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Colt Python

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8 comments

  • Twosocks
    I have an opportunity to buy a nickel Python 2 1/2" in original box 1968 with no letter in the serial number, pristine condition, kept in safe since bought, not fired since factory for around $6K. I am new to collecting and don't want to be stupid. Is this a deal or should I pass on it?
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  • Boomerang
    Mark is dead on when it comes to price, and when it comes to the blued vs. the nickle plated ones. The Colt Royal Blue Python is much more desireable than the nickle plated ones. I prefer the blued ones myself. I usually pass on nickle ones when it comes to acquiring one. Now this is not to say your gun is not desireable, it just has a smaller niche in the market.

    BTW, nice looking Python, Mark.

    Boomer

    "Success is to be measured not so much by the position that one has reached in life as it is by the obstacles which one has overcome while trying to succeed"

    . and the antithesis to this philosophy was uttered by Bill Clinton "I smoked it, but I didn't inhale."[V]

    NRA Life Member
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  • mateomasfeo
    As the owner of a LNIB blued 1962 6" Python, I must agree with Mark 110%.

    oswald.jpg

    Mateomasfeo

    "I am what I am!" - Popeye
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  • mateomasfeo
    quote:Originally posted by beantownshootah
    Hey, no offense intended, but why are you guys keeping your pythons new in the box? Aren't they meant for shooting, or are they "too good" for that?

    Also, are these guns still in production? Do they come in stainless? How do they stack up against the comparable S&W magnum?

    Thanks!



    They are still in production but are quite expensive new. They are built only in the custom shop.

    I DO shoot mine and it is a great gun to shoot!

    oswald.jpg

    Mateomasfeo

    "I am what I am!" - Popeye
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  • Sigarillo
    Just found the most beautiful 6" Crome Python you have ever seen. It is at least 98% because I assume to be 100% it would have to be unfired??? Has Pachmeyer presentation grips. Serial number is 334**E -- can anyone give me a birthing date and an estimate of what it might be worth?[8D]
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  • CHGOTHNDER
    I have a 3" blue in the box and never fired outside of the factory that is, only regret is I wish it was royal blue. I have 5 pythons and only 1 is stainless, Mark is right blue is the color of choice.

    PJ

    editorialcolor.bmp
    If nobody seen you do it, how could you have done it. NRA Endowment Member, AF&AM Shriner Life Member
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  • Ray Boone
    Beantown- I have a Python, blue, 8". It's not particularly concealable, but since it's primarily a target revolver, that's not an issue. The comparable S&W is the L frames. I have no experience with them. When I carried a 357 for work, I had a M66. The Smith was very workmanlike, and I don't have any real objections with it, but it just didn't have the look and feel or the Colt. the ython seems more an extension of my hand, so I tend to be more accurate with it, but then someone with different sized hands could say the same thing about K or L frames. I've heard the finish on the new Pythons doesn't compare to the old, but I've seen no proof of that claim.
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  • manderson
    Mr. Christian, as usual, is quite correct. I would only add that if you are considering a purchase, don't be hasty. Python's are what got me hooked on this "addiction" in the first place. I have six now. Got ripped on my first and paid way too much because I didn't do my homework first. You'll find that any Python priced at $800 or below is going to go pretty quick and you should jump on it if it is in real good shape. If it's an older "E" series or even earlier without the "E" prefix (only numbers) it will usually be tagged for around $1000. The very early 1956-1957 models with full checkered grips and hollow underlug will easily bring $1200 or more. This is what the market commands, but not necessarily what a Python is worth according to many experts.

    This web site will help you date a Colt up through 1978.

    http://proofhouse.com/colt/

    I believe the "K" series ran from around 1980 through 1982, but I don't have documentation on them.

    All of mine are blue. (I have no interest in nickel Pythons, except for maybe the "K" series .38 Special Target. For some reason I want one of these to have a matching set.)

    There's always the age old argument "to shoot or not to shoot". They won't get you through retirement, but I believe the older Pythons in 99-100% will certainly continue to appreciate in value as time goes on.
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