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determine value for any gun

cowartm
I'm a member of many forums (motorcycles, paintball equipment) and know that I'm probably asking the newbie question of the week [:I]
but I need to know where to get a feel for the value of a gun I might bid on...

I know, for example, a boat's value (unlike a car) can vary wildly and that there's no rule of thumb, but can I use the Blue Book (Fjestad) as a good place to get close? I'm not looking for collectables so it's all about 'modern' long rifles or maybe handguns. My choices will be somewhat limited since I live in the (not so)great state of CA.

Is there another guide that I should get or is the Blue Book a good place to start?

You all know why I'm asking... I buy a lot of stuff on ebay and see prices that are higher than retail for new items. A good gun is different, but I know people will ask for what people will pay - and why not. I've seen prices for Marlin 336's that are higher than new at local stores. Do they eventually lower the asking prices or do you just be patient and wait for a reasonable price? Prices seem especially off-base for older modern guns (marlin 78x, or 88x).

Don't want to p**s anybody off - just trying to get a feel for the marketplace.

Thanks.

Mark
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • Grasshopper
    As far as the "blue book" , there are guns that they price that I WOULD love to BUY THEM AT .....BUT MANY MANY OTHERS that will not come close to their "value",, in my experience. Haven't bought any guns from G.B. , but many from shops and individuals,,,basically think of what you would pay for the item and go from there.. imo. anmbu
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  • 1KYDSTR
    I've always found that looking at closed bidding on similar/identical items will help you determine about what to bid. Always remember handguns cost at least $35 to ship, and Longguns are in the $20 to $25 range; allow for this. I have lots of books, but most are there to help me with visual identification and variants, not so much as a price guide. You are best off (as all these books are molto spendy) using the search feature under closed auctions on this or other auctionsites.

    "When I cease learning...I'm dead"(Me)
    "When I was 14 I used to marvel at how ignorant my old man was...by the time I was 21 I was truelly amazed at how much the old bugger had learned in the intervening 7 years!" Samuel Clemens
    "History is written by winners"(Patton)
    "You get a lot farther with a kind word and a gun than you do with a kind word alone!"(Al Capone)
    "There is nothing lower than the human race...except the French" (Samuel Clemens)
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  • TWalker
    The "Standard Catalog of Firearms", comes as close as any I've seen to the real value or selling price of firearms. Still, it or any guide is just that, a guide. The value is in reality what you are willing to pay or can sell a gun for. If a gun store or pawn shop keeps a gun for over 30 days, it is overpriced in my opinion and needs a price reduction. Don't be afraid to negotiate on prices. Ask what their "best" or lowest CASH price is. Normally 10-20% below the marked price. Attend gun auctions and look at guns in every pawn shop you can visit, then compare the prices to those in a price guide. Like everything else, you can't beat experience. Take an experienced gun buyer with you to a shop and have him evaluate every displayed gun's price as low, high, or about right. Back to the "Standard" catalog, I try to buy excellent condition guns at or below the good or even the fair condition price. If I can do that, I don't hesitate to buy. Don't buy guns in poor condition. Look for excellent guns that the seller "needs" to sell. Poor condition guns are rarely a bargain. Good luck on your search. Put in some time and research, and find a good price guide to help you.
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  • Iroquois Scout
    It has been my experience that if you are only interested in modern firearms, you most often will do better on price locally then on the auction sites unless what you are after is rare or unusal. At auction you have to figure in not only the price, but, also the shipping and transfer costs. These costs will often raise the cost to you above that which you would pay at your local gun store.
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  • cowartm
    quote:Originally posted by Iroquois Scout
    It has been my experience that if you are only interested in modern firearms, you most often will do better on price locally then on the auction sites unless what you are after is rare or unusal. At auction you have to figure in not only the price, but, also the shipping and transfer costs. These costs will often raise the cost to you above that which you would pay at your local gun store.




    I'm seeing just that... By the time I add $50 - $75 for the transfer I'm almost to a local dealer's cost. And I try to support the local dealer whenever I can if it makes sense. Before the internet they were the only 'experts' we had access to and I think they deserve a little extra for that support. How many people do they spend 30 minutes showing firearms to for one that buys. I used to call it kissing frogs before getting a prince....

    Mark
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  • nmyers
    You have a good feel for how market conditions work. Even though the Blue Book of Gun Values & the Standard Catalog of Firearms will help get you close to the IDENTITY & book value of a gun, determining the actual market price will require work from you.

