Ar15 help
Looking at purchasing my first AR15. Looked at Bushmasters today at Cabelas because I have a bunch of cabelas points to spend.
If I want to be under $1000 it appears Bushmaster is almost my only option. I would like your opinion on the Carbon for $699 and the O.R.C for $899. Is there something different I should be looking at?
Since both of these don't have iron sights, can they be added if I want to shoot it that way? If so, how much would they cost to add?
The gun will be mostly used for target and some hunting. Thanks for the help.
If I want to be under $1000 it appears Bushmaster is almost my only option. I would like your opinion on the Carbon for $699 and the O.R.C for $899. Is there something different I should be looking at?
Since both of these don't have iron sights, can they be added if I want to shoot it that way? If so, how much would they cost to add?
The gun will be mostly used for target and some hunting. Thanks for the help.
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Hello.
I wanted to get in to Ar15 business after I shot one (Bushmaster) at my local range. My budget allows me to spend around 700 for a shooter. I was looking at Bushmaster and some of the models get kind of pricy. I was thinking about buying lower and upper separately (possibly slightly used). I got Bushmaster Lower for 235$(used) Now I am looking for upper and I see some descriptions as " upper receiver is Small Pin" Since I had not played with Ar's that much here are my questions.
1) Is there difference between small pin and large pin (which is better)?
2) As far as upper which one should I get (I will mostly use it for target shooting)
3) I saw some varmint upper (24inch bull barrel) and as far as accuracy goes what barrel (length) should I get, barrel twist.
Reason I asked last question is that there is something about AR15 (the look of gun with carry handle and front sight that it just makes u wanna shoot it)0 -
I am not gonna be a lot of help. I have heard of guys buying the uppers and lowers separately to 'spread their payments'. That is fine. Get as high quality upper as you can afford. There are a lot of outfits selling discounted uppers that they assemble from parts..you often get discount performance.
The lower is nothing to ignore either but most improvement (in TARGET SHOOTING as you indicated) is realized with full stocks and match trigger groups. Match triggers are usually a $90-$115 option in an upper, a $120 and upward option to install after-market.
The rifles are capable of excellent accuracy if you spend a little to get it. Otherwise the discounted 'kit guns' spread rumors about per performance and poor accuracy. Sve a while longer and you will enjoy the rifle, and get better re-sale (if you can ever bear to part with it).
Reasonbly priced target models (DCM with the front sight, as you indicated) are available from Bushmaster and commonly receive high marks relative to their cost. If you want optics, I'd suggest a 'flat-top' upper from Rock River Arms.
Get a barrel length of at least 16" (excluding any compensator or muzzle brake).
If you are going to shoot at targets further than 250 yards or so (target/varmint) and desire MOA accracy you'll want to launch heavier bullets that have a higher ballistic coefficient and 'buck wind' better. You need a faster twist rate to launch these heavier bullets accurately due to their longer length (more weight).
If you still want acceptable performance with 55-62 grain (most surplus and bulk ammo from major mfrs) too fast a twist can generate excessive copper fouling in the first portion of the barrel if you are shooting hundreds of rounds in short periods of time. A faster than required twist is usually not detremental to accuacy if barrel temps are kept lower and the shooter is not just 'rattling off rounds'. Fast twists have been documented as detremental under extreme velocity conditions and/or pre-fragmented bullets.
I do not want to comment much on the large and small pin assemblies. There is no performance edge to either. It is a legal/political matter. I think the 'large pin' models were marketed (primarily by Colt) to prevent interchangeability between 'pre' and 'post' ban assemblies.
Maybe a better 'expert' on this subject will step up.
SEMPER FI0 -
I'm no large pin/small pin expert, but I know what they are: The pins that hold the upper and lower together (there are two of them) come in two sizes. And yes, this is Colt's method of preventing interchangeability between pre- and post-ban uppers and lowers. I have a post-ban Bushmaster but do not know if the pins are large or small. Look around for measurements and use a caliper to figure yours out.
