Update on Rem 1100 20 gauge firing problem...
Holiday Greetings to All. To those of you who haven't been following this thread, click on the link below to get 'up to speed'. I inadvertently posted this in the 'want ads' originally, so some of you may not have seen it before.
http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=138355
So here is the update on the 1100 20 gauge that wouldn't fire reliably in cold weather. Keep in mind that I had bought this at a local pawn shop earlier this month.
Went to Gander Mountain this afternoon and picked up a new hammer spring, hammer spring pin, and hammer washer, feeling confident that these new parts would solve my lightly dented primer problems. Drilled out the old hammer pin per fellow member BT99's very helpful instructions. When I removed the original 27 year old hammer spring (assuming it was the original?), I was very surprised to see that when placed alongside the brand new hammer spring, that they were both of the same length, approx. 1 3/4 inches long. I had expected the old spring to have compressed over time, and be much shorter than the new spring,hence causing the weak firing. Well, as many of you had predicted, the new hammer spring didn't make one bit of difference. Still just getting the lightest of dimples on the primer.
I was really disappointed after all that work. But one thing I noticed when I first disassembled gun is that it had a brand new action bar sleeve and action bar assembly. 100% of the blueing was present, and these bars are moving parts. I had already determined that the bolt assembly and firing pin movement seemed very adequate, so I turned my attention to the wishbone-like piece of metal (part is called a 'link' per the Remington parts list) between the action spring in the butt stock and the rear of the action bar. Then I noticed that the throat of the link is actually between the hammer and the firing pin once the action slams shut. Well, turns out that the hammer was 'twanging' on the throat of the link, instead of delivering all of its energy to the firing pin. This was my first experience with an 1100, and this was a rather unusual problem for a first-timer. I took a file and took off a small amount of metal at the throat of the link, so that the hammer could reach the firing pin without being impeded by the link. Apparently the old, worn link simply needed to be fitted to the brand, new action bar. I don't know if what I did was the proper or correct thing to do, or how a gunsmith would have fixed my gun, but now the hammer stikes the firing pin with authority. I suspect it will work fine now in subzero temps. Thanks for all the help, folks. The lesson here is be wary of pawnshop deals that seem too good to be true. The owner must have known that there was something wrong with the gun, as he let me have it for $200.
Later, Roland
http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=138355
So here is the update on the 1100 20 gauge that wouldn't fire reliably in cold weather. Keep in mind that I had bought this at a local pawn shop earlier this month.
Went to Gander Mountain this afternoon and picked up a new hammer spring, hammer spring pin, and hammer washer, feeling confident that these new parts would solve my lightly dented primer problems. Drilled out the old hammer pin per fellow member BT99's very helpful instructions. When I removed the original 27 year old hammer spring (assuming it was the original?), I was very surprised to see that when placed alongside the brand new hammer spring, that they were both of the same length, approx. 1 3/4 inches long. I had expected the old spring to have compressed over time, and be much shorter than the new spring,hence causing the weak firing. Well, as many of you had predicted, the new hammer spring didn't make one bit of difference. Still just getting the lightest of dimples on the primer.
I was really disappointed after all that work. But one thing I noticed when I first disassembled gun is that it had a brand new action bar sleeve and action bar assembly. 100% of the blueing was present, and these bars are moving parts. I had already determined that the bolt assembly and firing pin movement seemed very adequate, so I turned my attention to the wishbone-like piece of metal (part is called a 'link' per the Remington parts list) between the action spring in the butt stock and the rear of the action bar. Then I noticed that the throat of the link is actually between the hammer and the firing pin once the action slams shut. Well, turns out that the hammer was 'twanging' on the throat of the link, instead of delivering all of its energy to the firing pin. This was my first experience with an 1100, and this was a rather unusual problem for a first-timer. I took a file and took off a small amount of metal at the throat of the link, so that the hammer could reach the firing pin without being impeded by the link. Apparently the old, worn link simply needed to be fitted to the brand, new action bar. I don't know if what I did was the proper or correct thing to do, or how a gunsmith would have fixed my gun, but now the hammer stikes the firing pin with authority. I suspect it will work fine now in subzero temps. Thanks for all the help, folks. The lesson here is be wary of pawnshop deals that seem too good to be true. The owner must have known that there was something wrong with the gun, as he let me have it for $200.
Later, Roland
0
-
now youve learned the art of making good deals...good deals. the effort was still worth it. look what you learned.[;)] good luck! 0 -
I believe the approach you took was exactly what an experienced smith would have done....good job!!!
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
YOU SHOULD ALSO CHECK THE GAS SEAL/BARREL FIT. I HAD AN 1100 IN THE SHOP THIS FALL WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. AFTER SEVERAL NEW PARTS I FOUNG THE OWNER HAD INSTALLED A NEW GAS SEAL (RUBBER 'O' RING ON MAGAZINE TUBE) BUT INSTAEAD OF A REMINGTON PARTS HE GOT ONE AT THE LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE. IT WAS LARGER THAN THE ORIGINAL AND WOULD NOT LET THE BOLT/ACTION BAR ASSY GO FAR ENOUGH FORWARD TO LET THE HAMMER CLEAR THE YOKE. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
3 comments