TORQUE on a Mauser Barrel?
How much torque should I expect to unscrew a small ring mauser barrel? Should I use a little heat? I had it over 300 ft lbs today, and no dice.
Thanks in advance,
rich
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?
Thanks in advance,
rich
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?
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richbug, that sounds like a tight one. What kind of action is it?Is is a M98 or a M93/M95/M96 type? If an M98, there is a crush against the diaphragm, or inner collar, and the rear face of the barrel. The barrel shoulder may or may not bear tightly against the front of the receiver, (or ring). If you're not trying to save the barrel, put the receiver/barrel in a lathe and cut the barrel shoulder at its juncture with the receiver until you've gone full thread depth and try it again. (Don't take any material off of the receiver.) This will remove all of the crush pressure on a M93 type but may not help on a M98. I don't recommend the use of heat. I've removed some barrels that were very tight but never have measured the torque required to break them loose. I suspect that I've had to exceed 200 ft-lbs to get some barrels loose, but I've always used a cheater bar on the wrench so don't have much of a feel for the actual torque applied. If that doesn't work you've got two choices, one is to put as much torque as is required to get it loose, or cut the barrel off and bore the remainder of the barrel out to the minor thread diameter and pick the rest of the barrel material out of the threads. Another thing you might try is to put a lot of torque on the wrench and have a friend tap on the wrench right at the receiver. Sometimes those slight vibrations plus a lot of torque will help break things loose.
There are no gaurantees on any of the above, use these suggestions at your own risk!
Good luck,
OleDuk0 -
The action is a 1916 spanish. The rifle was really good, but I didn't want to shoot it in .308 as I want to live to a ripe old age. I found a small ring .35 remington barrel thought I would undertake the project this winter and see what kind of trouble I can get into. I figure the 35000 pound 35 was a lot safer than a 55000 pound 7.62. I will just hang on the wrench and see what happens. I figured something was wrong when my workbench started moving. I that doesn't work, I think i might try to spontaneously disasemble the rifle with a full case of bullseye, a long string and a thick concrete wall. thanks for the input.
rich
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?0 -
Go down to your local Gunsmith and ask Him to show you a Mauser Barrel..and then compare the Breechend of the Barrels, Mauser and Remington Barrels are not compatable and the Threads are different also......You got a Lot of Machining work ahead of you...I had a man come thru the Door several years ago with Remington Barrel in Hand and wanted to change out Barrels on His 98 Mauser...A Buddy had told him it was No Problem...I still Have the Remington Barrel in my collection of Trash and Treasures and the Guy was totally Miffed because He has Used a Pipe Wrench on the Barrel and Twisted the Reciever beyond Saving....
Captain Kirk, Tech Staff0 -
the barrel is a small ring mauser barrel. I am not worried about hurting the action. I don't have much in it. It is safe in the vise in oak blocks I built to hold it.
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?0 -
richbug, I pulled the barrels from two of those rifles recently if you're talking about those that are said to be chambered for the .308. According to a letter I have from the NRA which answered my inquiry regarding suitability of using these actions for .308's, the answer was that they are intended for use with the 7.62 CETME which is essentially a reduced power 7.62 NATO loading. It does not develop the higher pressures that are developed by the .308.
The actions I un-barrelled had Guardia Civil marking (fasces) on the receiver ring and were in nice condition. The barrels came out without undue effort and I still have them (I think). The barrel threads are typical M93 Mauser, .980 x .645 shank dimensions, 12 TPI.
My opinion is that the actions are OK for a .35 Remington and other cartridges in that same range of pressures or slightly higher.
Capt. Kirks suggestions are right on.
OleDuk0 -
The easiest way to remove a tight barrel from a rifle (and Luger) is to count on sacrificing the barrel rather than twisting or buggering
the action. Make a 1/8" deep cut all around the barrel with a lathe or hacksaw that is about 1/16" away from the receiver face. This will release the compressive stress against the receiver face and the barrel will come out without excessive torque being applied.0 -
Guys,I've had much better luck with impact than staight torque.Making sure the barrelis tight in the bbl vice,a 24oz to 3lb hammer on the action wrench does the job for me.Good Luck,Roger(heckmanj@ptsi.net) 0 -
Alittle heat will break the loctite and you will be able to move with finger, Good luck
Frank J. Naeger0 -
Got it! I put it in a cold garage overnight, then warmed the action with a torch for a couple seconds. came out easy, maybe 100 pounds.
Thanks,
rich
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?0 -
quote:Originally posted by eun
Alittle heat will break the loctite and you will be able to move with finger, Good luck
Frank J. Naeger
That might be OK on a Remchester, but Mauser (and other quality gunmakers) don't use chemical bonding agents. They put them together the proper way, with precision fits on all parts.
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0
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