The short story is that you have to get an upper that matches your lower, regarding the pin size.
Now, as to what upper to get...I have the Bushmaster A3 Shorty. 16" barrel with detachable carry handle (that's the A3 part). I like it - the iron sights are a joy to use. I don't know if the front sight would be in the way of a rail-mounted scope or not - it's mostly a non-issue to me as I do my long-range shooting with my Winchester model 70.
I recommend a 16" barrel - you won't lose a ton of accuracy but you will gain a lot in ergonomics - the carbines balance and "tuck" better than the full-length AR-15's do.
Don't listen too much to what the previous reply said about a match trigger in the upper - the entire fire control group is contained in the lower receiver, with the only moving part in the upper being the bolt carrier assembly (not counting things you have to manually move, such as the sight, bolt catch, forward assist, and dust cover). I don't have a match-grade trigger in my AR-15, but see my previous comment about what I shoot long-range with. I am plenty accurate with the Bushmaster as it came from the factory.
I think a 1:7" twist barrel is what you want, but I'm not an expert on that, either. I think that's the fastest twist they make, at any rate.0 -
I'm not sure, but I think Colt was the only one to use the large pin. 0 -
Look at the Olympic Arms websight. They had a good reputation for accuracy. You will want either a 1 in 8 or 1 in 9 twist and at least a 20" heavy stainless barrel for target shooting. If you're serious on target shooting, figure on getting a target trigger and a free floating handguard.
When you decide it would be nice to have a handy light carbine, pick up a medium weight or M-4 configuration barrelled upper.
I have four or five different uppers plus one in 6mm and haven't decided which I like best.
If you're reasonably good with tools you can build your own uppers.
Except for the Colt small pin ARs all other uppers and lower parts seem to interchange well between major brands.
Look at AR15.com for guidance from specialists.0 -
Second going to www.ar15.com Most will tell you to go with an upper from JT (excellent quality, shaw barrel, FN upper, all milspec and put together by people who know what they are doing, matches the finish on a bushy lower very well). You can get a "kit" that will give you an assembled upper incl bolt and charging handle with lower internals and a stock for $450. Sell the stock and keep the lower internals for spare parts...My .02 0 -
Colt produced some lowers and uppers with large pivot pin holes. All the other Mil-Spec manufacturers use the "small" 1/4" pivot pin hole size. Any mil-spec upper will work with your Bushmaster lower. I would say the small hole is better because of it dominance in the market. There is a conversion pin that allows large hole components to be used with small hole - cost about $10. As for what upper to buy, Olympic Arms has a lifetime warranty and they offer a wide range of barrel lengths and configurations. However, Bushmaster always gets rave reviews, as does Rock River Arms, Armalite , and Colt. All things being equal, stainless steel barrels are the most accurate, then comes chrome moly, and chrome lined. As to barrel length, longer typically equals more accurate, to a point. The reason for this is sight radius, and velocity. Bull barrels are also more accurate because the heaver barrels have reduced "Barrel Harmonics" (barrel vibration). Now to add even more to the mix, the chambering. There are three common .223 caliber chamberings for the AR. .223 Remington, 5.56 NATO, and .223 Wylde. The .223 Remington chambering is typically found on match grade rifles and you should not shoot 5.56 NATO ammo in those rifles. Then there is 5.56 NATO, used by the military, a higher chamber pressure ammo than .223 Remington, typically not as accurate as .223 Remington, but you can shoot both 5.56 NATO ammo and .223 Remington ammo safely in rifles chambered for 5.56 NATO. Then finally there is .223 Wylde (offered by Rock River Arms) It is a chambering somewhat between 5.56 NATO and .223 Remington and is suppose to give you a match grade rifle and allow you to shoot both .223 Remington and 5.56 NATO ammunition. 0 -
You might want to look around on www.ar15.com just to see what they talk about there. Of course, you'll get the extreme sides/opinions occasionally but still, you can pick up a few things by just reading. 0
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