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makarov

jeffsfirearms
Dis-assembly for Makarov or Chinese variant----
lead me to a website??

tanx
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6 comments

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  • jeffsfirearms
    I have a W. German Makarov. Will a Walther mag fit in the pistol? If not does anyone know what will or where to get spare mags for this pistol? One of these days I'm gonna learn how to post pics. Thanks. Sam.
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  • plautus
    You must disassemble it.

    It's not the hardest thing to do yourself, but I recommend you read up a lot on it and the different kits and methods. There are several methods, i.e. cold vs. hot.

    I recommend you also practice on another item to get a feel for it.. The texture and such won't be the same, but it will give you a feel for times and cleanup.

    Get a bunch of plastic brushes too for cleanup.. Once you've blued it, you ahve to rinse and clean off all the crud.. Bluing is controlled rust, but if you leave it on, it can eat up your metal.


    ===
    "If cowardly and dishonorable men sometimes shoot unarmed men with army pistols or guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary and gallows, and not by a general deprivation of a constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
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  • 1KYDSTR
    If you are going to go at this...as mentioned, read up on the topic. The hot blue is the original way the russian military etc. die this, so you should likely try to replicate that. Keep in mind that ANY dirt or grease will screw up the blue you are trying to achieve. I've done several guns over the last few years and all turned out really, really nicely. I had to clean, then polish, and then before imersion in the salt solution clean with soap and water using a scrub brush. There is a lot of art in this operation, so I don't reccomend it for the impatient or faint of heart.

    All parts should be done seperately, down to the last pin and screw as the controlled rust will have a tendency to bind parts together. I use tag wire to hang the small parts in the solution and the part that wraps around them should, for example, be wound around the threads of the screw or some part that does not show after assembly. Your solution should bein the area of 290 to 300 degrees F; use a candy or industrial thermometer to keep it constant for the 30 min. or soit takes to get the job done. After blueing is complete, wash it again amd immediately oil the snot out of it and place it in a plastic bag for a day or so, then clean and reassemble.

    Come to think of it, Idon't have enough time or space to really go into this here, so as I said you should likely read up on it and then ask some specific questions...maybe those would be more answereable!

    "When I cease learning...I'm dead"(Me)
    "Power corrupts...Absolute power corrupts absolutely"(Descartes?)
    "History is written by winners"(Patton)
    "You get a lot farther with a kind word and a gun than you do with a kind word alone!"(Al Capone)
    "There is nothing lower than the human race...except the French" (Samuel Clemens)
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  • rufe-snow
    Reblueing at home, can be a real can of worms, i.e. getting a even, durable finish, so that the pistol looks better after you finish than when you started.

    The only thing I would recommend doing at home, WITHOUT THE PROPER EQUIPMENT, would be parkerizing, even that would be questionable, if you don't know what your doing.

    As a first step go on-line to www.brownells.com, their the biggest/best gun smith supply outfit in the country. Order their catalog, it will give you a idea of the different finishes that can be applied to firearms, and what is required, to do them.

    luger_4.jpg
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  • ern98
    Brownells makes OXPHO-BLUE, I use this with great success for both finish and durability. You can't get a polished blue with it, but you can get a great matte or satin finish. To use this product completely disassemble and degrease the parts to be blued. Bead blast, buff or use blueing remover to clean off the old finish. I bead blast. Then dip the part to be blued in a pot of boiling water for a few seconds to get it hot and open the pours. Remove from the water and with an acid brush, brush on the OXPHO. The steel part will turn black/blue, rinse in cool water, shake off/dry it and spray with WD40 or dip in thin oil to set the blue. If matte is ok then this is the best and easiest way I've found for home blueing.
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  • jeffsfirearms
    Thanks guys, looks like I have alot of studying to do. I appreciate all of you taking the time to go into such detail. Thanks again!

    Jeff
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