What to do with pitted barrels (exterior)?
I'm refinishing an old rifle that has some fairly severe pitting on the exposed portion of the rifle (the parts covered by the wood and the action were fine). I have stripped it already and used an 80-grit flap-wheel on my dremel and went as slow as it would go to avoid excessive heat and got all the surface rust off, but now there is still those little pits, though I have got all the finish and rust from the bottom of them.
My question is if I refinish it like it is it'll look pitted and poor quality won't it? Since the pits are probably only a hundredth of an inch or so deep and this is on a .22, should I sand it down to the point of removing all the pits? If I do this, what's the best method? I've got numerous hand-held power sanders (belt sander, 4" pad sander, dremel tool, etc) or should I use a more course paper and do it by hand?
Another thought I had was to brown the barrel instead of blueing it, but I think it'd look kinda goofy on a .22. Especially since it has some plastic parts that have a psuedo-blue finish.
Any suggestions guys? Thanks in advance!
My question is if I refinish it like it is it'll look pitted and poor quality won't it? Since the pits are probably only a hundredth of an inch or so deep and this is on a .22, should I sand it down to the point of removing all the pits? If I do this, what's the best method? I've got numerous hand-held power sanders (belt sander, 4" pad sander, dremel tool, etc) or should I use a more course paper and do it by hand?
Another thought I had was to brown the barrel instead of blueing it, but I think it'd look kinda goofy on a .22. Especially since it has some plastic parts that have a psuedo-blue finish.
Any suggestions guys? Thanks in advance!
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bambihunter: First off you shouldn't use "sandpaper" crohcus cloth or emory cloth is designed for metal. (spelling on those may not be correct) Pits can be like an iceberg, you can chase them forever, because you only see the tip. Get yourself an extra fine draw file, and use that. Then polish the area with the crohcus or emory cloth.
Regards Dave0 -
From my experience I get it cleaned up as best as I can and then do whatever I'm going to do to it as far as a finish and then keep it oiled. Providing the inside of the barrel is good I'll shoot it a few times and then oil it up again until the next time. Like only said, you may have to take it down too much to hit bottom.
PJ
If nobody seen you do it, how could you have done it. NRA Endowment Member, AF&AM0 -
I would start out using fine emery cloth with oil.... then use crocus cloth with oil for polishing.
Dave0 -
First of all, Do what Dave said. Then when you have the pits removed to your liking finish it off with a #000 steel wool.
FYI some pitting may not show up once you've oiled it. It has been my experience that the more you polish the steel the more the pits will show, so don't polish too much with the steel wool unless you remove all but the finest pits.
As far as how deep can you safely go. I wouldn't be too concerned about it with a .22 because the barrels tend to be a little on the heavy side anyway and there isn't as much barrel pressure as other caliber rifles. Just try to keep it uniform around the barrel.
"There are those who make things happen, those that watch things happen and those that say, what happend?"
AC Tactical0 -
Bead blast it. Use sugar instead of glass beads and it leaves a nice satin finish after it is blued.
"Aim small...Miss small"0 -
Vapor de-grease the metal portion of the rifle that has pitting, sand blast pitted area only, and then use fine oil stones to remove pits and to blend with contour or item being repaired. Re-vapor degrease or use brake cleaner at this point then palte with your preference. 0
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