Reloading question
I am having to use BR-2 large rifle primers on my 22-250 reloads.
I have been putting 39.2 grains of H380 under a 53GR Barnes TSX FB.
The Barnes book says you can go over this charge a little because of the ring lands groves in the bullet.
My question is ,
Do you think I should back off a few tenths of a grain to offset the large rifle primer?
I have been putting 39.2 grains of H380 under a 53GR Barnes TSX FB.
The Barnes book says you can go over this charge a little because of the ring lands groves in the bullet.
My question is ,
Do you think I should back off a few tenths of a grain to offset the large rifle primer?
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Does anyone know what the factory load is for
270 wsm Winchester Supreme loaded with a 130 grain balistic silvertip bullet. I am looking mostly for powder charge and powder type. I have a friend that will reload them for me but I want to stick with the factrory specs because it shoots soooo well.
Thanks
Steve0 -
The lube's primary purpose is to ease the sizing operation & prevent the case from sticking in the die. In straight neck cases like the 41 mag it isn't used as much for inside neck lube, as it is with bottle neck cases. I really like Federal primers. In fact the only primers I buy are Federal and Winchester. I don't load for the 41 so have no loads, though I'm still kicking myself for not buying a Ruger Blackhawk 41, 3 screw, new, about 30 years back. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by ginmaster
I've purchased some Hornaday reloading dies that claim they are lube free dies. Is this correct? Is the lube mainling used in the resizing process?
The Hornaday dies, have a carbide insert. When resizing pistol brass that has a untapered, unnecked case, it's not neccessary to lube the brass when using "carbide" dies.
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Ginmaster, first of all welcome to the world of reloading. Hornady dies are good dies and will serve you well. On straight walled cases you really don't need much lube to size the case with ease. Your Federal magnum large pistol primers will do a good job--I use them all the time to ignite slow burning powder. As for the loading manuals, I would recommend that you buy a late issue reloading manual such as Hodgedon, Hornady, Speer, Sierre, etc. Start loading with lower recommended charges and gradually work up until you get a good load(acuracy is more inportant than speed). My loads for the .41 magnum mostly use Blue Dot powder or H110 powder. For lighter loads I will use 2400 powder. Blue dot gives good accuracy and good velocity but when you really need to shove a bullet hard, I go with H110. In either case a medium heavy to a heavy crimp on the bullet is needed to get good results. Good luck with your .41. I think it is the most useful of all the magnums(up to a point). It will handle anything in North American if you place the bullet where it belongs. 0 -
Ginmaster - DO NOT USE THE LOADS LISTED IN THE 1978 MANUAL!!!![:0]
These loads were developed back in the day when good pressure testing equipment was generally not available. With today's more precise instruments, you will note ALL the manuals have backpedaled on the maximum listed charges across the board.
As Pinhead states, get you a modern, up to date manual and start from there. If you desire to use Hodgdon powders, their latest manual (number 27) is a good place to look. I use H110 in my Ruger ss .41 mag and also the Federal mag primers. Won't post any loads because each firearm is different and your's may not be compatible with my loads.
Economy scales do not have the precision as more expensive scales do. They tend to hang, have more coarse adjustments and not as repeatable. Try to find something in the $50 - $60 range to assure at least some accuracy. Beam scales are fine - been used for years for good loads, but they do need to be check weighed. Same for electronic scales.
Begin at the recommended start loads and slowly work up to see how your handgun and you respond to the increased loads.
Enjoy the world of handloading!! [:)]
Keep off the Ridgeline0 -
gm, all good advice above. I would only take exception to the matter of manuals . . . for a first manual, get the Lyman. It is not as detailed as some of those mentioned, but it owes no allegiance to any family of bullets / propellants & so provides a wide selection of loads covering most all of them, albeit much sacrificing in depth what it offers in breadth. Still, you won't see loads for cast bullets in the Sierra, et. al., manuals, nor Winchester powder in Hodgdon manuals nor Speer bullets in Hornady . . . etc., etc., etc. I've never started a new loading project without consulting the Lyman manuals on my shelf.
