Stock Finish
Just received a new Charles Daly o/u shot gun and really don't like the glossy Wlanut stock and forearm. Is there any way that the gloss could be removed to produce a dull finish? any suggestions? Thanks .
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can any one tell me what I should use to finish a walnut stock that is clean down to stain 0 -
When these high gloss finishes first came out, I thought they were great. Now, I can't stand them. That's especially true for the Browning finish, which chips easily & is impossible to repair. Even though oil-rubbed finishes don't repel water as well, at least they are pretty to look at, & easy to repair or refinish.
The factories are able to get these finishes to look so good because they dip the wood in vats of the stuff; those of us who refinish must apply the stuff with a brush or cloth. And, the factories are able to finish the wood before anything is attached; have you ever been able to r&r a rubber recoil pad without destroying it? It's a real challenge for us to seamlessly match wood & metal after refinishing. For these reasons, plus the proprietary secret formulas used for factory high gloss finishes, I don't think that we will ever be able to duplicate them.
As for me, I'm sticking to tung oil.
Neal0 -
Lin-Speed is my favorite,available from Brownell's.The more coats you put on the better it is.[^] 
When a worm wants to relax,does he go fishing?
ATF,Eagle Guns0 -
There is this stuff I bought once from a wood place called "Rock Hard Table Top Finish". I used it on a bar top, not a gun stock, and I liked the results. Maybe your local woodshop or paint store could give you more info.
RIGHT WING AND PROUD OF IT0 -
tru-oil, use the liquid to fill the wood grain and the spray to do the last few coats for a goss finish. this can be touched up easly and isn't as hard (easyer to scratch) as the browning type finish. 0 -
Second ATF on Lin-Speed Oil, great stuff. Takes some pretty sofistocated doing to get an epoxy finish on a rifle stock, and it is brittle. Does not endure well at all, and after a time tends to crack. 0 -
i have had great luck useing plasti-kote clear coat.it takes abot 5 coats but it shines like a mirror. i hang the stock from a unbent coathanger..done several since i stumbled on this and they have all turned out great! the finish is surprisingly tuff too![;)]
dennis0 -
Hello, '99-- Let me tell you what I've done that comes very close if not an exact match. This is on a whole stock and not a repair. Using a high gloss polyurethane varnish, after stripping the old finish, spray on a coat and let it dry. Using fairly coarse steel wood, rub it down to the wood. What you'll see is a dull surface with glossy speckles where the glossy varnish is laying in the pores of the wood. Spray on another coat and repeat the process. After 3 or 4 coats, the wood pores will be completely filled and after rubbing it down you won't see the "speckles". Spray on another coat and let it dry. It should look like glass on the wood. You must also use a tack rag after each coat to get the dust off of the wood before the next coat of varnish.
I appreciate Neal's comments also. I did this on my old Rem.760 years ago and didn't like it. After considerable messing with it, I rubbed the wood down with rottenstone to where it was dull, but that was too dull!! Just to see what it would do, I buffed stock and forend with a lamb's wool bonnet on a buffer running slow, and I'd say it came out just the way I wanted it. Looks like an oil finish, not as glossy as Tru-Oil, and nearly as hard as my head.
And, like Neal, the last two stocks I did were done with tung oil!!
Cheers,
OleDuk[:)][:)]0 -
thanks to all...I've tries just about everthing including the tru oil and linseeds, but nothing ever seems to come up to the standards I want. I just get tired looking at the zipper scratches and little dings that come just from handling, at least on my target guns I take out in public, the only thing that has been close is spray polyurethene which more coats can be added to if buffed first wtih steel wool first. The last shotgun I had to refinish (for a friend) I had to make a new steel triger guard and forearm. Ended up trying the the AlumaHyde II (sp) Epoxy spray in camo colors front to back except for the new rubber pad, and he loved the finish. It is as hard as my head and he claims so far he has not scratched it through last fall and this springs turkey seasons.
Learn from the mistakes of others, for you won't live long enough to make them all yourself....0 -
You might try Varithane. It's primary use is for varnishing hardwood floors. comes in three finishes, gloss, satin, and flat. Easy to use, flows well, and you can apply up to three coats in eight hours. Price at my local Home Depot is $34/gallon. It dries quick and is hard as a rock.
John
A friend will post your bail. A good friend will be sitting next to you in the cell saying, "man that was fun!"0
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