8mm Mauser
My father put a 8mm Mauser onto one of those synthetic stocks. It has the rail and he wants a cheap but decent scope. Give me some suggestions, it would be a surprise if I got him something nice.
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I have a old 8mm mauser that I'm trying to use as a hunting gun but have problem getting spent cartridge out of barrel. I'm using new ammo not surplus can anyone help me 0 -
Shoey,
If it is in good shape that is a very good price. Before you buy it PLEASE, PLEASE have it checked by a competent gunsmith. Some 98's of late WWII were of not as good quality and china made some unsafe copies.If it is a good one and you buy it, in the future it will be a good candidate for customizing. Try Natchez shooting Sports (WWW.NATCHEZSS.COM), Sportsmans Guide or Cheaper Than Dirt for ammo.
Good Luck and ENJOY,
Lance
10's Rule
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Once you have determined your gun is safe, look around for some 8mm that came from a european source like Norma, etc.. They load them up hotter over there than in the USA to more of the rounds potential. -- Best bet is to handload some if you load or a friend does. -- The only cheap ammo will be surplus military stuff and the FMJ bullets aren't any good for hunting and generally aren't that accurate, but are fun to plink and practice with............[8D] 0 -
Norma is the way to go and I would think that as expensive as it is you should be able to find a source semi-lically that can do a hell of a lot better price wise than that!!! Always good advice to have the weapon run through by a good gunsmith and make sure a no-go gauge will not close...beyond that, if it is a German, Chech, Polish or swedish made Mauser, as late as 1945 the action is going to still be sound!!! The furniture and cosmetics kind of went in the toilet but there was no dimunition in the quality of the action of the standard K-98K. Good advice to stay away from the chinese copies and older Chiang-Ki Shek era guns as they either had bad steel or are of the older Gew or even older design which might prove to be less that healthy to shoot! Look on the top of the reciever ring; there shouold be a series of leters and perhaps a 2 digit year code. Post back with these and the guys here who have code books will likely tell you where and when it was made and generally how good the quality is! Have fun looking nad make an informed decision...these guns can give you many years of joyous service!!
"When I cease learning...I'm dead"(Me)
"Power corrupts...Absolute power corrupts absolutely"(Descartes?)
"History is written by winners"(Patton)
"You get a lot farther with a kind word and a gun than you do with a kind word alone!"(Al Capone)
"There is nothing lower than the human race...except the French" (Samuel Clemens)0 -
thanks....another question, what is the exact designation for the round? I see 7.92x57J, 7.92x57JS, 8x57J, 8x57JR, and so on....norma, sellier dont list 8mm Mauser, but they list the above. I will be sure to go to the store when I'm ready to buy and copy the serial number, ask them to hold the gun overnight, and post it back here...but again, I'm in the research stage right now....saw some good looking guns, and looking at the stock, they look like they'd be fairly easry to sporterize and add a recoil pad to...cut the pad to fit, and get rid of the upper handguard, the bayonet lug if there, chop some of that long lower stock off...should make a good summer/fall project gun...one more question...are most of these guns treated in cosmoline? I know that stuff can be a pain, but for 130 bucks, I think its worth it for a mauser action...
shoey0 -
To your question on 8x57 ammo, if it is indeed a 98 Mauser you will need the 7.92x57JS ammo which has a .323 bullet, as any with only J as suffix use a .318 bullet.
On the issue of cosmoline, that stuff ain't so bad. Gunk foaming engine brite a soft nylon brush as well as a nylon bore brush cleans that stuff up in a jiffy, be shure to follow up with a good bore solvent and gun oil afterwards to remove any moisture from the Gunk.
Hope you enjoy you Mouser LOL. I certainly enjoy all of mine.[:)]0 -
I was going to do a little more checking first, but since this is in the air I will ask.
I had a 98 bring back that got stolen a few years ago. When the Yugos flooded the market I bought a couple to pass to my boys.
After a cleanup, we went to the range with some Remington 8mm that I had left from the bring back. It shot just fine, but did not always want to feed the soft point. I neck sized a few cases and loaded with a Sierra Spitzer (.32) w/o de-capping or adding powder to make a snap cap. When I fed it in, all was well until bolt closure. I had a little resistance that I wrote off to neck only sizing...BUT when I pulled it out the bullet had some serious scrapping w/curls on one side. The bullet mics at .322 and the OAL is under specs.
ANY chance of a .318 ? , if so how lucky can I be to fire 20 rounds of the old Rem 8mm (.323) ?
If we do not hang together,
We will most certainly hang separately.0 -
GSF, take a set of calipers to the muzzel and measure it. If you don't own a set, take it to someone who does. 0 -
O.K. ...here we go with the poor mans solution! Find a soft lead (avoid projectiles that have a lot of tin or antimony!!) .338 bullet or ask for one from a fellow reloader who shoots practice loads in their .338. Liberally lube the bullet next. Using a WOOD or rubber mallet drive it in the muzzle about "3/8 of an inch. Use a pair of square jaw pliers to pull it carefully out of the muzzle and then use your calipers on that. It is marginally more accurate than using the calipers in the bore method plus your not using hardened tool steel anywhere near the rifling. Rifling is usually even numbered lands in these Mausers, it is still sometimes hard to get a good cross measure from one to another. You could also just go tothe tackle box and test until you get a sinker (these are also usually dead soft) just a litle bigger than the grooves and drive it all the way through but I don't know that I reccomeng that as the rod, whrn being used as a driver will have a tendency to slap offthe walls of the barrel each time you hit it! This is a poor man's method as mentioned but has worked fine for me over the years and if appropriate care is taken should be plenty safe and passably accurate for your purposes!
"When I cease learning...I'm dead"(Me)
"Power corrupts...Absolute power corrupts absolutely"(Descartes?)
"History is written by winners"(Patton)
"You get a lot farther with a kind word and a gun than you do with a kind word alone!"(Al Capone)
"There is nothing lower than the human race...except the French" (Samuel Clemens)0 -
shoey;
when sluging the bore of any gun, use soft lead as mentioned. a good source is "pencil lead sinkers" sold by most fishing tackle dealers. buck shot from a shotgun shell also is a good source of soft lead.
your hardware or building supply will have wood dowel stock in 3 or 4 foot lengths for about a buck apiece. 5/16 diameter will do nicely for fit on an 8mm bore.
1) tap a soft lead pellet into the barrel using a hard wood block or wood hammer handle.
2) support the lead piece with a section of wood dowel thru the breech & tap the lead from the muzzle until it fills the bore.
3) remove the slug & measure the outside (major) diameter.
if you don't have a good caliper or mic, ask a gunsmith or machinist to measure it for you.
"all I really need to know I learned in kindergarten" Robert Fulghum
anyone who says "nobody needs a full auto" has never been in front of a brown bear charge0
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