"There is nothing lower than the human race - except the french." (Mark Twain) ". . . And liberals / demoRats" (me)0 -
Thanks you for the advice gunbroker.com experts. Always a pleasure. Some of you are true experts and have great words of wisdom. Thanks again.
Born To Hunt... Forced To Work... #@!#$!!0 -
Hey Gin; here's hoping you'll enjoy reloading so much that you'll be answering questions like these in the future!
For a real, live person to help you select loads and components for your ammo; give the Speer Techs a buzz at 1-800-223-8799 M-F 8-10 Central Time. Be sure to let them know what you want to do, and that you're just starting out; they'll be gentle[:D]
I've used the Lee Safety Scale for 20 years at least, and find it to be adequate for pistol loads; though I do love my PACT BBK digital scale due to the speed with which I can check my charge weights. The thing only cost $100, uses a 9v adaptor from RadShack, and zeros in about 10 seconds.
If you know it all; you must have been listening.<br>WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0 -
GM, I don't consider myself an expert handloader, but something that the previous replies omitted was the important step in the process of insuring that ALL dust and other crud be completely removed from the brass before sizing. Even after tumbling to clean the brass you should always wipe the brass with a dry cloth. This will increase the life of your dies and brass. 0 -
Gin, I'm new to reloading too. A lot of good advice on here. I learned a couple things myself. I'd probably go ahead and get a new set of Hornady carbide dies myself. They're relatively inexpensive for how much you can use them (prob. a lifetime).
As for the scale, I got a Hornady balance scale that measures to the 1/10th of a grain. There's 7000 grains in lb. There's 3 diff. weights to slide on the beam. I've been told it would be plenty accurate but for the sake of speed and time, I'm prob. gonna get an electronic.
As for a manual, I got a Nosler reloading manual for 24 bucks from Cabelas. 900 page book with about every type of ammo, and they've done VERY in depth testing with about every type of powder, and every type of Nosler bullet and weight avail. but doesn't show other brands of bullets. It does tell you the exact components used ( i.e. Federal 215 lg. mag primers, Win. case etc..) and astericks by most accurate powder and load tested. Very easy to use. I'd also highly recommend a caliber specific (in your case .41) manual from cabelas. I got one for .40, .223, and 7mm rem mag. For ex., the .40 has over 2000 diff. combin. of loads in it and basically it was put together by copying all the pages for that caliber out of most of all the manuals that are available. Great manual. I used the design out of the bench shown in the Nosler manual to make my own bench too. I'd recommend both manuals. Hope this helps.0 -
All good advise. Your scale is the most important componant, get a good one,digital if you can afford one.2nd most important is a good manual,Lyman is the 1st one I go to. Powder I use is Winchester ball powders, mainly because they tend to burn cleaner and I hate cleaning guns, but thats a personal preferance. Max. loads don't always produce Max. accuracy, work your way up with the same bullet wieght/design and primer and see what gives the best group results from your gun.
A tip for useing carbide sizing dies, invest in a case tumbler. Carbide dies don't like dirty cases, clean shiney ones will extend the life of the cases as well as the dies. Grit on the case run through the sizer will score the wall of the case and cause a possible rupture.
Don't stop asking questions about reloading, there is always something new to learn, and this is a good place to do it. Enjoy!
"Aim small...Miss small"0 -
The old free loading guides put out by the powder companies were and are still pretty reliable standard loads. One problem is that the powder has changed slightly with new lots. Another is that you will not find much Hercules or DuPont (or Laflin & Rand} powder on your dealer's shelf. The old powder companies' free guides are still useful as a cross check to prevent egregious errors. Ask your dealer for all that he has. Many dealers refuse to give away free guides thinking that it would cost them sales of manuals.
Cheers from Darkest California,
Ross0
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