Ejection Problem Browning A-5
Went pheasant hunting in Kansas past Dec. Problem is I could only get 1 shot off as the empty didn't eject, but, got stuck in the ejection port. My dad bought the gun new in 1946-48, 12 ga 2 3/4 shells.
Someone told me about an ejection ring? Anyone know what that is or if I should look at something else. any ideas will be welcomed.
ThanX
Greeker
Someone told me about an ejection ring? Anyone know what that is or if I should look at something else. any ideas will be welcomed.
ThanX
Greeker
0
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Friction ring most likely. Remove the forestock and there should be a diagram for the proper setup found there. My guess is improper setup or lack of lubrication in the receiver and friction assembly.
Nord0 -
This is a question more than an answer---could a 1948 A-5 have a short chamber? 0 -
I am far from being an expert on this, but I may have the answer, I think that the A5 has a ring that fits on the front of the magazine tube under the forearm that can be "flipped" over to acommadate light or heavy loads. You may have had it set for heavy loads but were shooting a light load.. I have had some experience with this on a friends gun but dont remember if it was an A5 or A500. Hope it helps and please dont anybody blast me for taking this guess 0 -
Geeker, I lost a long-winded reply to your post that I had worked on but its maybe just as well. www.browning.com has all sorts of manuals you can look at to set up your recoil assembly on the magazine tube in the event you have no diagram inside the forearm. Keep all elements here super-clean and lightly oiled. You may have an extractor problem, but I would address the recoil assembly first as you may be firing LoBrass shells with the recoil operation set up for HiBrass loads??? Or it may be that the magazine tube has gotten sticky or otherwise binding. The website has a cumbersome but sometimes helpful guide to dating your gun, etc. The date range you mention is watershed. I believe lots of A5's were made by Remington early post WWII (1946-48) Also think that the Light 12 was introduced around 1946. The Browning site will certainly help and perhaps bbq05 will see your post and weigh in. He has been of invaluable help to me. I have the A5 in SweetSixteen, MagTwelve and LightTwelve and I will be happy to help where I can.
timbroman@aol.com0 -
Thank you all very much for your input.
After looking at the Browning home page, I think I have found the problem and how to set that ring, depending on whether I'm shooting hi or lo brass, to alleviate the problem.
Many Thanks0 -
Clean it good. Set rings correctly. You should have no problems then.
America...Bless God.0 -
I had a problem with an A5 like you were having and tried different things.After getting POed and traded it off,I read about oiling the gun.After cleaning the gun and putting a very light coat of oil on it,it said to try to remove the oil you just put on with a clean,dry rag.Said my jamming or ejectiond problems were caused by too much oil.
Damn,I hate screwing myself![:(!]
Have guns,will travel0 -
It's easy to tell if a Browning A5 magazine tube was overlubricated. Nice big visible crack in the forend. 0 -
Hunting in December.... problem could be too much, wrong type oil on magazine tube. When the lub gets cold and the viscosity thickens, she won't cycle, thus you wind up with a single shot. Keep it clean, set the brake/friction rings correctly and use a good teflon based oil and you shouldn't have any problems. I've been out sea-duck hunting where my A-5 has had an 1/8" layer of ice on it and I didn't have any cycling problems. Good luck. 0 -
Greeker, SXS & Black correctly pointed out the perils of over-oiling. This from a circa 1959 Browning "Operation and Care" manual:
"Oil On The Magazine Tube" Pages 12-13
"Whether the friction ring is set for heavy loads or light loads, the amount and kind of oil on the magazine tube will, by varying the amount of friction, have an effect upon the amount of recoil. In general, the more oil that is put on the magazine tube (or bronze friction piece), the easier this friction piece will slide on the tube; hence, a greater degree of recoil will be obtained.
Example of the Use of Oil: If you are firing a light load and the gun still fails to eject, the addition of oil to the magazine tube in the region of the bronze friction piece will sufficiently increase recoil to a point satisfactory for good ejection.
Oil which congeals in cold weather or deposits gummy residue may reduce recoil to the point where the gun will fail to eject. Use a high quality lubricant. Occasionally clean the magazine tube, and relubricate.
NEVER REMOVE ALL OIL FROM THE MAGAZINE TUBE. At all times there must be at least a thin film of oil on the magazine tube. Otherwise, the bronze friction piece may score up the magazine tube."
A section titled OILING on page 16:
"Ordinary good judgement will indicate tat the metal parts of the gun should receive a light film of oil after the gun has been exposed to weather or handling.
Occasionally, a small drop of oil may be placed on breech block and barrel extension guides, etc. to relieve the effects of friction. DO NOT POUR LARGE QUANTITIES OF OIL INTO THE ACTION. A large excess of oil will run back into the wood of the stock and cause softening of the wood with consequent loosening of the stock."
There you have it regarding oiling. Its a fine line to dance along between too much and too little. Good luck with the gun. Best, Jim
timbroman@aol.com0
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