how to remove paint from checkered furniture?
I bought an old remington shotgun the other day my old man is going to restore it for me, anyway to get to the point. It has a checkered stock and forearm that some bubby painted black. i dont know what type of wood is under it but im guessing walnut? What is the best way to remove the paint? Is their a chemical stripper i could use that wont affect the wood? i dont mind sanding what i can, but how do you get it out of the checkering?
I've always followed my father's advice: he told me, first to always keep my word and, second, to never insult anybody unintentionally. If I insult you, you can be damn sure I intend to. And, third, he told me not to go around looking for trouble.
John Wayne
I've always followed my father's advice: he told me, first to always keep my word and, second, to never insult anybody unintentionally. If I insult you, you can be damn sure I intend to. And, third, he told me not to go around looking for trouble.
John Wayne
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I'd measure the spacing on the checkering, and get a tool to match. Recutting will 1) get rid of the paint, 2) clean up most of any damaged points and 3) improve the appearance of the (most likely) pressed factory checkering. 
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
You can first use a chemical paint remover that does NOT require a water rinse.Any hardware store will have a methylene chloride based stripper. For application, pick up a natural bristle brush that won't be dissolved by the stripper.Pick up some lacquer thinner to use to flush off the lifted paint and stripper residue.This will not raise the grain like water will.Those little metal handled 1/2" wide glue brushes can be used to scrub the checkering.To sharpen up the checkering I use a curved checkering file from brownells..
www.brownells.com
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
Try spraying it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and brushing it. Do this in a WELL VENTILATED area as the brake cleaner is extrememly volatile!!!!
If that doesn't work, try the paint remover as mentioned above. As a last resort, sand it off.
John
The original point and click interface was made by Smith & Wesson0 -
Toothbrush and Lacquer thinner. Is the checkering cut or pressed?
"Aim small...Miss small"0 -
The experts use Easy Off oven cleaner. I have done it many times. Just spray it on and let it remove the paint and varnish. Let it set as it will pull oil from the stock that has run down when people stand them up over time. Then rinse it with clean water on a towel and let it dry. 0 -
thanks fellas. much appriciated im sure with the info you guys provided the paint come off one way or the other !
I've always followed my father's advice: he told me, first to always keep my word and, second, to never insult anybody unintentionally. If I insult you, you can be damn sure I intend to. And, third, he told me not to go around looking for trouble.
John Wayne0 -
Heed Hangfire's warning about using water. It will swell the wood fibers and plays hell getting an even stain. Use Lacquer thinner and a toothbrush on cut checkering and a soft bronze or brass brush on pressed checkering.
"Aim small...Miss small"0 -
Thank-you Trap....I was just getting ready to restate that caution on using water after reading about that"Easy-Off" cleaner...used by experts???xx(Also test the tooth brush to make sure it doesn't dissolve in the thinner.I use them all the time,but some will soften up.
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hangfire
Thank-you Trap....I was just getting ready to restate that caution on using water after reading about that"Easy-Off" cleaner...used by experts???xx(Also test the tooth brush to make sure it doesn't dissolve in the thinner.I use them all the time,but some will soften up.
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
Water only swells wood if you leave it in water! I don't see where I said Soak in water!
This has been done for years, So much so that it was given a section in the American Rifleman. Thinner will not all come out after it has turned to a vapor it leaves a residue behind. Your finish will fish eye in about a week from it. It will push its way to the top and ruin your work.
I have done over 50 stocks with Easy Off. Not one has come back with any problems. They still look new minus normal dings and dents.
"By the way all wood has Moisture in it"0 -
Oh, thank God, from the original posted topic, I was afraid I'd wandered in to a Martha Stewart forum. 0 -
Thank-you Mr. Muffin.
Mauser....after 40 plus years of woodworking, I would still not put "Easy Off" on any checkering!!!!
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
what i have used in woodworking is a spray stripper called peeler by kleenstrip, brush out wit ha stiff toothbrush or for the tough stuff go gently witha dental pick. When everything is removed wipe the area down with mek and then finish, i have never had a problem with this method. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hangfire
Thank-you Mr. Muffin.
Mauser....after 40 plus years of woodworking, I would still not put "Easy Off" on any checkering!!!!
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
The problem with using brushes on checkering is it wears the sharp cut points down. Most people have real problems recutting checkering patterns after they wear it down, They end up screwing the factory detail. You need a hand full of tools and a good steady hand to keep it just as it was done.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Muffinman
quote:Originally posted by Hangfire
Thank-you Mr. Muffin.
Mauser....after 40 plus years of woodworking, I would still not put "Easy Off" on any checkering!!!!
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
The problem with using brushes on checkering is it wears the sharp cut points down. Most people have real problems recutting checkering patterns after they wear it down, They end up screwing the factory detail. You need a hand full of tools and a good steady hand to keep it just as it was done.
Thanks again for the heads-up.
Trap....where are you??????[8D]
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0
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