M-1 Garand Problems!!
Hey guys, I have a friend that has an M-1 Garand, that he just bought, and he is having problems with it cycling after the first shot. The bolt does not close completely, and you can bump it with your hand, and it closes, and will fire the next shot, where the bolt does the same thing, hang up before it closes all the way.
I have looked at it, and it is clean, no grime or gunk, and has a very light coat of lubricant on the cycling surfaces.
Being as how I am no Garand expert, and seeing as how he left it with me to try and fix, I thought I better find the expert in this field to give me some guidence with this project.
Do any of you out there have any expert knowledge in working with the Garand, and if so, what are your recomendations for correcting this problem?
As always, thanks in advance for your input, I know you will not fail me!
Regards,
BigBarn [^][:o)][:I]
"Respect the land, and it will respect you"
I have looked at it, and it is clean, no grime or gunk, and has a very light coat of lubricant on the cycling surfaces.
Being as how I am no Garand expert, and seeing as how he left it with me to try and fix, I thought I better find the expert in this field to give me some guidence with this project.
Do any of you out there have any expert knowledge in working with the Garand, and if so, what are your recomendations for correcting this problem?
As always, thanks in advance for your input, I know you will not fail me!
Regards,
BigBarn [^][:o)][:I]
"Respect the land, and it will respect you"
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START WITH THE AMMO. CASE CLEAN, NO DIRT ETC. CHECK THE HEAD SPACE COULD BE TOO TIGHT.
I WOULD RATHER BE DUCK HUNTING.0 -
Who made the rifle (name on the receiver)?
Is there an import marking?
Did he lube the rifle with grease?
Neal0 -
Neal, it has "National Ordance Co" on the receiver, and that is about all the names I could find. The boltand the area below the bolt have light amounts of grease on them, and the charging handel has the same. That is the only lube I could see.
And while we are on the subject, how do you get one of these apart? I have never taken on down before, and am kind of a novice when it comes to this particular firearm, so any heads up any of you experts can provide me is greatly appreciated!
Regards,
BigBarn[8D]
"Respect the land, and it will respect you"0 -
Big Barn:
To take it apart: Make sure it ain't got no ammo left in it. Lock the bolt to the rear and turn it over so the trigger guard is facing up. Pull the trigger guard away from the receiver, it pivots on the front, and the entire trigger group should come right out in your hand. This frees the action from the stock and you have it. Again look for any binding of any of the action, dirt, rust, etc.0 -
quote:Originally posted by BigBarn
Neal, it has "National Ordance Co" on the receiver, and that is about all the names I could find. The boltand the area below the bolt have light amounts of grease on them, and the charging handel has the same. That is the only lube I could see.
And while we are on the subject, how do you get one of these apart? I have never taken on down before, and am kind of a novice when it comes to this particular firearm, so any heads up any of you experts can provide me is greatly appreciated!
Regards,
BigBarn[8D]
"Respect the land, and it will respect you"
Don't mean to be a bearer of bad tidings, but I'm afraid your friends basic problem is the quality of the rifle.
National Ordnance was a outfit active in Southern California from the mid 60's to the early 70's. Bunch of the early M 1's they sold were made up of scrap receivers, that were welded together from parts that had been sold as junk.
Generally it can be ascertained from the serial number. If the serial number range is between 200 & 2250, the rifle is made with a investment cast receiver. They are SUPPOSEDLY better quality then the junkyard rifles.
My WAG is that if your friends rifle isn't in the above S. N. range, the best thing he can do is to get rid of it.
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And don't sell it to anyone you want to keep as a friend!!!![8D]
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
Go to www.odcmp.org for instructions on taking it apart, or do a google search for 'Garand.'
"The Greatest Battle Implement Ever Devised!"
-- Gen. George S. Patton
referring to the M1 Garand0 -
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
quote:Originally posted by BigBarn
Neal, it has "National Ordance Co" on the receiver, and that is about all the names I could find. The boltand the area below the bolt have light amounts of grease on them, and the charging handel has the same. That is the only lube I could see.
And while we are on the subject, how do you get one of these apart? I have never taken on down before, and am kind of a novice when it comes to this particular firearm, so any heads up any of you experts can provide me is greatly appreciated!
Regards,
BigBarn[8D]
"Respect the land, and it will respect you"
Don't mean to be a bearer of bad tidings, but I'm afraid your friends basic problem is the quality of the rifle.
National Ordnance was a outfit active in Southern California from the mid 60's to the early 70's. Bunch of the early M 1's they sold were made up of scrap receivers, that were welded together from parts that had been sold as junk.
Generally it can be ascertained from the serial number. If the serial number range is between 200 & 2250, the rifle is made with a investment cast receiver. They are SUPPOSEDLY better quality then the junkyard rifles.
My WAG is that if your friends rifle isn't in the above S. N. range, the best thing he can do is to get rid of it.
rufe-snow I could be way off!!! but didn't a bunch of them make there way to early CMP'S or (DCM) forget the program before CMP.
We could learn a lot from crayons: some are sharp, some are pretty, some are dull, some have weird names, and all are different colors....but they all exist very nicely in the same box.0 -
quote:Originally posted by FrancF
rufe-snow I could be way off!!! but didn't a bunch of them make there way to early CMP'S or (DCM) forget the program before CMP.
To the best of my knowledge, all the National Ordance M1's, were sold on the civililian market. They made a whole range of firearms, .45's, M1 Carbines, 03 Springfields, during that time frame. Maybe your thinking of some of those?0 -
Sadly, rufe-snow is correct. We might be able to identify it as a reweld if you give us the serial # & the drawing # stamped on the front of the receiver; these should be consistent. (I would need to look them up in a book.)
There is still a (slight) possibility that your friend's rifle only 1 or 2 small parts replaced. Before throwing it away, I suggest that he pay a gunsmith with a set of gauges (timing block, headspace) to check it out.
Neal0 -
As always, you guys shine!
I was kinda afraid that was going to be the problem, that it is junk, but being as my knowledge of the Garand is pretty limited, I went to the "Experts"
Here is a little more info about it; Serial #5587 stamped on the back of the receiver, in front of the rear sight is stamped B8872, on the bolt is D 28287-19S A and under that is B-13 with a diamond after it. On the trigger gard is 46025 WRA and it looks like maybe a C in front of that # but the area is ground off a little, and I can't be sure.
As always, thanks for your input!
BigBarn[8D]
"Respect the land, and it will respect you"0
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