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taurus titanium: concern of qlty/safety, cst.svc

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13 comments

  • fotomatt
    LET ME ALSO BE FAIR ABOUT THE ACCURACY OF THIS MODEL!

    I will tell you all that I am blown away by:

    1) Lightweight of this weapon
    2) Mellow kick for a gun this light!
    3) accuracy.

    I am able to hold an 8-10-inch group at 35 yards!

    So, in this regard I'm extremely impressed!



    from somewhere on Colorado's Continental Divide...fotomatt
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  • rldowns3
    I never had a problem with my Taurus Titanium and it's screws. However, I do share your experience in screws coming loose with some of my S&W pistols. It happens to my .44mag and .41mag when I shoot hot loads through it. I solved the problem on one of my guns by having the screw holes retapped for a different size and type of thread. I went with a tighter thread and they quit working their way out in recoil. On another gun I just slipped a little locktight around the screw head recess and it holds fine and I am still able to get the screws out when I need to. I probably wouldn't suggest the locktight to most people but it seems to work for me.

    kerrytraitor.jpgof our country.
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  • Raoul
    I've had screws work loose on a number of different firearms that I have. One of these was a Taurus 608 (the eight shot .357 built on the 44 frame) where the yoke screw would work loose. Several of my rifles have had scope mount/ring screws work loose. My 8 3/8" S&W 500 will shake the side plate and grips screws loose after 50 or so rounds.

    Probably the potentially most troublesome problem I've seen recently is with a buddy's 4" S&W 500 on which the screw for the compensator loosens up after 20 to 30 rounds. If you didn't tighten that screw periodically, you might send the whole thing down range.

    It seems to me that all of these are good candidates for the Lock-Tite treatment!
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  • fotomatt
    Thanks for the information.

    Finally, should I be concerned that the Yolk Screw problem damaged the cylinder assembly (i.e. bending or changing the angle as it rotates)? That had been my issue with Taurus Customer Service and the issue they failed/refused to address. Also, the CS manager assured me the gun had been test fired, but they failed to include the spent shell with the returned gun. Should I be concerned about this?

    Raoul:

    My 8 3/8" S&W 500 will shake the side plate and grips screws loose

    I'm guessing it also is capable of shaking a few tooth fillings loose, too!

    from somewhere on Colorado's Continental Divide...fotomatt
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  • Contender Man
    I think your main problem is the person you delt with. When you encounter this ask for the persons manager and keep doing that until you get someone that shows some "interest".

    I own a couple Taurus pistols, and over the years had many of them pass through my hands. With this brand as well as Smith, Colt, Ruger, and others ... screws occassionally loosen. Part of your maintenance routine should be checking the tightness of screws. The ejector rod is another matter ... shouldn't loosen that quickly. In over 40 years I've only had two cases of an ejector working loose.

    Accuracy wise, from a rest you should be able to improve that w/ a little practice. From a bag rest I can put every round on a 6 inch paper plate at 50 yards, and off hand, unless I do something dumb, I can park 'em all on a full size paper dinner plate.

    Lastly, the "blue" locktite is a viable alternative. I use it on my long guns scope bases and rings. It will just make disassembly of the revolver for detailed cleaning a little longer process, but only by a few minutes at most.


    9407288-Ti.jpg

    If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!
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  • fotomatt
    That IS the problem. The person I dealt with WAS the customer service manager. I think I'm going to call again and ask for someone higher than that. Honestly, I got the feeling I was dealing with a couple of people in a trailer or something.

    As for the ejector rod coming loose, YES! It completely doesn't sound right for this to come loose within 7 shots. And it doesn't seem safe, either. For that matter when I received the gun back, the first thing I checked was the ejector rod and it was loose!

    Time to start climbing the chain of command at Taurus, USA.

    I'll let you know how it goes.[:(!]

    from somewhere on Colorado's Continental Divide...fotomatt
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  • fotomatt
    oh...and the 8-10 inch grouping at 35 yards was one-handed! must be from the other shooting i do with all those heavy telephoto lenses! still...hope to keep improving my pattern!

    from somewhere on Colorado's Continental Divide...fotomatt
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  • boeboe
    Just my opinion, requesting a new gun because a screw came loose after 300 rounds is a bit much....