    Guns are unlike your other areas of interest in that there is a huge group of gun show & Internet "sellers" out there who engage in "wishful thinking". They post asking prices that range from ridiculous to obscene, & their wares stay on the market for years without being sold. Rarely, they get a suc-, I mean "customer", who is ignorant enough to pay their price, but YOU don't want to be one of those.

    Your best defense is to do a SmartSearch of Gunbroker completed auctions, & see what folks actually paid for similar guns. (Or, their top bid, if the items was not sold.)

    Neal
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  • yoshmyster
    I too live in California. After the DOJ came out with their licensing scheme in 2002 I stopped buying hand guns but I still look. Those choice Seattle marked Scoremasters with 6 inch barrel new or almost new in box. If that ever came up at a right price I'll go and jump through the hoops again. Take the new improved Basic Fire Arms test (which is the same ones that was supposed to have been good for lifetime until 2002 whichever came first) this is only good for five years like getting a driver's license. Also, I'll have to have a friend bring the Scoremaster to me to do the FFL (even though it's just a .45 but not safe according to the state since they didn't get their cut from the manufactures). Just waiting for the Person to person transfer to be phased out then I'd be screwed and I'll be moving to Oregon.

    I'd do as 1KYDSTR stated until something in your price range came up. After all the wallet is the all telling limiter. But you'll find a bargan every now and then at the local shop. So, timing is also important and stay away from the "in" thing since that'll cost you. Then again you can't get much in California, Mini-14, SKS, and whatever handgun paid their dues.
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  • competentone
    Besides checking completed auctions; I'd also suggest picking up an issue of Shotgun News and/or Gun List from your local newsstand.

    I find the local dealers in my area are usually significantly higher with their prices on new guns than many of the dealers on GunBroker -- even when including the shipping and a reasonal transfer fee. Of course the same local dealers won't do a transfer for me from a GunBroker auction or Shotgun News -- I guess they expect that I'll pay their "suggested retail" prices instead??? Ends up being just a missed opportunity for them to make an easy $20-$30.
    "Strength is the outcome of need; security sets a premium on feebleness." -- H.G. Wells (The Time Machine)
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  • only winchesters
    Good moring cowartm! Welcome to the forum! That's a good question. I think one of the things you have to keep in mind is the "Blue Book", "Standard Cat. Of Firearms" are good reference, but they are a snap shot in time. Meaning if you buy todays edition, that info is from 2002, or possibly 2001. As others have said, looking at closed auctions, they are current. (well within the last 90 days, possibly). One thing about the books, I don't think someone would sell there gun for much less than what the book says it's worth, assuming they used one.

    The guns geographical location of the firearm is important. Some areas certain makes and models are real popular, in other areas they aren't. The books don't take that into account. Also a Gunshops location! I follow pre-64 Winchester shotguns real close. An example: there is a dealer who is from La Mesa, CA. (Down near the Mexican border) He's been trying to sell some Winchester Md 12s hear for about a year, his problem is his starting price is about 25-50% more than the "books" and what others are selling for on the net. Although rare to his shop, not rare on the net. Plus he certainly didn't do a auction history search, or a net search to see what they are going for. He most likely will never sell them here.

    As for new guns: Well that's interesting too! I see dealers here add there 10-25% to what they paid for it, and start their bidding there. Usually no great deal there. Dealers who have to buy from a distributor, versus directly from the manufacturer usually don't have any better deals than your local shop. A good example: Wal-Mart buys directly from Remington, your local shop may buy from a distributor. He can't compete with Wal-Mart on the price.

    I think the main thing to keep in mind, is buying a firearm is simalar to buying a car. Meaning new or used, the price is not set in stone. If there is a gun in a local shop thats been there for more than 30 days, the dealer isn't making any money! No interest on it as it sits in the rack!! How much will they deal, some, maybe alot you don't know until you try. Don't insult the guy with an offer of only 50%, but 5-15% can usually be had. (unless it's already on sale).

    The last thing to keep in mind is the economy! When it's been poor, like the last few years, not a lot of people spending their money, for a buyer, this is a good time, more deals can be made. When the economy is hot and everyone is spending, the deals become fewer and far between.

    Regards Dave
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  • river
    Blue Book is the best place to start for reference but it really comes down to what someone will hand over for the gun - good shooting
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