NEW to reloading but want to start big
I will be reloading pistol ammo 9mm, .38, .357, .40, .45 so I want to get a progressive press. Have about $1000 set aside for this so what are the best ones out there.
I want to be able to dump in a bunch of primers, brass, leads, powder and just sit back and pull the handle like I was in Vegas.
I want to be able to dump in a bunch of primers, brass, leads, powder and just sit back and pull the handle like I was in Vegas.
0
-
I got into reloading in the same fashion. I Went with the Hornady Lock-n-Load auto progressive. I got it when they first come out. Now they have case feed, and the works. The die change for calibers is a breeze. There customer service is the best. Just like the Dillon, if you break anything, they replace it free with no questions asked. I use my auto for pistol round in 10mm, 40S&W, .45.
I loved the Lock-n-Load so much, I bought a single stage to reload my hunting and target rifle rounds with. You can use the Hornady Lock-n-Load as a single stage press, just omit some of the steps. I don't know if you can do that with Dillon or the others.
I love my Hornady, and recommend it to everybody that asks.0 -
Wagion, even with a progressive, you need to do a bit more than simply "dump in" the ingredients and pull a handle. You must fill the primer tubes and individually place each bullet in the case mouth . . . not to mention pulling QC checks at regular intervals.
I don't know anything about the Hornady. However, I love my Dillon.
I'm going to fly in the face of your post and suggest you *start* with a single stage unit, however.
First, because you will need more than just the press - a good scale, some manuals, a caliper, deburring tools, etc. Figure $200 - $300 for this. Then die sets. You will need four (you can use .38 Spl tools for the .357, but typically not the converse depending on the brand). WITHOUT DOUBT, you should buy sets with carbide sizing dies. There's another $150 - $200. And you will need components - both large and small primers, a variety of powders, brass if you don't already have it, and bullets.
Second, you will develop a "feel" for the reloading process with a single stage and be more sensitive to the symptoms of the problems which inevitably arise. I feel very strongly about this. I've seen many people start with progressives and - JMHO - most would have been better served by starting with the single stage. A lot can go wrong if you don't have everything set right and it will be far more noticeable with the single stage. Once you've loaded a few thousand rounds with the single, you will have expertise you can transfer to the progressive.
Third, a single stage is *always* useful. It takes time to set up a progressive. When doing load development, typically one produces no more than 100 - 200 rounds and then goes back to tweak some more, which inevitably involves some adjustment. Much faster to do this with the single stage and where you are beginning and don't know which loads will give you the best results in your particular firearms, you will need to do the R&D. Down the road, you may wish to load rifle cartridges. Even with the progressive, I still do my rifle loading with the single stage for a variety of reasons - especially the greater control / sensitivity and greater ease to deal with case lubrication (essential on any bottle necked round).
Fourth, while unlikely, some people jump into reloading and decide they don't like it, don't have time for it, whatever. You will have much more tied up in a progressive and the tools it requires than you will with a single stage if you decide to bail out.
JMHO; I'm sure there are folks who would disagree with some or almost all of my points.
"There is nothing lower than the human race - except the French." (Mark Twain) ". . . And liberals / DemoWipes" (me)0 -
New and want to start BIG ....
Go full throttle into a top end progressive press !
I will gaurantee you will have a BIG outcome.
If you like to reload, you will need a 'single' press sooner or later anyway. Iconoclast has the best advice. I don't know of anyone that works up a load with a progressive. But 8 of 10 of the guys that load at the range won't load 9mm... Me either...it is too cheap to buy decent ammo. If you really wanted a pet 9mm load that was at the fringes of the loading data, you would want to do that on a single press anyway. If you want to load rifle loads, that is a single press job, and rifle loads (and magnum pistol loads) are where you save the most money. For most it is not just the money... it is getting that load that works for your gun that is not available anywhere else.
Start with a single setup, you will need some of the gear to check up on a progressive anyway. If you sell it later, you will get enough money back. I will stop ... go with Iconoclasts advice.
If we do not hang together,
We will most certainly hang separately.0 -
Iconoclast summed it up rather nicely. You can blow through that $1000 you have set aside just in periperal equipment, calipers, die's etc. Thats $150 to $200 per die set. And there is no just pulling the handle like a slot machine. Again Icono nailed it with placing each bullet in the shell, periodic quality assurence check, taking the powder out of shell you just reloaded and measure, etc etc etc.....best advice, start smaller and master one caliber before moving on. Dillon, RCBS, Fireside, and Billings are all good. I prefer Dillon 0 -
a dillon commercial loader. call them for quotes. they even load cases and have motors running everything. 0 -
I'll also recommend the Hornady-Lock-N-Load but agree with Iconoclast that you should learn on a single stage press.The beauty of the Hornady is auto index and it does a great job on rifle cartridges.I load for .32ACP to 7mm Mag on mine.Don't forget a good reloading manual and see if you can get a video. Good Luck.
[:p][:)][^][8D][:)][:p][:D][^]
And Remember a Wet Dog Doesn't Fly at Night.
I'm not to sure about a cat?
ATF,Eagle Guns0 -
Another vote for Iconoclast's idea.
I started out driving my family nuts with a Lee Loader and a plastic mallet when I was 19. Went on to a RCBS rockchucker a year or so later and still use that press (24 years later) for a lot of things like decapping primers before tumbling and loading small amounts of rifle rounds.
I am another Dillon fan but have never had a problem with RCBS or Lyman either. RCBS has sent me die parts when I broke them, usually with a stone or a smaller case stuck inside a larger case, Lyman just repaired a powder scale at no charge when it got broke by careless handling. And Dillon has mailed me parts and even replaced my huge tumbler and electronic scale with new updated versions at no cost.
If everyone backed their products like the gun industry-the sales of non-U.S. products would be non existent (instead of our current state of "use- it-and-throw-it-away".
If I were starting all over-I would probably go with the Dillon RL650 when I was ready to upgrade instead of the RL550 but I can't justify moving to the 650 when I have all the conversions for the 550 already-in fact I have 2 550's-one set for large and one set for small primers so I don't have to change the primer set-ups when changing calibers and since I have 2 boys-they can each have one when I can't pull the handle anymore. They have each loaded a small mountain of ammo-for me and others to practice with before, during and after the police academy as well as keeping my kids in ammo.
By the way- I still have the Lee Loader and it still works as well. Just my thoughts.0 -
If you buy a used Rock Chucker for $30-$50 (knowing you'll be moving up why buy new?) you'll never regret it and never get rid of it either ... that is if you like reloading [}:)]
I can say this because I still use mine for odd jobs like pulling bullets and loading primed brass (Turkish 8mm mostly).If you really want to do something, you'll find a way ...
.
.
... If you don't, you'll find any excuse.0 -
I used a Rock Chucker for years. A few weeks ago I bought a Dillon 550B. Should have done that years ago. Still have the Rock Chucker, though. 0 -
I NEVER see a used Rock Chucker around here. Guys just hold on to them forever.
I went with Teak's advise, after six months of side-stepping.
RCBS Carbide Dies .357/.38 LNIB, look never used, $26.00 delivered Fleabay
Lee Anniversary kit Used twice, $35 + $12.50 delivery, from a guy on a reloading forum.
http://www.reloadbench.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi
And a member here sent me a better scale.
I just need the primer seater and I'm set to learn the basics, the "feel" he's talking about.
And bullets, primers, and powder.0 -
That statement really scared me. You definately need to crawl before you walk much less run. Too many things to go wrong. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
11 comments