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Bolting a Gun Safe

Scubagtr
Hello all,

This is my first time posting on this site, but I have read everyone's advice for awhile on many subjects. It has been very helpful.

I have a question concerning a gun safe that I ordered. It's a Heritage safe 66x30x28, ~850lbs (Probably worth more than the stuff going in it (for the moment ;-)). The only place that it will fit is next to my reloading table in the garage. I plan on bolting it to the concrete floor, but had a few questions.

1 - What (if anything) should I put between the floor and the safe bottom.

2 - What types of bolts are the best, how to install them and how deep is good enough. Not even sure how deep the concrete is in a normal garage foundation.

3 - The dealer told me to leave it on the pallet, but I would think that wouldn't look as good, nor be as secure, as I don't want the bolts accessible to being cut.

Any advice would be appreciated from those of you who have gone through this. Thanks in advance.

Rickster
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • HAIRY
    scubagtr: You'll be getting some good advice shortly, but with respect to putting something under the safe, I'd suggest a piece of plastic. All you want to do is prevent the moisture in the cement from rusting out (eventually) the bottom. I did this and it works okay.

    volenti non fit injuria
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  • nmyers
    I think the dealers advice is good, But Hairy's method should work as well. Whatever method you use, make sure that it is somewhat elevated so that, if your garage is ever flooded, you won't be forced to move your safe to dry the bottom.

    I hate drilling/shooting into concrete to install bolts, but that's probably the best way. I prefer to run lag bolts into the wall studs behind the safe. After all, we're talking about a safe (& contents) that will require 4 sumo wrestlers to move.

    If you still feel vulnerable, a perimeter alarm system is probably worth considering.

    Neal

    "Just because you are paranoid, that doesn't mean that they aren't out to get you."
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  • gotstolefrom
    My install was indoors on a (1/4 inch) wood veneer floor that had been lain over the concrete (I did not pull the floor up for the area under the safe). Following the instructions, I put 3 bolts through the floor and two through the back. I drilled 3 inches into the concrete and used anchors for 3/8 inch galvinized lag bolts. (Drill a smaller 'pilot' hole in the concrete first. The small hole is fairly easy and will make the bigger hole for the anchors MUCH easier to drill.) I put 2 lag bolts through the back of the safe in the wall studs, as per the instructions, to make it more difficult to 'rock' the safe. Follow the instructions for the inside of the safe. Mine said use a 2-1/2 inch 'hole saw bit' to remove the interior materials, and use 2 inch washers on the bolts. Replace the 'plugs' of material and glue/seal with 'fireproof caulk' (found at Home Depot, for masonry fireplace repairs).

    I can't imagine anyone leave it on the pallet. That idea is really 'out there'.

    If you are in an area where water or other spills may get under the safe, you may want to put a healthy bead (or bed) of adhesive sealer under the safe. That would fill the spaces where liquids could remain by capilary action.

    Good luck and enjoy.... start saving for your next safe now. You will fill it up fast. (I had agreed to keep my wife's 'best jewelry' in the safe....it sounded good, but now we have more and more things that 'just can't be replaced'.)





    If we do not hang together,
    We will most certainly hang separately.
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  • bsally
    Put the safe on hockey pucks at all four corners. Drill your hole thru them and install your lag bolt into the concrete. Mine is on two. Should be high enough for minor water. Solves your water (potential) problem and makes VERY difficult to cut thru.

    SALLY
    Committee member-Ducks Unlimited
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  • dbrigham
    Love that hockey puck idea! Another good reason to raise an 850# safe is so, if you ever have to move it (God Forbid!), you can at least slide a dolly under it ....

    Si vis Pacem, Para bellum
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  • ContacFront
    Hmm, most of the safes I have looked at have no holes for mounting to the floor. I was always told that you do not want any holes in a safe what so ever in an event of a fire. Holes can allow a fire to "leak" iside of it and destroy the contents. The safe I have from Visalia Safes is double is a box inside of a box design with no holes for any type of mounting to the concrete. It weighs aboug 1750 empty, with all my gear. Id say over 2500lbs easy. I wouldn't worry so much about people actually taking the entire safe but more about fire protection.

    http://www.visaliasafes.com/
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  • j2k22
    when I have to bolt a safe to the floor that is elevated (wheels or a pallet ) I cut lengths of pipe to surround the exposed section of the bolt. The pipe can be any diameter. Makes it much harder to get a saw, bolt cuuter, or pipe wrench on the actual bolt.
    Not impregnable, but greatly increases the time and effort needed to attack the safe or remove it. Time and effort are usually in short supply when thieves operate.
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  • Scubagtr
    Thank you all for your input. Those are some really good ideas I haven't even thought of. I guess that's why we have a forum ... duh :-)

    Now I have to wait several weeks for it to arrive - bummer :-(

    Rickster
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  • rcarlboxer
    I lag stuff to concrete all the time, Hilti brand bolts and drill bits, you can probadly get them at Home Depot or Lowes,they come in all sizes and lenght's,I used half inch to lag my safe to the floor,
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  • Scubagtr
    What is the minimum depth a 1/2" bolt should go into the concrete?

    Rickster
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