barrel refinishing (how good is good enough?)
I am browning a CVA muzzleloader barrel. I'm not after a show-quality finish but hope to approach a look similar to what it was when new.
My main question is:
How smooth does the metal need to be? I have sanded some minor rust out and there are some sanding marks (220 grit paper so far), does it need to be mirror finish or what? I'm going to be using Laural Mountain Browning solution if it matters.
Does anyone have any good suggestions for covering or plugging the muzzle to keep the solvent mixture out? I thought about putting in a patched roundball just into the muzzle then filling the rest up with wax or something similar, what do you think?
Has anyone ever put blued appointments (namely sights) on a browned barrel? Does it look totally stupid or does it look OK?
My main question is:
How smooth does the metal need to be? I have sanded some minor rust out and there are some sanding marks (220 grit paper so far), does it need to be mirror finish or what? I'm going to be using Laural Mountain Browning solution if it matters.
Does anyone have any good suggestions for covering or plugging the muzzle to keep the solvent mixture out? I thought about putting in a patched roundball just into the muzzle then filling the rest up with wax or something similar, what do you think?
Has anyone ever put blued appointments (namely sights) on a browned barrel? Does it look totally stupid or does it look OK?
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Bambi- 220 is really,really coarse!!!You should do finer than 600 wet/dry.I know its available in 1200.Be sure and use a sanding block to keep the surfaces flat. A block of wood works perfect. Go to the hardware store and get a pack of assorted sizes of tapered corks....one'll plug the bore just fine.I haven't done it for over 20 years, but I always Browned everything.
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
Oh wow... Then I've got a ways to go.
I will get a cork, I hadn't thought of that. I'd bet it'd work better than what I had thought up. I think my idea would have worked, except that I'm re-doing this in the garage and it might get warm enough the wax might run off. [}:)]
It needs to have a relatively mirror finish to make it clean huh? I am using a sanding block to help keep the lands flat, but the barrel is +35 years old and has been used so I won't be able to get some of the stuff out. I got it "in the white" for the most part, I'm just finishing his initial cleanup and will try to smooth it out some more. I guess I'm gonna need some finer paper. You mentioned wet/dry; do you have a preference on the sanding method (wet or dry?) Is it best to finish it off with steel wool or something else, or take it all the way down with paper?
I have done spot refinish jobs before, but this is my first complete job and this is the gun that I've used to take over 50 deer with and while it will be a hunting gun when I'm done, I owe the ol' gal the respect to do it right.
Thanks for your help. [:)]0 -
IT ALL DEPENDS ON WHAT THE RIFLE IS FOR, A HUNTING GUN WILL DO JUST FINE WITH A 200 GRIT FINISH. 1200 IS JUST WAISTED ON ANYTHING THAT WILL BE SHOT. AFTER ALL 'BROWNING' IS NOTHING MORE THAN FINE RUST. 0 -
Mike-Your right...1200 is way overkill. It was late when I typed that[8D] But I would still go with at least 400.
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
You've got to realize that the browning process, like rust-blue, etches the metal as it cures. 240 grit is fine. Anything greater than 400 grit is an absolute waste of energy.
Scrappy Doo sleeps with the fishes.0
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