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Winchester Model 12 help, please (pics added)

talusman
Greetings,

This is my first post here, although I've been reading along for a while. Here's my question:

I recently acquired a Winchester Model 12, it belonged to my grandfather who passed away. I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable than myself might be able to give me some info as to when it was made, what length shell its chambered for, if there's anything special about it (in general, in that is, obviously it's very special to me!) and how much these are valued at. Here's what info I could find on the gun:

Left of barrel from top: "Nickel Steel, Winchester logo, Model 12-12GA, MOD
Right of barrel from top: Patent pending, blah blah... last date listed is July, 1913
Bottom of reciever/barrel: 5428XX
I measured the barrel and from what I can tell it measures 26" from muzzle to the end of the chamber.
It has a black plastic butt plate that says winchester repeating arms.

If anybody can shed some light on this one I'd be really grateful. Thanks in advance!

-Jeremy K.
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • Sage
    Model 12 made from 1912 until 1964. Considered one of the best mass produced slide action repeaters. From serial numbers looks like yours was made 1929 or 1930. Not sure what chamber that year would be. Mine is 1954 and is 2 3/4". Value is all about condition. In very good condition should be worth about $600.00 but that is cyclical. I absolutly love mine hope you enjoy yours.
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  • Bert H.
    Hello Jeremy,

    Your Model 12 12 gauge is chambered for 2-3/4" shells (as were all of them unless specifically marked for a longer shell length). The serial number indicates manufacture circa 1928. The buttplate is actually hard rubber. Your particular Model 12 is worth a bit more than normal because of the shorter than standard barrel length, the more open choke, and the nickel steel barrel. However, without knowing more about the precise graded condition, it is not really possible to pin down a close estimate of the retail value. If you can post pictures, that would help immensely.

    Bert H.

    Real Men use a SINGLE-SHOT!
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  • Ray Boone
    While we are talking about Mdl 12s; I have been unable to remove the cap from the magazine in order to remove the spring and plug. There's the large pin that is pushed through to one side, then twisted so the barrel disengages from the receiver; and there are 2 small screws which appear to be what would hold the cap in place. I have removed these screws, but the cap is still tight. What else do I need to do to get the cap off?
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  • only winchesters
    talusman: 26 in Mod. choke barrels are on the rare side in Nickel Steel. Is it a plain round barrel, or does it have a solid rib on top, or a Vent rib? If it has a vent rib, there should be a little oval with a PW in it on the left side where the barrel meets the receiever.
    This is an early gun so if it's a standard field grade, it should have a real small pistol grip, with a long wrist, or what's known as a straight pull butt stock, (no pistol grip). Is there any checkering on the wood? Kind of need this info to give you an accurate quote. Along with the questions already asked. Regards Dave


    Ray: You have to pull the magazine pin out. Rotate the pin until you see the small slot with the straight spring in it. Keep one finger on the mag cap. push the spring in with your thumb nail, or a very small flat nose screw driver, at the same time you have to gently pull the pin out. If the screws and pin are out and the cap doesn't budge, you have a little build up of crud and corrosion on the inside of the mag tube. With the barrel assy removed from the receiver, looking into the mag tube where the follower is, (it pushes the shells into the receiver) With one finger push in on the follower and pour a little laquer thinner in there and let it sit. You should be able to move the mag plug buy moving the the mag plug stop to the left then the right. (Mag plug stop has the two little ears on it and is actually on the mag plug) Reguards Dave
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  • talusman
    Hey guys, thanks for all the great info. I took some pics, and have posted them. A few notes:

    The reddish markings on the reciever aren't rust.. they seem to be some sort of residue that might come off with solvent.
    The metal is all smooth to the touch and shiny, although as you can see is discolored in places.
    The bore is bright and smooth

    Other than that you should see the marks on the wood and such, this was my grandad's field gun and it has seen some use in it's day. Thanks again, and let me know what you think.

    Pics here: http://www.rpi.edu/~kleinj/Model12/

    -Jeremy

    P.S. Dave, as you can see from the pics, it's a plain barrel. There are two ovals on top... one on the barrel and one on the reciever that have what appears to be a P over a W. Hope this helps.
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  • Bert H.
    Hello Jeremy,

    Unfortunately, that old Model 12 does not have very much of the original factory finish left on it, which for the most part makes it a "shooter" versus a collector grade gun. In the pictured condition, it is realistically only worth about $250 (and it might be tough to get that much). It does look like your grandfather cherished and used it for its intended purpose though. I would recommend doing the same... take it into the field and use it.

    Bert H.

    Real Men use a SINGLE-SHOT!
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  • talusman
    Bert, thanks for the info. Could you tell me what the original Nickel Steel finish looked like? And also, can I fire standard load steel shot with this? Thanks again!

    -Jeremy
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  • Bert H.
    Hello Jeremy,

    The finish that was originally on both the frame and barrel was a dark blue. Even though your Model 12 has a more open choke than most, you should NOT shoot steel shotshells in it. Stick to Bismuth (where/when the non-toxic loads are required). Check the pictures of the Model 12 in this auction for what the original finish should look like like - http://www.gunbroker.com/auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=20924976 (note that it has been refinished, but whoever did the work did a good job).

    Bert H.

    Real Men use a SINGLE-SHOT!
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  • only winchesters
    talusman: I looked at a few of your pictures. Looking at the action release button, (next to the trigger guard) the knurling is in good shape for this old of a gun. The gun has been well cared for, some blood spots starting to appear. Winchester only made about 625000 Nickle Steel guns before they switched the steel alloy, in all guages. Again most of the Mod. choke guns had a 28 in. barrel, yours is 26 in. Since Nickel Steel guns are much harder to find, about half of the ones made are gone now, either worn out, torn apart for parts, or altered in some fashion, (reblued, Simmons rib added, replacement stocks, etc_ A md 12 nut such as myself would go higher than what Bert said. I wouldn't be surprized if someone would go as high $350 plus for your gun. I've only seen a hand full of Md 12 12ga guns with a 26 in, Mod. barrel come up for sale in the last few years.

    Bert is absolutly correct, DON'T SHOOT STEEL shot shells through this gun. If you can't use lead, go with Bismuth. It was your Grandfathers gun, keep it and pass it along. Just wipe it down a couple of times a year with a good gun oil, including the inside of the barrel, and don't store it in a gun case. It will last another persons lifetime!! Regards Dave
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  • talusman
    Wow, thank you guys for all the great info. I'm not too concerned about retail value, since I don't plan on getting rid of it. It's really neat to know it's a bit unique though, and now I have the info if people ask at the range :). I'm not surprised the finish is just about worn off. He carried this gun around a LOT (he had a farm). I'll definitely pick up some lead or bismuth shells, I look forward to shooting it. Thanks again...

    -Jeremy
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