Skip to main content
Help Center Community Shop

Stock / Barrel Conntection Points

HoosierBoy
My Remington BDL .06 accuracy is still a problem for me. As suggested by the board I sent the scope in for a check. I am now looking at the gun. Shots are still on the paper, but all over the place (as they were with the scope). I guess the problem is the gun, but I'm still curious what the scope people say.

I also tried the dollar bill test. When I slip a dollar bill between the barrel and the stock is there any point along the barrel where the dollar will hang up? I did this last night and I got hung up along the forearm where the sling strap attaches to the stock and just before the receiver. I unscrewed the sling screw on the forearm all the way out with the result.

I guess I want to know where along the barrel does the barrel attach to the stock, if at all.

Thanks in advance!
0

Comments

7 comments

Date Votes
  • JustC
    the barrel should not contact the stock. The barrel is attached by threads to the receiver and nowhere else. If you are finding that the dollar bill hangs up,.then this is how you can do it yourself. Take the dollar bill and run it up until it hits,..then mark the stock with a wax marker and then mark it again when it stops dragging. Do this for both contact points. Now when you remove the barreled action from the stock,..you will have reference points on the side of the barrel channel. SLOWLY take sand paper and releive the wood in those areas where it was making contact. Be sure not to remove too much material from the side of the barrel channel unless that is where the contact is. Keep putting the rifle back in the stock and repeating the test until the bill does not drag any longer. Then shoot it to see if the performance has improved. If so,..remove the barreled action again and seal the wood in the barrel channel where you sanded the finish off of it,...this will keep it from changing as much in damp conditions. repeat this until the bill clears the barrel all the way up to the recoil lug.

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
    0
  • RCrosby
    Here's a slightly different take on the barrel contact for you. No real right or wrong to much of this. Some "free float the barrel" from receiver on out; some glass bed the whole thing for full contact. More common, I believe, than either of those is to either have full contact (for support) for 2 or 3 inches out from the recoil lug, and then either free floating the rest of the way or with some upward pressure at the forend tip. Personal preference; if I suspect problems I usually bed that first couple of inches; try it that way, and if accuracy is still suspect I'll start playing with foreend pressure. You can do this by loosening the stock screws and inserting a match book cover or other spacer. You'll likely find folks who swear by each of these variations. Bottom line, at least for me, is that each rifle tends to be a law unto itself. Experiment beginning with the easiest thing to do and then progress to the more complex. If it were mine I'd coat the barrel with candle soot or black shoe polish to identify the exact points of contact. I'd leave it alone near the receiver; free up any high points mid-way, and play with pressure at the fore-end tip first. E-mail if any of this doesn't make sense. I'd be glad to talk with you.
    Rob

    Rob
    0
  • Contender Man
    I've read over your previous post and getting Leupold to checkout the scope was a good move as it only cost shipping.

    I assume that you have checked the stock over closely to insure that there are no cracks and that any bedding associated with the action or even the first few inches of the barrel is not loose, cracked, etc.

    Next is your comment above about using a $ bill to check stock to barrel clearnace and finding 2 contact points one at or near the swivel mount and the other near the action. It is possible that the installation of the swivel mount created that contact point and now the stock has a minor deformation from that so contact is still there with the swivel removed. The contact near the action may be bedding compound, but you can see in there and we can't so we need your input on that one.

    With the action/barrel removed check the area above the swivel mount to see if you can feel any deformation. Also check for bedding and the condition of the bedding back near the action and around the action.

    Lastly you did not mention how far back from the forend tip the swivel mount is, if it is only an inch or so the stock may have an internal pressure pad at or near that point. If that is the case, reassemble if you've found no other suspect items then try firing it and backing out the stock screw in 1/4 or less increments, noting what if anything is happening to bullet impact and group. Take your time firing to keep the barrel temp. down until you have a handle on things as heating up the barrel just introduces another dimension. Use a good solid rest.

    If you can't see any improvement, spend a couple bucks with a good gunsmith before you start trying to beaver out the stock.

    As for the barrel being shot out ... the odds of that are pretty slim unless you are seriously blasting away w/ it or your not the original owner and have no idea what has been done to/with it before you. And that brigns us back to the gunsmith.


    6730814-S.gif

    If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!
    0
  • HoosierBoy
    Thanks for all the suggestions -- very helpful!

    The forend swivel is approximately 2" from the tip. There are no visible cracks anywhere on the stock and all the hardware is tight.

    I did notice that as I look at the barrel from the top of the gun that the spacing of the stock is closer to the barrel on the left side by approx. an 1/8" than on the right. I suspect this and the swivel issue may be the culprit.

    Does everyone concur that a re-bedding job is in order? If so, can anyone reccomend a gunsmith in the Northern Virginia area? I don't feel comfortable taking this thing apart.

    I don't need a tack driver, I just want to hit my target! I am starting to have a confidence issue! :-)

    Thanks again!
    0
  • Contender Man
    I can't help you with the gunsmith, but I'm sure that other members can. However, it might be best to post the question as a new post to attract more attention.

    Once you find a "smith" discuss the matter with them and see what their recommended next step is. If for some reason your not comfortable with them or their recommendation tell them you need to think on things a bit and get another opinion. Last thing you want to do is spend the price of a new rifle to fix this rifle, just no percentage in that[;)]

    6730814-S.gif

    If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!
    0
  • JustC
    I have a great gunsmith in Laurel DE if you don't find one closer. A bedding job with some stock work should run no more than $100 tops,..but would suspect it to be less since there is no pillar bedding needed.

    You may try to look up the member "groundhog devastation". Charlie has contacts with several gunsmiths in the VA area and is a straight shooter.

    I would look to the barrel/stock as the culprit as it is very unlikely she is burned out. The rifle sitting in the stock at a crooked angle speaks volumes about the problem, and unless the swivel stud has come through the barrel channel,.I would not think it could cause groups that eratic. In order to deform the wood that much, I would think it would be visable with the naked eye. A quick action bedding/barrel floating job will probably reduce the group size by a good 60%. I have yet to see a properly functioning rem700 not shoot less than 1" with factory ammo.

    One more thing,..does the rifle have iron sights? if so, shoot it with them and see if the POI changes with each shot. If it does,..then it is NOT the scope.

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
    0
  • HoosierBoy
    JustC

    I do have iron sights and have shot with just the sights with the same results. I agree that it is probably not the scope, but I shipped it to the Leupold folks anyway just for piece of mind.

    I'll post a new request for a Smith now.

    Thanks to everyone for all the input. The suggestions are good and I learned something in the process!
    0

Please sign in to leave a comment.

Recent Activity