Der Gebirgsjager
I got out to my shooting area yesterday, and shot the Eddystone. I was happy with the results. I was on a improvised rest over the hood of my truck at 50 yds, just to see if it would even hit paper. I shot just one 3 shot group, and received a 1.25" group for my effort, I figure that means it will shoot better than that, and that is fine for me. My Springfield 03 MARK I, which I had never shot until yesterday, managed a group slightly bigger than that, and its barrel is in better shape than the Eddystone's. With practice, I know these guns will shoot better, as I am not use to the pull on these triggers, havent been shooting my military collection much. Anyway, I stated that I would let you know how it shot, and that was how it did, ok? Useful information for those of us that get barrels that look a little pitted and head space that isnt all that great. I still think the head space guages of today arent the same as the ones used when these guns were being made.
SSgt Ryan E. Roberts, USMC
SSgt Ryan E. Roberts, USMC
0
-
You are the man this is the second time you have give me the info I needed. It worked like a charm. 
col elect1mike Illinois
volinters RRG
O give me a home where no democrats roam0 -
You should be able to get an original flat bottom bolt with a straight handle from the Numrich Gun Parts Corp., Catalog #23, page 434, item #7710 for $17.25 plus shipping. That is a stripped bolt--body only--you can use the other parts from your present bolt. Or, you can order the entire bolt for $37.80. Or, you can order the bolt with a handle that they have bent for scope clearance, stripped, item #296450 for $36.35 or complete for $51.95. All from the same page of the same catalog. As to whether or not it will work: Maybe. All Mauser rifles were headspaced to a particular bolt when originally manufactured, and the bolt was numbered to match the receiver and barrel. These guns were made many years ago, and it is not at all unusual to find them with the bolt and receiver numbers mismatched. Often the receiver has been rebarrelled and either has no number, or that number is also mismatched. Very often they work just fine; but sometimes swapping parts around has resulted in improper headspace. On the plus side, the parts were usually manufactured to such close tolerances that you can usually get away with swapping bolts, but not always. If you replace your bolt you should have the headspace checked by a gunsmith who has the appropriate headspace gauges and the knowledge to use them properly. OR, if you're a poor boy, use the tire method. This involves getting an old tire and inserting the butt of the rifle into the inside with the forestock over the side of the outside. Tie the rifle down to the tire with twine (the nylon twine from hay bales works really well) where the stock crosses the side of the tire. Put another long piece of twine around the trigger, load the rifle, and get way back behind something (like a car or a big oak tree!) and pull the trigger. The tire will rock and roll, but your gun will be undamaged (unless the headspace was bad!) Do this as least three times. Carefully examine the brass for signs of blown primers, case head separation, split necks, or anything else that doesn't look normal. If the brass looks O.K., you should be good to go with your new bolt and can try firing a couple more holding it down and away pointed at the ground. If still O.K., you can fire from the shoulder. Always, always wear safety/shooting glasses. Gun Parts Corp. (845)679-4867. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
2 comments