10-22 aftermarket barrel
I have a SS aftermarket target barrel for my 10-22 with sporter stock. I have read some articles but nothing makes me feel comfortable doing this job myself, and all the articles have a different twist to the whole process. Can someone help me with this process...the ins and outs, cautions, dos and don'ts, etc.... I think I will go to a gunsmith for some advice and potentially for hire, but I would like to do it myself unless of course I fear messing up a new rifle. Thanks, Mark
MEW
MEW
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If your talking about replacing your barrel and stock, then all you do is take off your barrel band ,unscrew the screw that holds the stock to the barrel,remove stock.You will see two allen head screws underneath where the barrel mounts to the receiver,undo them and the peice that holds them together, pull barrel out slightly twisting if needed.Put new barrel on using the clamp and allen screws, mount new stock, and then screw the stock back to the barrel, and your done.
Teach them young ! Teach them often !
God bless America!0 -
The job almost takes less time than it takes to describe it. Very easy.
Only thing you can mess up is to torque the screws down too tight. Since you use an Allen wrench that can be easy to do. If you do you can break the V bar that holds the barrel in. Don't let that scare you since it is a cheap & easy part to replace. (Ask me how I know?)0 -
I realize I need to supply a little more info. I want to use my factory stock, and it is the full size wood sportster stock..without the barrel band. Going from factory barrel to aftermarket targer will require the barrel channel to be routed out. Some of the articles mentioned "bedding" the channel, and some didn't. Some mentioned the barrel being too heavy for the receiver. I talked to a gunsmith today who has done quite a bit of this type of work, and he said it is easy. There is no need for channel bedding, and the receiver will hold it fine. The new barrel will float sufficiently in the channel once it is routed. I have the tools to accomplish this task, but I don't want to mess a new gun up. The GS said he would charge $40 to $50 to accomplish this task. Now I think I have enough info...[:)]
MEW0 -
Maybe the gunsmith will supervise you doing the work and only charge you 20 bucks or so. You both win with that deal. 0 -
marksz71--What kind of aftermarket barrel did you purchase? 0 -
Hi Marksz71,
Don't route out your factory stock, its not worth it and neither is the bedding for the 10/22 because there is not that much vibration from a bull barrel .22LR. The money would be better spent on squaring off the bolt face to the chamber or a trigger job which are the real accuracy getters for the 10/22.
I interpret from what you said that you bought an aftermarket .920 inch target bull barrel.
Since the factory Ruger barrel is much smaller in diameter the usual fix is to also purchase an aftermarket stock made expecially for the .920 inch bull barrels. These stocks cost about $50.00 to $60.00, but there are some expensive ones also. However, most people do not route out their factory stock.
Here is a link to Midway for the oversize 920 stock:
http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/applications/esearch.exe/search
A better bang for the buck for the 10/22 is to spend another $50.00 for drop-in trigger job.
Below is photo of my .17HMR with custom Jarvis target barrel on a 10/22 Magnum receiver. I purchased a factory contour target barrel instead of the .920 bull barrel. Therefore, all I had to do was drop it in the factory stock. This gun also has a trigger job, extra-power extractor, bolt buffer, and 3-9x40 scope.
Regards,
Heavyiron[8D]
"If I don't see you nomore on this world, I'll meet you on the next one, and don't be late!" - Jimi Hendrix0 -
It is a GreemMountain 20" fluted stainless steel target barrel... .920...
I understand what you are saying about not routing the factory barrel and buying an overmolded aftermarket stock...I don't like to make things that easy. [:I] I like the checkered full size stock, and I think it will make an awesome looking rifle. If I could find an aftermarket stock like it, for a reasonable amount of money; I would buy it and do it all myself. The rifle is fairly easy to work on. In fact, upon advice from another 10-22 forum; I filed the rise in the bolt release mechanism, and it is much smoother! Works much better than factory... I am sure someone can relate to having a "vision" of what they want their rifle to look like...well I have my vision. I certainly appreciate the advice as that is what I came here for. I will start looking for another stock, but I don't want just a plane syn. stock. Keep the advice coming I and everyone else who reads this learns a lot. Thanks! Mark
MEW0 -
The stock I have is also referred to as the "deluxe". Not sure if that helps...[:I]
MEW0 -
I thought I saw the same question on RFC.
You could use sand paper around a dowel and sand it wider.0 -
The routing tool is easy to use, even by a novice. Go very slowly, testing fit after each couple of pulls. Frankly, I am lazy, and having done it both ways, I would rather purchase an after market stock, either Hogue overmolded or a Boyds laminated. In the end, if you rout your birch stock, it is still a birch stock (sounds like the Walmart version, like mine), I wanted an all weather rifle, but if you want a target gun, there are some fine stocks out there that will truely upgrade your rifle. Then for sure do the trigger job. 0
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