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info. on custom mauser

cussedemgun
I have a Mauser;

the action is a commercial 98 large ring with ser. #3320 on the front ring, right side. it has Belgian proof marks on the left side of the front reciever ring.

the barrel is ser. # to match the action. left side of barrel near the action is a repeat of the Belgian proof marks. aread of the proof stamps is "338 winch B.Blindee". on top of the barrel about midway is "H.Dumoulin Milmort-Liege made in Belgium"

the stock is oil finished walnut, hand checkered, has an ivory inlay, diamond shaped on both sides midway between bolt handle & recoil lug/cross bolt. it is full length Mannlicher style.

by chance can someone supply me with any info. on this rifle?
who is the maker, the firm name, or any other info. would be helpful.

"all I really need to know I learned in kindergarten" Robert Fulghum


anyone who says "nobody needs a full auto" has never been in front of a brown bear charge
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4 comments

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  • nononsense
    cussedemgun,

    I could answer most of it but the B. Blindee fooled me. Now, I'm not saying that all of this applies to your rifle but the basic information does. Here is a similar question asked in 2001:

    DUMOULIN RIFLE, A TREASURE!

    I recently picked up a gun at a local gun show in Nebraska, USA. The gun first appeared to be a commercial F.N. Mauser. It looked like the original bolt shroud had been removed and an aftermarket trigger had been installed. The action has the typical Mauser extractor with no thumb slot for a stripper clip. The gun has all the right proof marks for export from the European market. The barrel has 3 names on it and "Made in Belgium" stamped on it. The names stamped in the barrel are 1) H. Dumoulin 2) Milmorte-Li?ge 3) B. Blind?e.

    I was wondering if you might have any knowledeg of these manufacturers. The stock is a pretty decent piece of walnut with 22 lines/inch checkering. The blueing is pretty light with many bare metal parts showing through. I run a custom gun shop and was wondering if I should re-blue and re-finish the stock or leave it alone. I own several commercial Mausers but have never seen one like this. Any information or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, Terry (USA).

    Manufacturer of your rifle is H. DUMOULIN; a well-known Belgian manufacture of high-quality firearms, usually shotguns. Milmorte-Li?ge is an address of Dumoulin plant; suburb of town Li?ge, the firearms industry center of Belgium. In another suburb, Herstal, are the plants of Fabrique National (F.N.) company. Actually all the firearms made in Belgium went via this town for proof. Stamp B. BLIND?E (Balles Blind?e; French) means: "(for) jacketed bullets". Your Dumoulin rifle is made purposely for hunting. It is not a sporterized & re-barreled military Mauser. And it hasn't been an inexpensive purchase to it's first owner.

    A walnut stock is presumably not lacquered but impregnated with linseed oil. Re-finishing of it may be done by washing with a dilute solution of some detergent. (In Finland is popular the dish washer powder. Contains about 75 % sodium hydroxide - Caustic Soda. Really efficient). Rinse the stock with hot water after washing and let it dry in the room temperature. Takes day or two. If needed, brush the checkering grooves open with a toothbrush. Then rub the linseed oil with the palm of hand on the stock. Let it to become absorbed into the wood. Repeat rubbing until wood take up no more oil. Apply also some linseed oil into gutters of barrel and receiver of the stock and to the mortises of magazine, trigger mechanism, recoil lug and tang of receiver. Let the oil to dry in warm place some days or a week. Polish - if needed - the stock with a nylon stocking or leotards crosswise to the direction of wood fibres.

    There are not too many gunsmithing shops able to carry out the "Lege Artis" blueing of metal parts with original "browning & bluing" method. Most gunsmiths (and manufactures) prefers the puffing the gun parts and cooking them in some alkaline sodium nitrate solution, which stains the steel glossy black. This method is actually not BLUEING; it is BLACKENING. Yess; the puffed and blackened metal parts are beautiful, but so re-blued surface is not done "by the Rules of Art". Preferably, let the steel parts to be as they are!

    Definitely, do not use any "cold blue" chemicals for re-blueing of steel. They may render the metal surface to look like a steel blued with "rust blueing" method, looking good when lubricated, but this color is far from permanent. It is not a lasting ferric oxydule skin, but just the iron stained with selenium acid. I call almost all of the cold blueing chemicals as "Bottled Treachery". Sole exception is "PLUM BROWN BARREL FINISH" of BIRCHWOOD CASEY, but it is (or was) a browning chemical, which stain the iron or steel brown, and it must be applied on the heated steel; not on the cool metal.

    Your rifle is more valuable than you could imagine when you bought it. Don't do or let anybody do anything which may lessen the value of your original Dumoulin.

    http://guns.connect.fi/gow/QA16.html
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  • cussedemgun
    nononsense;

    Thank you much for your work on researching this for me. The info. you provided is almost as good as talking with the maker himself
    (I said ALMOST). And again THANK YOU. Jim

    "all I really need to know I learned in kindergarten" Robert Fulghum


    anyone who says "nobody needs a full auto" has never been in front of a brown bear charge
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  • nononsense
    I had to laugh after reading that post from the other site. It was too close to being just what you were asking. Pretty funny!

    Best of luck with your Mauser!
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  • eclipse71
    OMG.

    I have the exact same rifle,
    exept the #serial number and the caliber 7x57
    She's in Good shape, no more.

    What's the value of my rifle ??????????
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