barrel leading
I reload hard-cast lead and don't push the pressure limits, however after several hundred rounds on the range my barrels began to lead up. Am wondering what cleaning solution might be available that I'm not aware of. I clean with Hoppes #9, and Hoppes copper cleaner.
With all of you "cowboy action" shooters, what do you use to clean barrels? Don't mind cleaning my weapons, just don't care to spend as many hours cleaning as shooting.
With all of you "cowboy action" shooters, what do you use to clean barrels? Don't mind cleaning my weapons, just don't care to spend as many hours cleaning as shooting.
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I have a leading problem with my Model 17 22lr. Lead is evident in the last inch or so of the barrel and I can't remove it. I have a device which works well in larger calibers but is too small for the 22. Any thought gentlemen? 0 -
Hello you don't state what kind of LUBE you are useing on your bullets some bullet casters use stuff that is not much better than candle wax . Try some RED ROOSTER over the lube that is on them now or get old stuff out and use 50/50 alox /beeswax.A good barrel does not lead as mutch as rough one. Clean and then polish with J.B.BORE CLEANER quote:"PRAISE THE HARDBALL GUN" 0 -
Shoot a few jacketed bullet after shooting lead, makes your life a lot easier.
My border collie is smarter than your honor student.0 -
Thanks for replys. Couldn't tell you what lube is on the lead, I have bought from several dealers, the most recent from www.nationalbullet.com .
I have for several years fired some hot jacketed rounds at the end of the day to clean out fouling. Was just curious, wondering if there might be a "new" bore solvent available that I wasn't aware of.
Will admit, I'm lazy HATE to clean barrels.0 -
Take a look at this -has anybody tried it?
An Inexpensive Method For Lubricating Firearms & Getting The Lead Out
by Pete Culpenski
One of the most overlooked methods for lubricating firearms after
cleaning is to use air conditioning refrigerant oil. A/C refrigerant oil is
one of the finest, odorless lubricants available. As mentioned in previous
articles WD-40 can do more harm than good and transmission fluid (Dexron)
also has it's downfalls. Because it's meant to be used in transmissions,
transmission fluid has coloring added to it, which will stain woods and will
not hold up in high temperature situations (such as a rifle chamber) without
getting "sticky."
Air conditioning refrigerant oil, on the other hand, is a highly refined
oil designed to lubricate under high pressure and high temps as well as not
freeze when mixed with liquid freon (and that stuff R-12/R-22 is pretty darn
cold!). It has no odor, no color added to it and it can be purchased
inexpensively at any auto dealership parts dept. It's also a good idea to
keep a cloth with this oil added to it to wipe off firearms after handling
them.
For a penetrating oil, the best I have found is another automobile
product called Heat Riser Solvent. It comes in a spray can and will
penetrate and dissolve rust or corrosion in a heartbeat. Originally
designed to free up frozen (rusted) heatrisers on exhaust systems of cars,
this solvent contains a liquified graphite to ease removal of frozen
hardware.
And, how about getting the lead out of 'them barrels'. The market is
saturated with all kinds of concoctions guaranteed to do the job better
than the next guys product. Most products require elbow grease and a stiff
brush. I got tired of using Hoppe's #9 and decided to make life easier by
using two common household ingredients that we all have kicking around,
white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Mix up a 50-50 mixture and you have a
solution that will eat the lead out of a gun barrel within minutes, with no
hard scrubbing. Here is how I use it:
After blasting a hundred or so lead cast bullets out of my Ruger
Redhawk (stainless), my accuracy drops off due to leading and lead
streaking of the barrel. When I return home after shooting, I'll mix up a
solution of peroxide and vinegar (50/50), which I put in an old mustard
bottle with a painted tip so I can pour the solution in after plugging off
the end of the barrel. A reaction will occur between the lead and the
solution. You may even see some "fizzing" out of the barrel due to the lead
being "attacked". After five or ten minutes, pour the solution out and
rinse with tap water to flush out any residue. A second cleaning may be
necessary in the case of heavy lead deposits. After rinsing with tap water
run a patch through to dry and lubricate and you're done. Sounds easy ??
it is!
Okay, most of you are probably asking yourself right now "Won't this
harm my barrel." The answer in - no. This solution is so mild that you can
drink it. It's non-toxic and non-poisonous. For years I've poured vinegar
on my greens and salads, and I've used hydrogen peroxide to rinse my mouth.
Now how on earth is it going to damage a gun barrel, that you just blasted a
hundred or so rounds out of (especially stainless steel)? The salts in our
skin and perspiration are more harmful to firearm finishes.
I've even conducted tests where I have put this solution in a glass
dish and added a lead bullet, copper penny and a steel nail, just to watch
the reaction. The lead was attacked immediately and by the next morning
dissolved. And don't forget, we're only working against a thin film of lead
that has built up in a gun barrel. I've used this method for over 10 years on
my Redhawk and the bore is spotless and has lost no accuracy.
This method is basically the difference between spending big bucks on
cleaning supplies while a couple of dollars will do the same job. I
personally believe that once a shooter trys this, he/she will discard all
other cleaning methods.
Disclaimer: The author and publisher disclaim any liability for the
information disclosed.
God made some men big and some men small, Col. Colt made 'em equal...0 -
WOW. "onehalf moa" have never tried that method. Am definately going to try the 'test" and watched the results. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Cornflk1
Thanks for replys. Couldn't tell you what lube is on the lead, I have bought from several dealers, the most recent from www.nationalbullet.com .
I have for several years fired some hot jacketed rounds at the end of the day to clean out fouling. Was just curious, wondering if there might be a "new" bore solvent available that I wasn't aware of.
Will admit, I'm lazy HATE to clean barrels.
If you hate to clean then Don't Shoot! [:D] Really, the National Bullet stuff is pretty good as far as bullet hardness goes. I know alot of pinshooters that use them, myself included. I have never found a real 'solvent' that was good for getting the lead out easily.
The only thing that I have found to work consistantly and make cleaning easier is Moly Coating the bullets before reloading them, and Moly coating the barrel after each through cleaning. I do this often in my pin guns and carry guns and cleaning is easier than pie.
Also, on my pin loads, the moly coated bullets fly at about 10% faster than the raw lubed bullets. I started about 7 years ago using a midway kit (www.midwayusa.com) and have never looked back. For coating the bore, I use a moly paste they sell. Follow the instructions.
All this is predicated on you reloading your own bullets with National Bullet raw bullets, If your buying thier ammo, and shooting it. I wouldn't recomend that stuff. Years ago I had some students use it in a class, and they had alot of squib loads. I don't allow it anymore.
Edward Milliron
Dillon XL650 "Crank & Shoot"0 -
Hi Cornflk1,
I understand your question and I feel your pain. I have purchased lead bullets in the past that did not live up to their advertisment. They were either softer lead than stated or the lube was no good. Sometimes my fault for loading a little too fast for the bullet.
To be perfectly candid, I have not, repeat not, found a good solvent for a really bad lead smeared barrel. Many of the solvents will do a good job at minor lead deposits, but not lead smearing.
The only implement I have found that really "gets the lead out" is the Hoppe's Lead Remover Cleaning Patches. These patches are circular bronze wire mesh patches and do a complete job of lead removal from the barrel, followed by a good all purpose solvent like Hoppe's#9. The patches are fairly aggressive and cut the lead out without damaging the barrel.
There really is not much that I have found to beat this system. It takes some elbow grease but is the most effective method I have found.
The patches can be found on www.midwayusa.com. They are product #306-929 at $3.98 per a box of 10 patches.
Regards,
Heavyiron[8D]0
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