Cold barrel/Hot barrel-fouling the barrel??
When I shot the 7MMwsm the first two or so are always high and right after that it's dead on! I assume this is due to barrel temperature. Should one zero for cold barrels? (which would take some time if I'm not mistaken) or zero after warming things up. Which would make my first shot high and to the right, most likely causing a running and missed animal. I've heard the term "fouling my barrel". What benifit is this and will it cause pitting and lose of rifling?
Born To Hunt... Forced To Work... #@!#$!!
Born To Hunt... Forced To Work... #@!#$!!
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Most of the time change in impact point from cold to hot barrel comes from a BEDDING problem there are at least 2 schools of thought one is free floating the other is with pressure on the barrel from the stock . both have merit but is the stock contacts the barrel it should do it with equal pressure on both sides usually at about 45 degrees 0 -
quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
Most of the time change in impact point from cold to hot barrel comes from a BEDDING problem there are at least 2 schools of thought one is free floating the other is with pressure on the barrel from the stock . both have merit but is the stock contacts the barrel it should do it with equal pressure on both sides usually at about 45 degrees
This is a free floating barrel. Are you saying it needs a gunsmith's attention??
Born To Hunt... Forced To Work... #@!#$!!0 -
If as you say it is free floating this can be tested buy sliping a dollar bill around the barrel and slideing it back toward the receiver it should not touch the forearm untill the last inch or two try with both cold and hot barrel. uf it touches then sand down the high spots of the forearm if it is wood make sure to seal with a stock finish. There are also 2 schools about fouling but I like to clean my barrel and oil it I run a dry patch through it before I take it out to shoot. If your rifle changes point of impact after you check every thing then it is time for the gun smith OR zero for were the first shot hits as this is the state where at least 50 % of your shots will come from. 0 -
In my view, hunting rifles need to be "on" when the barrel is cold and the shift, if any, for 2nd and 3rd shots should be minimal.
As suggested, without making any adjustments fire the rifle until it comes to and holds at zero for an additional 2-3 rounds, then check to see if the barrel is still floating. If it isn't then you will need to open up the barrel channel and be sure to reseal if the stock is wood.
If the warm barrel is still floating then your problem lies elsewhere.
Try it and if you do find that the barrel is still floating get back to us with the length and profile of the barrel, type of stock, action bedding(if any), etc.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0 -
what kind of gun is it? browning?
ben0 -
quote:Originally posted by Contender Man
In my view, hunting rifles need to be "on" when the barrel is cold and the shift, if any, for 2nd and 3rd shots should be minimal.
As suggested..............if you do find that the barrel is still floating get back to us with the length and profile of the barrel, type of stock, action bedding(if any), etc.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!
This is a model 70 Shadow with the fiberglass stock/rubber grip bumps and a 24" barrel. I have checked for floating as asked above and it has always checked fine. "lies elsewhere" would be me right? Just wondering If there is any chance of this problem being the shooter? This was the third time out with it. Should there be no differance between hot and cold barrels? BTW Thanks guys.
Born To Hunt... Forced To Work... #@!#$!!0 -
Hello Every malfuntion "could" be the person behind the gun let some one else shoot it. as stated there are 2 schools about free floating. Loosen the action screws and install a SHIM about 1 inch back from the forarm tip MATCHBOOK cover etc to apply upward pressure then retighten screws and see if that helps or makes problem worse . don't do any thing that can't be put back to "stock" untill you find what works to improve it. 0 -
It has been my experiance with the mod 70s to remove the factory bedding, if any and rebed with one of the commercial bedding compds. Remember to tape the recoil lug to give clearance in front of and on the sides of the lug. Bedding under the enforcment of the barrel seems to help too. With hunting rifles, I usually do a complete barrel bed, with no pressure. This keeps water and other garbage from under the barrel. 0 -
No, there was no implication that the shooter is the problem as you stated that the problem is repeatable. I was thinking more along the lines of factory bedding.
As you have a synthetic stock you don't want to remove any material, or make other permanent physical changes until you are 100+% sure that what is planned will fix your problem.
Great suggestion on letting someone else fire it and see what the results are.
Lastly, in my previous response I didn't respond to your question on fouling. For the hunting season leaving the barrel uncleaned (fouled) should not cause you a problem, and this is the barrel condition (state) where you finished setting up the rifle. However, I don't think that the problem you are experienceing is due to the first shot coming from a clean barrel. But, just to prove that ... do your shooting drill to confirm that the problem is the same, then let the rifle sit until cold and fire again. Then if the problem returns you have eliminated fouling.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0 -
Check on Sniper'shide.com for all kind's of info these guys are expert's on cold bore shots etc. 0
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