Welding.

May 01, 2004 06:16

Hi everyone! My first post here, what a great resource!

OK, I've got this FN Mauser 98 action which I'm building into a sporter, prolly in .338 Winchester Mag. It used to be a full bore target rifle, and as such, the rear ring of the action has been drilled tapped to suit the mount for a "Central" appeture sight. Unfortunately the holes don't match up with the holes in the Leupold scope bases I've bought, so one will have to be filled up & re drilled.

I've been thinking that making up a tight fitting copper plug (where the bolt would normally go) to act as a heat sink, and filling the hole with a blob of tig weld or braze would work, but I just dunno. I don't want to stuff it up as it's got a fair bit of sentimental value.

Can anyone offer any ideas?

thanks.

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8 comments

Horse Plains Drifter

May 01, 2004 06:55
I would NOT weld on a rifle reciever under any circumstances!

If the project was mine I would drill and tap the hole several sizes bigger. I would then make a threaded plug and install it in the hole secured with Loctite 271(high strength). I would then drill and tap the plug in the size and location needed.

This can all be done accurately with a machine vise and a milling machine. I would not expect good results with a hand held drill in a bench vise.

81st FA BN WWII...Thanks Dad
U!S!A! ALL THE WAY!!
0
only winchesters

May 01, 2004 06:58
Welcome to the forum! Have you thought about modifying the scope bases? A lot less risky. Or you could take you bases to a good machine shop and have some custom ones made, using your as a pattern, and have the holes drilled where you need them. Just a thought.
Regards Dave
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nononsense

May 01, 2004 07:01
NCR 600,

Just buy a blank base and put the holes in the base at the appropriate spacing. Not difficult and better than welding up.

MT357,

Receivers get welded on all the time. Sometimes it has to be heat treated again but it is not uncommon at all. Engravers have receivers drawn back all the time so that they can engrave on them more easily and the send them off for heat treat.
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NCR 600

May 01, 2004 07:15
Thanks everyone!
Thinking about it sensibly, the best thing to do is to slot out one of the holes in the scope base, as it's the frictional force between the two parts that hold them together, not the screws. As I'm a toolmaker I can do this myself pretty easily. I think I got kinda side tracked on an interchangeability of parts issue!

Just for arguments sake though, if I were to weld, what process would be best?

Anyway, I've answered my own question with a little help, but it's been a good excuse to make my first posts here![8D] I'm sure I'll be making more in the future.
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OleDuk

May 01, 2004 12:57
NCR, where on the receiver would you be welding; on the front ring or on the bridge. Welding on the bridge has little if any detrimental effect. Welding on the front ring is another story.
OleDuk
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ern98

May 01, 2004 13:34
You say "bases" so I assume that you have the 2 piece set. Have you tired lining uo a one piece base? The rear mount hole is often in enough of a different location that you can just drill and tap a new one. good luck.
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Horse Plains Drifter

May 01, 2004 18:56
nononsense, I agree with you. I didn't realize that anyone would go to the effort to draw, weld and re-heat treat a reciever. As long as it is done by professionals who know what they are doing it should be just fine. I am more used to working with the gypo logger types who would just start welding without a clue as to what they are doing.

81st FA BN WWII...Thanks Dad
U!S!A! ALL THE WAY!!
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rhmc24

May 02, 2004 05:59
A lot of good info. Good suggestions how to avoid welding. I would not hesitate to TIG weld on the rear ring. The bolt locks on the front ring, does it not? TIG welding produces very local heat. Mig might be even better. Gas welding is another story, a lot of general red heat, raising the possible need of re-heat-treatment as suggested above.
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Welding.

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