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Modify stocks with fiberglass repair kit ???

easygo6
I have asked for adult-sized stocks on 22 rimfire/17HMR rifles but received no leads.

I now want to know the material that I can use to modify the factory stock. I was thicking of adding a wood block to the butt of the stock to increase length of pull. Then wrapping the wood with auto body/marine grade fiberglass fabric saturated with fiberglass resin (the 'repair kit' type of materials.

I was planning on doing the same for the fore-end. The finished product would be camo painted.

Will the fiberglass fabric/resin adhere to material that the Savage's factory stock is made of?

Should I get a wooden stock from the factory and use that as the basis for the fiberglass modifications?

Has anyone gave this type of project a try?

Thanks guys!

SEMPER FI<BR>
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Comments

11 comments

Date Votes
  • rhmc24
    What you describe is certainly feasible. I used the same procedure to lengthen two plastic magazines for my .410 Saiga automatic. Properly prepared a camo finish would conceal the work. To be sure about whether there would be a problem with the fiberglass resin adhering to the basic stock, I tried it on a place it did't show if it failed.
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  • easygo6
    rhmc24...thank you.

    I had hoped to find someone with more experience specifically related to this subject matter. Your reply was enough to 'push me over the edge' and I'll give it a whirl.

    I'd think some of the larger shooters, who like rimfires, but can't afford Anshutz (sp) rifles, whould be looking for adult-sized stocks or a means to modify them.

    Brad


    SEMPER FI
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  • rhmc24
    You can see my magazine job on this URL:
    http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=74

    Hope this helps.
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  • Idahjo
    easygo; Concealing the texture of the laid-on fiberglass cloth is tuff. Fiberglass gel coat (as far as I know) is always commercially laid in a mould as the first step with subsequent layers of glass cloth laid-up inside. When the mould is pulled, there is a surface texture on the job matching the mould.
    If you desire to have a smooth job, I would suggest grinding the butt down for about an inch; deep enough to allow the layers of cloth/resin to finish BELOW the stock surface line.(be sure to check for the thickness of the existing 'skin' so you do not go too deep) Then use an auto body filler like body shops use to skim-finish any imperfections before final sanding and priming. (forget the name, but it can be worked easily) Bondo would also work very well for surface fill but is a little harder to work.
    Also use dense foam for the filler block, the fiberglass cloth/resin will give needed strength.
    Good Luck!
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  • easygo6
    Good point you made, Idahjo.

    Yeah, I forgot about that gel process. As I wouuld sand/shape the fiberglass layers, thos fabric stands would be fraying and projecting.

    I'll really have to plan this. May pracitice on a 2x4 first.

    I'll take your suggestion of using dense foam for underlying shape/forming too. I can get that at a hobby shop, I think.

    SEMPER FI
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  • rhmc24
    Idahjo is right. As I said: "properly prepared" a camo finish etc etc
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  • Salvage33
    If you are going to camo finish it, why not go the "easy way" and shape a block of wood and then use some sheet rock screws to attach it to the butt end of the existing stock? Sand it down properly, then just resin coat the "addition" and the seam, let it cure, sand it some more then apply the camo finish.

    John


    A friend will post your bail. A good friend will be sitting next to you in the cell saying, "man that was fun!"
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  • Idahjo
    easygo; salvage has the easiest idea.
    Before reading his response, I had an afterthought about the dense foam filler. IF you want to glass build-up the addition, I would instead do as John said with the wooden block, but make it appropriately undersized in the area around it you are going to build up with glass cloth so it all comes out just under finish surface height. Epoxy and blind screw the block in place, then do the fiberglassing. Then do the final build up with Bondo. It will work, and look good, but it will take some effort!
    Good Luck!
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  • easygo6
    What Salvage33 suggested does sound good. It is sort of what I originally planned...I did not think Bondo (or fiberglass 'bondo') would be durable enough.

    When Salvage33 refers to 'gel-coat' do you mean a bondo product or a resinous/marine product. I know it will be more effort if does with a resinous material (having to coat one side at a time) but I am afraid that will leave me with the most duarble finished product.

    If anyone can recommend a resinous product, by name/manufacturer, I would appreciate it. Otherwise I'll go to a marine sales/repair business and ask for a recommended product.

    Brad

    SEMPER FI
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  • Idahjo
    easygo;
    I used to live near an area where fiberglass boats were built, some were huge! They had a yard full of moulds that split down the middle (keel). The mould was lapstraked, smooth, or whatever they wanted to produce. The first coat (after mould release of course) was a (color)gel-coat, which was a soft butter smooth resin, then the layers of glass cloth and resin built up working inward. When cured the mold was unbolted and the halves separated. The finished product was magnificent.
    Regular automotive Bondo (pinkish color) will work well as a build-up finish over the wooden block, just be sure the surface is ROUGH for good tooth.
    I use Marine Tex (dark grey) when I bed my benchrest guns, but it is hard.. this stuff you can drill and tap! A friend uses Bondo in this Black Powder rifle forends as he often changes the barrels as he shoots competitively, and needs to revamp the forends for the new barrels. I bought a couple of Ballards from him and removed the Bondo (sands and grinds easily) and replaced it with Brownells Acura Glass Gel, which is invisible after tinting, making it better against walnut finishes.
    Bondo will allow for painting to seal the job, and will probably be the easiest thing to build it up with unless you want to work a little harder and use the Marine Tex.
    Just to give you an idea how tuff Marine Tex is, I used it on a Rem 700 bolt to attach clearance build-up rings instead of sweat soldering them. That was ten years ago and it is still like new!
    Sorry to ramble, but that should answer your questions. Good Luck!
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  • agman1999
    If you do use fiberglass, try laying out the glass and resin on wax paper, then applying the whole mess (wax paper out, obviously). It leaves a pretty smooth finish. I've done fast auto body repairs this way, and they didn't require much finish work afterwards.
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