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Pitted Mauser recievers

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4 comments

  • SMJ32288
    I have a Colt lower receiver which is marked Colt AR-15 Govt. Model Carbine SN GC 0185XX and has the sear block. Is this a pre ban receiver? I have a 2003 Krause Publications book on gun values that states post ban guns were not marked AR-15. But I have been told that the SN indicates a post ban number. I need an experts opinion.
    Thanks Much. John

    John M. Surber
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  • OleDuk
    Muse, if it's below the wood line, why bother? If the pits are shallow you could possibly work them out with a little judicious mill work, or small grinders. There are reasons which might encourage you to smooth out those surfaces such as if you were trying to glass bed the action and the pitted areas would try to lock it in place. You can overcome that by scotch taping over the pits maybe which would result in a smooth surface on the bedding in the pitted areas. If the
    pits are in the front ring, that's a place where you don't want to weld. If you want to weld on the rear parts of the thing, be sure to keep the front ring cool.
    Cheers,
    OleDuk[:)]

    "Disperse you Rebels; Damn you,throw down your arms and disperse!"
    British Major John Pitcairn, April 19, 1775. He fell at Bunker Hill two months later.
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  • perry shooter
    Hello if I were you I would leave the pits alone.You could build a rifle and it would just look bad. Yes you could weld pits up and then grind smooth however this would present 2 problems the first is depending on what kind of rod is used the action when reblued might look like a pokadot the metal in the rod might be of different makeup than the action and they would not come out the same color.The second and most important unless you xrayed and reheat treated the action and re proofed you might have a dangerous rifle. The money to do all this would be more than buying a new action. quote:Praise the HARDBALL GUN" quote:
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  • ern98
    Pits on the main ring foward of the bolt face should be smoothed out or left alone for maximum retension of the heat treat in and around that area. The farther back away from the bolt face you get the less critical. Still always use tig or mig, never acetylene welding. Always wrap the rest of the receiver in some form of heat sink to keep heat from the critical frontal region of the action. If you are building up a high energy (magnum) cartridge, get a better action to start with.
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