Barrel vice/wrench question
I have been pondering buying an action wrench/vice for awhile... if I had gotten one a few years back it would have paid for itself by now. My question is, looking at the stuff on midway, I see I need the wrench... but the vice? Any reason I can't just drill out an oak block somewhat undersized to the barrel, cut it in half, and clamp it in a regular bench vise, then go to work with the wrench?
My interest is mainly in taking the barrel of the occasional mauser that has seen better days and installing another used mauser barrel in better shape, i.e. not new factory barrels, just for kicks... and checking headspace of course.
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf
My interest is mainly in taking the barrel of the occasional mauser that has seen better days and installing another used mauser barrel in better shape, i.e. not new factory barrels, just for kicks... and checking headspace of course.
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf
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You might consider picking up a small bag of rosin ( sporting goods stores ), sprinkle between blocks and barrel, before tightning up the vise. 
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You may not get enough "grip" to turn out a barrel that has been installed for over 60 years with wood block but you can install a barrel in this way no problem. the problem with good old barrels is the chance of sights lineing up is slim to none then you need a lathe to turn shoulder down and new chamber reamer.You can allways put old barrel in vice if you don't care that you deface it. cheers Karl 0 -
this is just what I wanted to know. Thanks guys. If the sights don't line up, generally they can be melted and re-soldered, which I am equipped to do. I just don't want to buy more than I need to.
Specifically at the moment I have a brazillian 34 reciever and stock but with a totally rusted out, almost smooth barrel... and a large ring argie mauser barrel that is off of a sporter (had 5" chopped off the metal) that is in otherwise nice shape. It has been reamed to 30-06. See where I'm going with this?[:)]
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf0 -
Jonk,
You really do need a barrel vise to remove a barrel. The "C" type vise will not do. I have modified and used a pipe vise as a poor substitute, but finally ordered a barrel vise with the two opposed bolts. The ease with which I separated a 1916 VC Shilling G98 was astounding.
Never have used wood blocks, only aluminum. Can't advise there.
Best,
Mike
Men have passed on...knowledge...yet in politcs, statecraft, and social relationships we continue to repeat old mistakes.
It is a thing I must remember, that men must always remember, that civilization is a flimsy cloak, and just outside are hunger, thirst, and cold.....waiting. L'Amour0 -
You can use a pipe wrench with about a 5' pipe extension on the barrel you're going to scrap anyway. Try the hardwood blocks and rosin on the replacement barrel. 0 -
I had an old Mauser that I was having a tough time getting the barrel off of and I don't know if this helped or I got lucky.I put the barreled action in the freezer a few days and when I was ready to work on it again I got a pot of water boiling and held it by the barrel and dipped the action in the water.The barrel came off fairly easy. 0 -
Well I hear some differing opinions so I think I'll TRY just the regular vice first, and if it works for me, great, an if not I'll order the real deal. Thanks guys.
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf0 -
A regular barrel vise will apply many time more clamping force than a bench vise. I have turned some barrels out or in with wood blocks and a bench vise but it won't work on tight ones.
Mobuck0 -
We use about a 6' square of 1.5" thisck steel plate with about a 2" hole bored through the center. This block was then sliced in half through the 9-3 o'clock positions with the band saw. We bored a hole vertically (opposite to barrel hole) on each side of the 2" hole(actually easier before it's sliced in half) through which we use 7"x3/4" bolts to secure the whole assembly to the steel workbench. We have about a dozen sets of brass or aluminum blocks with varied hole sizes and tapers(also sliced in half)to fit most barrels. Find the blocks that fit the contour of the barrel the closest and clamp it down. Always use LOTS of rosin. 0 -
Barrel contours vary. So what fits-holds one barrel wont do on another. I use wooden blocks, with lead sheet in between them, and hammer the lead to fit well, before tightening the vise. Also, use "double sticky" carpet tape, and the barrel is a lot less likely to slip in the blocks. 0
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