.45acp barrel cleaning
I have 2 .45acps and I am having trouble cleaning the barrels to my satisfaction. No matter what I use or how much I seem to scrub there is always some visible fouling around the breech of the barrel along the grooves. It is driving me crazy. This does not happen in the other firearms I have like the 9mm or the .40 s&w, just the .45's. Is there any product or treatment that I am not using that will help with this little issue. Thank you for your any advice.
Mike
"You cannot conquer America." -William Pitt, 1777
Mike
"You cannot conquer America." -William Pitt, 1777
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If your using a brass brush try using a steel one and be carefull not to scrape anything else. I only use a steel brush as a last resort.
PJ
If nobody seen you do it, how could you have done it. NRA Life Member, AF&AM0 -
Is your "wool mop", the finger-shaped fabric thing you soak in Hoppes and force in and out of the barrel the right size? Is it worn? Is it clean enough to start with?
You can give it a dip in Hoppes, then wipe it down well, similar to cleaning a paint roller or brush, and then reapply solvent and try it again in the barrel. I've found, since cessation of metal brush use within my barrels, that it tales extra wool-mop cleaning to get them "factory clean".It should be tight enough that the cleaning solution is pushed out of the wool mop and overflows onto your cleaning table (towel-covered, of course). I force it in slowly on the first run, to allow the overflow to soak back into the mop (I dip only the bottom half into the cleaning solution.)
A local LEO tells me "For years I've been spraying the heck out of the metal parts with brake cleaner, and never see any damage". I've done this too, and it does loosen stubborn dirt, but I always follow it up with Hoppes Solvent, then oil.
Dirty ammo, E.G. Wold or UMC, or lead bullets might be the problem. Then the metal brush could be the only solution.
Make sure your rod allows the brush to swivel/spin with the rifling.0 -
Try BLUE WONDER gun cleaner on it, does good on mine
Classic (the Ugly Biker)
"I dont care how thin you make a pancake, it still has two sides"
"A wise man is a man that realizes just how little he knows.
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I do use Blue Wonder on all my firearms and it still leaves it less than clean. I do use some UMC ammo in them from time to time, so maybe that might be a solution. I bought some Butch's Bore Shine in hopes that it will do just that. As far as the wool bore mop...I do not use that item...I just use patches if I'm using Hoppes or Browning and the brush if I am using Blue Wonder. Thanks for the tips so far. Hopefully more suggestions will come. I will try them out tonight.
"You cannot conquer America." -William Pitt, 17770 -
When all else fails I use an Outer's Foul Out unit. It will remove lead or copper fouling electrically. 0 -
I agre with Peary, but that is a triffle expensive to purchase. Barring that end route, have you tried Sweets 7.62? Stinks like a** and seems to be very effective from my experience. Also easy to tell when you've gotten the fouling out as the patches quit coming out blue. I normally let it sit in the barrel about a half an hour between goes and it will remove fouling I wasn't aware was there! Don't, however, let it sit overnight...tends to darken the bore a tad.
"When I cease learning...I'm dead"(Me)
"Power corrupts...Absolute power corrupts absolutely"(Descartes?)
"History is written by winners"(Patton)
"You get a lot farther with a kind word and a gun than you do with a kind word alone!"(Al Capone)
"There is nothing lower than the human race...except the French" (Samuel Clemens)0 -
quote:Originally posted by jsergovic
Is your "wool mop", the finger-shaped fabric thing you soak in Hoppes and force in and out of the barrel the right size? Is it worn? Is it clean enough to start with?
You can give it a dip in Hoppes, then wipe it down well, similar to cleaning a paint roller or brush, and then reapply solvent and try it again in the barrel. I've found, since cessation of metal brush use within my barrels, that it takes extra wool-mop cleaning to get them "factory clean".It should be tight enough that the cleaning solution is pushed out of the wool mop and overflows onto your cleaning table (towel-covered, of course). I force it in slowly on the first run, to allow the overflow to soak back into the mop (I dip only the bottom half into the cleaning solution.)
A local LEO tells me "For years I've been spraying the heck out of the metal parts with brake cleaner, and never see any damage". I've done this too, and it does loosen stubborn dirt, but if i do use brake solvent, I always follow it up with Hoppes Solvent, then oil.
Dirty ammo, E.G. lead or UMC, or lead bullets might be the problem. Then the metal brush could be the only solution.
Make sure your rod allows the brush to swivel/spin with the rifling.
Edited for spelling...0 -
I used Butch's Bore Shine last evening and with a little effort the problem seemed to be corrected. There are still some, but small remnants of residue in and around the grooves and I will attend to them tonight when I have some more time to let them soak for a while. I will look into the other products suggested here and perhaps stay away from the UMC ammo. Thanks for all the suggestions. I really appreciate them.
Mike
"You cannot conquer America." -William Pitt, 17770 -
I have had the same problem with small amounts of fouling in the 'corners' of the lands. I have used the Bore Paste, and it gets them, but I don't think I want to use this every time. I have not noticed any accuracy problems when I did not get these out, but now I feel I have to get them out every now and then (some folks claim I clean too much).
Anyone have a feeling on the use of these fine abrasive compounds in routine cleaning.
If we do not hang together,
We will most certainly hang separately.0 -
There has been a device on the market for years called a Lewis Lead Remove. I think maybe Brownell's have them but I'm not sure. It used brass screen wire patches to remove lead and fouling from the forcing cone and barrel of revolvers and pistols. I have used one for years with complete success when I foul a barrel too bad for solvents to take care of. It worked just fine on a .45acp Argentine revolver that I owned that was really bad about fouling because of a pitted barrel. 0 -
Try running a dry bronze brush down the barrel a few tims before you saturate it with solvent. This happens to me also and dry brushes do the trick. Also try cleaning the barrel from the muzzle end.
Larry
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As far as pastes go...I use USP bore paste and have had really stellar luck using it! The others I tried were not only less effective but tended to be a bit "clupy" which puts me ill at ease.
"When I cease learning...I'm dead"(Me)
"Power corrupts...Absolute power corrupts absolutely"(Descartes?)
"History is written by winners"(Patton)
"You get a lot farther with a kind word and a gun than you do with a kind word alone!"(Al Capone)
"There is nothing lower than the human race...except the French" (Samuel Clemens)0
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