S&W 1006 KABOOM
Dou you consider the 1006 to have a fully supported chamber, Have you heard of anyone having case failures at the feed ramp? I had an incident over the weekend, and am a little curious. I already contacted Hodgdon, It was a starting load loaded on a single stage press. 10 out of 35 rounds had some sort of failure, from a crack to complete removal of the case head(I stopped shooting after I realized what was happening). I have used this same ammo in my revolver for quite a while with no problems.
My border collie is smarter than your honor student.
My border collie is smarter than your honor student.
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Yes, I consider the S&W 10xx series to be fully supported. Personally, I consider them to be one of the strongest 10mm auto's made except for maybe those LAR conversions. I certianly don't mean to belittle your reloading (as the problem might not have been your fault). However, in my experience if you've blown up a S&W 10mm with reloads then most likely something happened (wrong powder, double charge, bullet seated incorrectly, etc). Those S&W 10mm's are built like a tank!
The 10mm - either you've got it, or you don't get it...0 -
What bullet weight, what powder and what charge?
Chris8161
Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof!
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I Wrote Hodgdon about the Problem, Load was a starting load, 200fmj, 7.5grs of longshot, win LP, 1x win brass.
This is the letter I sent hodgdon:
I have read all the warning over the years about unsupported chambers in a .40 S&W. My question to you, Are S&W chambers considered unsupported? and does the 10mm have the same problem as the .40.
The problem come from My load, which I have used for a few years in My S&W 610 revolver with no problems, 7.5 gr of Longshot(which figures to 10% under max), a 200 grain Berrys fmj, and a WLP in a win case. Identical to your published data with the exception of the bullet substitution.
I recently puchased a S&W 1006 Auto. I handled all the ammo I threw at well, A box of Corbon +P, A box of federal HP's, and a couple boxes of Winchester Silver tips, and a box of factory Remanufactured, with no problems.
I then started proceeded to try my handload in it, I fired a couple magazines, and had an ocassional round that sounded "different" and then I have one which went bad. Upon firing the case head separated completely, and blew the floorplate out of the mag along with the remaining ammo and removed the left grip panel. The pistol ejected the case head, but the body of the caseing remained in the chamber.
Upon inspection of the brass, 9 of 35 fired cases I recovered were ruptured at the feed ramp, in addition to the one still in the barrel.
I attribute my not being injured to the robust pistol Which S&W produced, and fear that if I had been a Glock I would be called "Lefty" now.
Any input would be appreciated.
Richard martin
My border collie is smarter than your honor student.0 -
If you want hot loads try Doubletapammo.com.
Remember that the .40 S&W is based off the 9mm frame whereas the 10mm frame is a different beast. As far as being supported, if you were just loading marginal loads you would end up with a "smile" casing. Meaning that the very small part that wasn't supported bulges ever so slightly (but still noticeable) like it does in the Glock 20/29. I have fired quite a few of Doubletap's loads which are NOT +P (there's actually no designation for +p for the 10mm) but while within SAAMI specs, they are still very hot.
The easy way to tell if a barrel is supported, take it out of the gun, put a loaded cartridge in it and see if it's completely covered to the rim (or in the case of a rimless cartridge like the 10mm - 'til the extractor groove).
I have two Glock 10mm's (G29 and G20) and two S&W's (1006 and 1076 and I'm buying a 1026 as I type this) and I've owned many more of each of these in 10mm over the years. I completely trust Glock. No, I won't go loading over specs (if I did handload) but I shoot hot factory stuff. I trust 'em just as much as the S&W to prevent an explosion. However, once one occurred - you are probably correct in assuming the S&W contained it much better than the Glock would.
I don't think there's a 10mm auto made that's as strong as your 610. I've seen some of them reamed out to 10mm magnum without any other modifications. They are stout guns...
I don't know much about reloading, but from what I have heard from all the 10mm reloaders is that Starline brass is the strongest.
The 10mm - either you've got it, or you don't get it...0 -
Hodgdon blamed it on having fired the brass in my revolver previously, something to do with the web stretching because it is headspacing on the rim, when the case is designed to headspace on the mouth. I guess I will have to keep separate brass for the two guns. Maybe nickle for the revolver and brass for the autos. The loads have worked in my Para-ordnance well also, but it uses a Clark type ramp and completely supports the case, or at least much more than the Smith.
My border collie is smarter than your honor student.0 -
That makes sense.
Chris8161
Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof!0 -
I had the same problem many years ago with the .30 M1 Carbine. I had a General Motors M1 Carbine and a Thompson Center Contender chambered for the same. Every time I shot reloaded M1 ammo in my contender, the case would crack or even separate at the web. Factory (or GI surplus) ammo worked fine.
I wrote Thompson about it, and they said exactly the same thing. In the M1 carbine, the case headspaces on the taper of the case, in the TC, it headspaced on the rim. Ammo fired through the Carbine allowed the case to stretch excessively at the web area, thereby weakening the case, whereas ammo fired in the TC was more supported.
I ended up having to segregate the cases.0 -
One other thing that is a possibility is that your crimp may not be holding the bullet tightly enough to keep it from backing into the case during recoil. Starting loads in 1X fired cases shouldn't KB!
Unless the cylinders are so oversized on your revolver that you have to strain to resize the brass. Since autoloaders generally headspace on the case mouth on rimless rounds, you should try to get enough crimp to tightly hold the bullet; but still have case mouth diameter enough to chamber.
"Qui non est hodie cras minus aptus erit" --OVID0
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