FIRING PIN REPAIR ????????
I DON'T THINK SO!! I have several OBSOLETE .22 rimfire rifles with broken firing pins.The firing pins are broken[half in two] in the smallest area; ..is any way available to WELD the pieces together?These appear to be STAMPED flat steel about 1/8 thick [FLAT,with No machining] INFO appreciated
steve
steve
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Best to check www.gunpartscorp.com as they have a great deal of parts for most old/obsolete guns. A gunsmith or you might also try from steel from a machinery supply, but here you are guessing as to what type of steel to use and how to temper, as in www.use-enco.com
The problems with welding is you are dealing with very small parts and you are going to have a devil of a time keeping from disintigration problems, warpage and removal of tempering. The heat is localized and for varying distances from the repair it will have a different hardness. That, and usually, the weld will be very hard and the area next to the weld will break next. Brownells may also have pins that can be shaped to fit your particulargun(s) as generally they are flat steel in various widths.0 -
Much easier to just make a new firing pin if you cant find one commercially available.
What model rifles are these?
Scrappy Doo sleeps with the fishes.0 -
Find a workshop who does work in silver soldering.
There are silver solder materials that makes an incredible strong and resilient "weld".
The good thing is, you won't need to heat it up too much so it looses its tempering - and the excess material can easily be removed with a fine file or fine grain sandpaper.
I've used it on two firingpins in Greenland, one on a winchester 94 30-30win caliber that still sees a lot of hunting - he have the new firingpin in his cleaningkit, and the one I repaired is going on the third season of reindeer/caribou hunting now.
Don't do anything that I've allready done - That'd be just plain STOOOOOOPID.
The only way to get stoned??? - Whisky on the rocks.!!0 -
All of the above is good info to some extent. A flat firing pin is usually not too difficult to make. It may be possible to do a mig weld (or other weld) or silver solder. One item to correct is that usual silver soldering brings the item to a red heat. Red heat will destroy any temper. There is such a thing as low temperature silver solder, a solder that has a very little silver in it, that works at around 450 degrees F. That would not destroy temper but I would not consider the low-temp silver solder appropriate for that kind of job.
Been there - done that!0 -
Thanks Guys..I appreciate ya! COUNTRYGUNSMITH asked what model rifles..Both are Mossbergs..one is No.42 made1935-1937 and the other is No. 40 made 1933-1935
steve0 -
I just checked over on the e-gunparts (Numrich) site, they have a firing pin for the Model 42,for $25.75. They appear to be sold out on the Model 40 though.
Link here if interested:
http://www.e-gunparts.com/0 -
Thanks TalkingHead; I ordered parts from the good guys at Numrich,for the Mossberg 42,but they did not fit. I returned them with a tracing of the parts I needed,and they did not have. The parts listed on Numrich are for model 42A...My rifle is No.42 which is different. The boys at Numrich tried and even faxed me a schematic from a very old catalog,but no cigar.
steve0 -
Yes the good silver braze 60,000 tensile strength stuff needs the part heated up to around 1400-1700 degrees if I remember right to hold to the part so just before turning red in most cases or maybe it was 1200-1400 and brass braze was 1400-1700 aether way its getting really close to changing your parts hardness.
Ya its 1200-1400 pretty sure parts turn cherry at 1500 or so.
and notice I said braze, those are not solders there brazes.
But if you can make out using it its definetly the way to go you cannot break a weld that stuff makes, for class we did butt T and lap joins I took one of my lap joints put it in a firm vice and hit it with a 20 pound sledge right above the weld, it bent the metal didn't break the part I hit it like 4 more times after turning it, I still have it somwhere its pretty neat stuff.0 -
Probably a stamped piece of steel is a low carbon material without a lot of alloy components. I have silver brazed and bronze beazed lots of gun parts and tool parts. I prefer bronze. Do it like this: Heat the entire piece to red heat, flux the break, heat a bit more and braze it. Immediately drop it in water. This hardens it. Dry it off and heat 1 hour in the Toaster Oven at 500*. This tempers it. Now file off the extra brazing material. Before brazing, remove all oil and dirt from the broken surfaces.
You could weld them, using oxy-acetylene and a mildly reducing flame, and a mild steel rod, but unless you're real good at it and have a mini torch, there's a good chance you'll melt the piece. If you do weld, follow the hardening procedure above.0 -
upinye, check with Bob at www.gun-parts.com , if you don't see it listed, give him a call.
"Aim small...Miss small"0
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