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Stock finishing with Linseed Oil

Cannon Ball
A friend of mine has a Marlin Model 19 shotgun his wife bought at a garage sale for $10.
The gun is in fair condition with some minor parts missing which we have purchased and installed.

The major problem is that the forend is missing. After several weeks of searching, I have concluded that these forends are near impossible to find in useable condition. I did purchase two broken ones which I used as a guide and fabricated a new forend from a piece of black walnut I have had for 50 years.

Not meaning to bore the Experts with the above; my question is how do I finish the new forend with linseed oil or boiled linseed oil?

Some additional research indicated that the shotgun is probably 80 to 100 years old and the most likely original finish on the stock and forend was linseed oil. My intention is to have a forend that is as close to the original as possible. Thanks for your help and No the gun will never be fired!
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Comments

8 comments

Date Votes
  • Ray Boone
    Oil finishes are type that I prefer. I useually do most of the prelimary coasts with linseed, then the final coats with Tung oil. There is a fast method, called Linspeed Oil, that works well, but if you want to use regular hardware store Linseed Oil, the initial stage is to soak enough into the wood that the pores are filled. Heating the stock to slightly over 100 degrees speeds this process. I soak the would thoroughly, let the oil dry until it has something of a crust, then 000 or 0000 steel wool, remove the crust. Repeat this process until the pores are leveled with oil. Then put a few drops of Tung Oil and rub so that a thin coating covers the stock. After this very thin coat dries, buff with cloth and repeat. Stop when the finish is to the point that you are satisfied.
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  • gotstolefrom
    I have used boiled linseed oil on my milsurp gun furniture for a long time. Just keep rubbing it on until it quits soaking in. As you probably know, linseed oil really never 'hardens' or 'dries', it just quits soaking in. You may have a 'sticky stock' for a while.

    I have found another rub on finish that you can use to get a finer looking finish, anywhere from 20% better than a linseed finish to a deep hand rubbed, rich, hard finish. The brand name is WATCO finishing oil. Unlike linseed oil, this will 'dry' to a harder finish after a few days. You should clean, sand, fine sand, and 000 steel wool rub your wood to get it ready. Rub the WATCO in by hand, let it dry overnight, 0000 steel wool, then another coat of WATCO, wool, watco, wool, watco. Stop when you have the finish you want. I just rub it in with my hands for the last few coats, since not as much soaks in after the pores are sealed. You won't have a cheap looking poly coat finish, or a flat linseed finish, you have a semi-gloss hand rub finish that is as deep as you want to keep rubing.
    It is my finish of choice for restoring older pieces. Enjoy




    If we do not hang together,
    We will most certainly hang separately.
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  • nmyers
    I usually add a little mineral spirits to the BLO or tung oil; that prevents "sticky stock".

    Use all these finishes outdoors, & wear rubber/vinyl gloves. The solvents they contain are readily absorbed through the skin, & they are toxic, carcinogenic, & mutagenic.

    Neal
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  • asa
    I've finished a lot of stocks and found that Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil works best-at least for me. I dilute it about 30-70 with mineral spirits and add whatever stain needed. I hand rub each coat until it feels dry(it really isn't) and then let the stock dry for at least 24 hrs. 0000 steel wool the first couple of coats and then add as many as you want. I've done as few as 3 and as many as 7. If the final finish seems too shiney, just use rubbing compound to get the desired effect.
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  • john carr
    Ditto on the BC Tru-Oil. It's not just for gunstocks. I re-finished two kitchen clocks with it and they look great.
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  • gogolen
    I used the tru oil on a stock not too long ago and finished with a quick rub down with 0000 steel wool and rubbed with bore butter came out great.
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  • Cannon Ball
    Thanks to All for the info. Too duplicate the original finish I think I will try the boiled linseed oil with an added drying agent and stain. If that does not work, I'll use a tung oil. I've finished many gun stocks using Tru-Oil, Watco, and Formby's with equal success.

    Ed
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  • nmyers
    Staining is another subject. For gunstocks, you should first apply an oil based stain, such as Fiebings; Brownell's also has an oil based stain. (Most others are water based.)

    Neal
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