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Engraving/Etching/Marking Steel

boeboe
I am wondering what the best way a home hobbies has to mark a steel plate, via etching or engraving or such. Should be a means to be at least a little bit artsy, engrave or etch a name and numbers for theft protection, in a manner that will look professional.

To err is human, to moo is bovine.
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Comments

12 comments

Date Votes
  • rhmc24
    I hate to see postings go unanswered and I don't want to sound preachy, so here goes. It would help to know what you mean by "best way". I have experience in both engraving and etching and neither is best. It depends on what kind of result you want. If your question is from a "do it yourself" viewpoint, unless you are an extremely talented fast learner it is unrealistic to expect professional results. If you mean to hire a professional, I would suggest talking to some of them and get their ideas about how to deal with your goals. I don't take on jobs but I will be pleased to exchange email trying to help, best direct off this forum. rhmc24@swbell.net
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  • perry shooter
    Hello I like the answer above can't give you the BEST way but be aware that If you want to have a way of I D you do have serial # if you put your I D on a firearm it will have 2 things that you might want to think about If stolen the thief will probable grind it off and if you ever want to sell it will never bring as much money as if it would before you put extra # or name on it. Take the butt plate off and put a paper with your name there most thieves will not go thru the trouble to look.
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  • Iroquois Scout
    What I do with my early American muskets is to take off the butt plate and then I staple one of my business cards to the wood and then put the butt plate back. I doubt that crooks would bother to look under the butt plate for id markings and the musket and it's value are not harmed.
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  • James Ayers
    [8D]They will now![:D][:D][:p][:p]

    On your mark-get set- go away!!
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  • Hangfire
    BoeBoe- On occasion I have had inscriptions engraved or stamped on firearms. My local jeweler has done an excellent job...!

    Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
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  • Rembrandt
    You really didn't say if the metal was firearms.....I'd recomend letter and number stamps. These work very well on thicker pieces of metal, too thin and it deforms the object you're marking. Special order steel stamps can be obtained with decorative or basic block lettering.
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  • black_adder2
    As far as stamping basic name or company logo to metal, you can try Brownells (check google not sure of website) or other gunsmithing supply sellers. I shudder at reccomending Brownells, everytime I call I get the worst salespeople on a bad hair day.

    Joe
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  • only winchesters
    Good morning boe! Several methods I've seen and used. The easiest would to be a good set of "steel stamps". You can pick up a number set 0-9, if you want more you can buy a letter stamps. Depending on the surface, there are some tricks to keep the stamp from bouncing and leaving a double impression. One being a lead head mallet, versus a regular hammer. The other method would be "acid etch". All that is required, is a typewriter, special paper and some acid. Most metal platers do this. Check with some in your area. Regards Dave
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  • cgs500
    Just my two cents: When you use stamps remember that you are displacing metal. Using a "deadblow" hammer will minimize the double impression but remember, you can still bend, collapse, and distort the surface and what is behind it (ie. actions). This will not only effect the value of the firearm but the function as well. You can also look into chemical, laser, acid as well as mechanical etching.
    Engraving is something I personally wouldn't try on anything of value, but hey thats just me.

    Good luck!
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  • mazo kid
    One method I have used with fair results is the one listed in Dixie's catalog; coat the heated surface with beeswax, cool and then use a ball point pen to draw your design, name, whatever. Make a dam around the area with modelling clay and put an acid on the surface. let it stand, checking occasionally for the result you want. I have used a mild nitric acid solution, but possibly battery acid would work too and that is readily available at battery shops. Be extremely careful not to get any acid on anything but the surface you want to etch! Emery

    "Well done is better than well said"
    Ben Franklin
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  • cgs500
    Mazo is right, in the tool and die trade we use a similar method using a harder wax that cracks when it cools. We etch the die to get the wrinkle finish you find on dashboards, satellite dishes, and such.
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  • boeboe
    Thanks everyone!

    To err is human, to moo is bovine.
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