Three Unrelated Questions
1) Pure copper bullets - significant advantage(s) or just a reason to spend more money? As if any of us needed one.
2)Pyrodex pellets - How do you load odd measures? For example, how would you load 65 gr. vs 50 (one pellet) or 100gr. (two pellets)
3)Is the field strip routine for a 1911 the same with a full length operating guide as it is with the standard length. Was told it was a bit different but was not told how so.
Thanks.
2)Pyrodex pellets - How do you load odd measures? For example, how would you load 65 gr. vs 50 (one pellet) or 100gr. (two pellets)
3)Is the field strip routine for a 1911 the same with a full length operating guide as it is with the standard length. Was told it was a bit different but was not told how so.
Thanks.
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ndbilly: I believe pyrodex pellets come in a 50 gr pellet and a 30 gr pellet, so you could use 2-30 gr for a 60 gr load or 1-50 and 1-30 for a 80 gr load or just about any combination you can think of . In my encore i use 2- 50's and 1 -30 for a 130 gr charge , it will get you close but if you want odd grain charges then you'll have to use loose powder 0 -
I have no personal experience with question No. 1, and I don't really think the jury is in on it--fairly new product.
No.2 got a pretty good answer from gskyhawk.
I'll take a whack at No. 3: Normal disassembly procedure for a 1911 is (after making certain that it is unloaded!) to push in the recoil spring cap and rotate and remove the barrel bushing; then to pull the slide back so that the dismounting notch lines up with the nub on the slide stop lever, push/pull it out to the left and remove the slide, barrel, recoil spring, and recoil spring guide forward off the frame. With a one piece recoil spring guide of most designs the recoil spring cap is permanently removed and it's place is taken by the tip of the one piece guide. Usually they can't be pushed inward which makes it impossible to rotate the barrel bushing, so you have to start by removing the slide stop lever and removing the slide, barrel, recoil spring and guide, and bushing all off the front as a unit and then removing the recoil spring and guide to the rear, then the bushing. There are many different designs, as a quick look in the Brownell's cataloge will reveal; and there are some variations on this theme. I personally subscribe to the two piece full length rods, some of which screw apart in the middle of the rod, and some of which screw apart by the rod screwing out of the guide's hood. In some cases there is a place for an allen wrench at the end of the rod, and others screw apart with finger pressure.0 -
I assume you're talking about hollow point bullets.
Copper is less dense than lead so for a given size, the copper bullet will be lighter and can be driven faster at the same chamber pressure.
Copper bullets will hold up to higher velocity without jumping the rifling.
Once opened up, the petals will be stronger than lead & thin walled jacketed bullets and sharper than lead or copper plated lead bullets.
Note the very large HP cavity which is needed to upset the stronger, tougher metal.0 -
v35...So for a given bullet weight the copper projectile will be physically longer, if I read you correctly?
My question is in the 180 grain and larger 30 caliber bullets would one want a slower barrel twist in a custom barrel if you KNOW you will be using solid copper, and heavier weight, bullets only??
Is it significant enough to change the rate of twist more than +/- 1?
SEMPER FI0 -
In question #1, If you are refering to the remington copper solid muzzleloader bullets. I can say that they are incredibly inaccurate, and do not expand reliably. When I did manage to hit a groundhog with one, it made the same size exit wound as it did entry, about 1/2" at 15 yards. Group sizes out of my knight were 8-16" at 100 yards, as compared to patched roundballs and solid lead minnies at 2-3". I suspect that they are simply designed to relieve shooters of money from their pockets. Coincidentaly, the roundballs make a chuck look like it was shot with a centerfire hollowpoint.
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?0 -
"would one want a slower barrel twist in a custom barrel if you KNOW you will be using solid copper"
NO, you would want a FASTER twist rate. If the standard (for that cartridge) is 1-10, than you might see better results with a 1-9 twist (note thats a "might"). Slower twists (like 1-12) are for the lighter (shorter) bullets.
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
Thank you all. Always learn more than I expect here. You guys should be teachers! 0 -
If on the other hand you are talking about the Barnes all copper bullets, they are of excellent quality and perform exactly as advertised. I have never had a failure with a Barnes unlike Noslers and Mag-tips. I shoot 165 grain Barnes boat-tail X .30 caliber bullets in both 1-12 and 1-10 twist barrels with no accuracy problems. I would recommend these bullets highly. 0
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