff bristles on the handle....Great for cleaning dissolved finishes out of checkering grooves.. Good luck... 0 -
In my opinion it is going to be extremely hard to get off the excess varnish without harming the factory finish. Besides, the previous owner probably put this extra varnish on because the original finish was in bad shape. It will be helpful to you if you can figure out what the finish actualy is not just saying its varnish. It could be a lacquer, polyurethane, shellac etc. all can have different removal methods. Usually a good all around gel stripper works well on all. You can get water clean up varities as well, for user clean up and less vapors. I am doing this on a butcher block table now. It may take a few coats and some final sanding to remove all the original finish. If you cannot strip it to the bare wood, do not use a rubbed oil finish, because it will not penetrate. However, if you do get it to the bare wood a Oil finish is the easiest and looks get. If this sounds difficult i recommend a professional, so you don't make the gun worse. Good Luck. 0 -
Left something out. Let the stripper do the work (I like the sound of that!) in the checkering. The less scrubbing or scrapping you have to do the better. The stiff bristled brushes work well as stated above as do dental tools. You can find this at some hardware and woodworking shops, or dental offices will actually give you old ones if you know some. Better make sure they sterilize them first. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
5 comments