bobski
A week or two ago, you gave me some advice about a problem I was having with a High Standard, Supermatic Citation. You were correct...the problem was a rusted trigger pin and sear transfer bar "pin".
Your disassembly instructions were right on, and everything went smoothly until I tried to remove the sear bar from the trigger assembly. I would later find out that the sear bar "pin" was badly rusted in the trigger hole. None of the tweezers or tools that I had would work because there wasn't enough room (between the sear bar and the offset in the frame) to get a good purchase point near the "pin" end of the sear bar. That bar would not come out at an angle, it had to come straight out and I couldn't get enough of a grab to break the rust.
The point of this long story is to tell you about a trick that worked for removing the sear bar. Maybe (although I doubt it) you might not have thought about doing this. I used a dental explorer. Not the kind with the curved wire shepard's hook end, but the kind that has a straight wire shank with a point at the end of the shank that is 90 degees to the shank and about 3 mm long. You can tease the shank along side the sear bar. Then rotate the tool until the 90 degree tip slides under the bar pin where it enters the trigger hole. Now you can pull straight up on the dental tool to remove the sear bar.
The rest of the repair was easy. After cleaning everything up and applying some Break Free, it went back together without hassle.
I have a few extra of the dental tools I described. If you would like one , it would be my pleasure to mail one to you. It is the least I can do for all the help you have provided in this repair. Just let me know on this thread... I will provide my e-mail, you can e-mail me your home address.
Thanks, Jack
Your disassembly instructions were right on, and everything went smoothly until I tried to remove the sear bar from the trigger assembly. I would later find out that the sear bar "pin" was badly rusted in the trigger hole. None of the tweezers or tools that I had would work because there wasn't enough room (between the sear bar and the offset in the frame) to get a good purchase point near the "pin" end of the sear bar. That bar would not come out at an angle, it had to come straight out and I couldn't get enough of a grab to break the rust.
The point of this long story is to tell you about a trick that worked for removing the sear bar. Maybe (although I doubt it) you might not have thought about doing this. I used a dental explorer. Not the kind with the curved wire shepard's hook end, but the kind that has a straight wire shank with a point at the end of the shank that is 90 degees to the shank and about 3 mm long. You can tease the shank along side the sear bar. Then rotate the tool until the 90 degree tip slides under the bar pin where it enters the trigger hole. Now you can pull straight up on the dental tool to remove the sear bar.
The rest of the repair was easy. After cleaning everything up and applying some Break Free, it went back together without hassle.
I have a few extra of the dental tools I described. If you would like one , it would be my pleasure to mail one to you. It is the least I can do for all the help you have provided in this repair. Just let me know on this thread... I will provide my e-mail, you can e-mail me your home address.
Thanks, Jack
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I keep getting the two confused,is it Hamden or Hartford that has the best quality? Can you give me a list of plants from best to worst? Thanks. 
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interesting indeed! what makes those things so rare? 0 -
Don't know. I didn't even know they were rare. More people want them than people want to sell them, maybe? If you're a WWII collector it might be worth it. I'd just get a new one. 0
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