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Refinishing a stock

Patriots49
I bought an older target .22 Mossberg bolt action probably from the late 30's. Had it reblued and now looking for a professional to refinish the stock.

Can anyone recommend someone?

Thanks.



"...one nation, under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice...

Edited by - Forward on 07/09/2002 02:54:40

Edited by - Forward on 07/09/2002 03:00:42
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Comments

9 comments

Date Votes
  • Patriots49
    I have a savage 99e. The finish on the stock is worn and scratched like grandmas old chair.

    Whats the best way to refinish? Im thinking or usung 320 grit sandpaper and then wiping on watco danish oil.

    is there a better way?

    And while im here another question.

    I have a lot of 7mm 08 ammo. Does this correspond with any other size? I dont have a 7mm rifle.
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  • He Dog
    My choice would be LinSpeed Oil.
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  • deadeye46
    Hi Mike,I've had good results with Birchwood-Casey's "Tru-Oil" on the stocks I've refinished,Bob.
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  • Hangfire
    I agree with He Dog[Hi Dale]. Linspeed is an excellent finish that offers a reasonable working time. It also has a mellow sheen as opposed to a gloss or dead flat. Apply several coats according to instructions, and then on the final coat apply with 4/0 steelwool and lighty rub ,wiping completly dry.

    Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
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  • rhmc24
    I have good results with water based satin eurethane. I like the satin because it is somewhere between gloss and flat. It may or may not be the best but it dries quick and you can put on three or more coats in a day if you want.
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  • gotstolefrom
    I have used linseed oil on military furniture, but not for 'fine woods', linseed oil never dries to a 'hard' finish, it just stops soaking in. I have used a Danish Oil that may be similar to the product you mentioned but my Danish Oil experience may have been tainted by cold shop temperatures.

    I have sucess using a hand rubbed oil product called WATCO for about half of the gun furniture I have refinished. Get a smooth surface from sandpaper (if needed) to 0000 steel wool. Apply a coat, let it soak, wipe off 'excess' and let dry. After a coat of Watco, give a light rub-down with steel wool, then rub in Watco, and let it dry. After this it is just Watco, wool , Watco, wool, etc. until you have what you want. It give a rich 'deep' finish, 'harder' than linseed oil, 'softer' than a poly.

    If we do not hang together,
    We will most certainly hang separately.
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  • king999
    If you have the stain in and the color is what you like, you can go right to the polyurithane. Apply with steel wool, wipe of excess and let dry 48 hrs. Three coats is nice. If final finish glossier than you want, rub down with dry fine steel wool.
    Morty
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  • Hangfire
    quote:Originally posted by gotstolefrom
    I have used linseed oil on military furniture, but not for 'fine woods', linseed oil never dries to a 'hard' finish, it just stops soaking in. I have used a Danish Oil that may be similar to the product you mentioned but my Danish Oil experience may have been tainted by cold shop temperatures.

    I have sucess using a hand rubbed oil product called WATCO for about half of the gun furniture I have refinished. Get a smooth surface from sandpaper (if needed) to 0000 steel wool. Apply a coat, let it soak, wipe off 'excess' and let dry. After a coat of Watco, give a light rub-down with steel wool, then rub in Watco, and let it dry. After this it is just Watco, wool , Watco, wool, etc. until you have what you want. It give a rich 'deep' finish, 'harder' than linseed oil, 'softer' than a poly.

    If we do not hang together,
    We will most certainly hang separately.


    Linseed and Linspeed are two different animals.

    Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
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  • Sunray
    Tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil. BLO will give you the same finish seen on Garands etc. Tung oil, properly applied, will give you a nice sheen that doesn't come out. Use a soft, lint free, cloth(have lots of 'em) and apply a coat and rub it in. It takes several coats, applied 24 hours apart. Hand rubbed heat makes the sheen and brings out the grain nicely. Be advised that once it's on, there's no going back. It soaks into the wood about 1/4". You can sand off the stain, but you won't get the tung oil out. Minwax makes it, but there are several makers. Cheap it ain't. It's about $15 a litre up here.
    Wood's wood. You refinish a gun stock the same way you do good furniture.
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