thoughts on muzzle threading alternatives
I picked up US made slant muzzle brake for my SAR1. It 14 x 1, left hand threaded. After looking at what it might cost to get a threading die, and then having to remove the front sight I was thinking of some alternatives.
I would drill out the inside diameter a little so the brake fits over the end of the barrel and then,
1) drill and tap the bottom of the brake as I already have a slew of taps, of various sizes
or
2) use JB Weld compound. Will this hold up to the heat? Is it strong enough overall?
I suppose I could have the brake tac-welded on but I'm afraid that it might not look that good and mar the finish around the area. Though I do know a VERY GOOD welder, but I don't know how much if any welding he's done on firearms.
I would drill out the inside diameter a little so the brake fits over the end of the barrel and then,
1) drill and tap the bottom of the brake as I already have a slew of taps, of various sizes
or
2) use JB Weld compound. Will this hold up to the heat? Is it strong enough overall?
I suppose I could have the brake tac-welded on but I'm afraid that it might not look that good and mar the finish around the area. Though I do know a VERY GOOD welder, but I don't know how much if any welding he's done on firearms.
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i my be wrong, but if your sar 1 does not have threads on the barrel you can not put threads on it. hopefully some of the other ak guys will jump on this question.
first rule of northern militia is that we don't talk about northern militia.0 -
I may be wrong, but I believe you can thread the piece on, however, it must be permenantly attached...i.e. welded once it is on. Can somebody confirm this?
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Between now and 9/13, you are correct. If it's threaded it must be permanently attached. Post 9/13, if things work out correctly, the permanent attachment issue should be moot. Then again, I was asking about alternatives to threading ...[;)] 0 -
Well...I think you covered the "alternatives" yourself in your origional post. [:D]
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GO WITH THE SET SCREW, THE JB WELD WILL LOOSE ITS STRENGHT OVER ABOUT 250 DEG. F. 0 -
Mr. Lantern,
IMHO; to properly align the "brake" with the bore, you will need to employ the use of a lathe. A thread die will do a fair job of making threads but will be next to impossible to hold centered & straight when done free-hand. As for fitting without threads, same goes with drilling out the existing threads. Also for a threadless fit, you should have a .0005 interferance & shrink fit to minimize chance of movement or your parts will work loose.
A proper & SAFE instalation requires close tollerance work that can not be done with normal back yard hand tools. OH, & by the way, JB Weld is not really weld, it is glue suitable only for non-structural repairs NEVER ON A BARREL OR FRAME!
"all I really need to know I learned in kindergarten" Robert Fulghum
anyone who says "nobody needs a full auto" has never been in front of a brown bear charge0 -
One of the sidebars on AR15.com describes in detail what you're trying to do. 0
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