    To err is human, to moo is bovine.
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  • heavyiron
    I sympathize with your problem, but I feel compelled to say that screws shaking loose from the recoil impulse on a lightweight titanium revolver (or more conventional revolver) is not remarkable.

    Assume this: The revolver is probably 28 oz. (maybe less), firing a 158 grain projectile, at 1500 fps, resulting in a recoil impulse of about 20 ft/lbs. That is sharp my friend, and the gun is achieving a velocity of something like 27 fps in your hand.

    Unless the revolver is extremely well designed for high recoil impules like a Freedom Arms revolver where you are paying big $'s and has big recoil, don't expect a screw or two to not shake loose. Maybe even then some screws will work loose.

    The lightweight S&W Mountain revolvers are reported for "flexing" under recoil and rubbing the cylinder on the frame. Now this isn't a situation where a joint or screw is loose but the actual material (metal) is flexing because of the recoil impulse. There was an article in Handloader about year ago that discussed this. Also heavy recoil is what can eventually ruin a revolver by stretching the frame out of spec.

    I owned a Colt Python (which is both expensive and well made) and if heavy loads were used the barrel would begin to unscrew from the frame. My Ruger Super Blackhawk will shake the ejector rod housing loose when using heavy loads also. Even my SKS will shake the rings loose on the scope.

    Using a lightweight revolver exaserbates the problem of loose screws because the mass is not there to "soak" up the recoil because there is always a tradeoff of the basic physics. With a revolver like a Taurus Titanium, be prepared to check screws for tension often and make use of locktite. Also the use of reduced loads is often helpful in these revolvers.

    Regards,

    Heavyiron[8D]

    bullitt_county_4199_small.jpg
    "If I don't see you nomore on this world, I'll meet you on the next one, and don't be late!" - Jimi Hendrix
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  • fotomatt
    Thanks to all of you for your comments, help and education in this matter. Yes, it's a 28 oz. model (6") and yes, HeavyIron - I think your comments make a lot of sense. Also, hearing from everyone else about screws shaking loose in conventionally-designed revolvers puts this into perspective.

    One last question: is there any harm in using locktite on the extractor rod?

    Thanks again - [8]

    fotomatt...

    from somewhere on Colorado's Continental Divide...fotomatt
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  • rldowns3
    quote:Originally posted by fotomatt
    Thanks to all of you for your comments, help and education in this matter. Yes, it's a 28 oz. model (6") and yes, HeavyIron - I think your comments make a lot of sense. Also, hearing from everyone else about screws shaking loose in conventionally-designed revolvers puts this into perspective.

    One last question: is there any harm in using locktite on the extractor rod?

    Thanks again - [8]

    fotomatt...

    from somewhere on Colorado's Continental Divide...fotomatt


    I would not use locktight on the extractor rod as you take a chance of getting the rod "glued" to the cylinder. Just tighten it as best as you can (don't use vicegrips I know a guy who did) and check it to make sure it's still tight every so often.

    Something else you can do is completely disassemble the ejector rod assembly, wipe it down really good and make sure there is no oil in the threads that are lubricating the threads, hence making it easier for it to shake loose. Make sure the threads at least are nice and dry and then reassemble everything back to the frame and if necessary put just a tiny amount of oil or even better, graphite, on the ejector.

    As a last resort one time I used plumbers thread tape (you know that thin white stuff) on an ejector rod one time (just a tiny amount) and then screwed the rod back togeather and it never came loose again.

    kerrytraitor.jpgof our country.
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  • v35
    There are different types of Loctite. You want the non hardening kind.
    Aviation Permatex also works.
    Both screws and threaded holes have to be degreased with a solvent, like gasoline before using any of the above.
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  • fotomatt
    I think I will still attempt to speak with someone higher-up at Taurus. While I can understand the Yolk Screw shaking loose, the extractor rod has me bugged.

    According to most of you the extractor rod should definitely NOT work loose within 7 shots. This has happened from day 1, first 7 shots.

    I'm disillusioned to see the gun come back from Taurus with the extractor rod still loose - after I told them of the problem. And I have doubts that the gun was test fired as there was no spent casing with the return.



    ...from somewhere on Colorado's Continental Divide...
    - fotomatt
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