Bore Sighting
Hi, I have a nice Leopold on my Remington 7400, (.3006) and I was at the range trying to site it in. After beating my shoulder to death, I switched over to my model 70 cause frankly I was frustrated. My question, for whoever might look at this post, is: Is bore sighting accurate, and can anyone give me some tips on this. I'm planning on just taking it down and paying the 10 bucks and letting the boys at the store bore site it in for me. I'd appreciate if anyone has any knowledge on this. I've been all handguns, and open sites up to this point. I'm breaking into target shooting now, and it would be a huge help to have a working scope. Thanks. Unysis1@aol.com
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Look thru barrel and see neighbors birdhouse.
Look thru scope and crosshairs way left.
How do I adjust scope?
Sage 10 -
Bore sighting is just a way to get you on paper. Dosn't matter who does it, what equipment they use, or how many they've done, that's all they can acheive.
What I do is to punch the primer out of a fired case, remove the bolt, insert my "modified" case into the chamber and with the rifle in a cradle or firmly propped with sand bags adjust the scope to look to the same point I see by looking thru the primer hole.
For final sight in
Place a 3' square of paper (with a aiming point in the center) at 25yd. Fire 1 round. Adjust the crosshairs (remember you will need to move them 4 times as much at this range IE 16 clicks/inch) to correct the POI and repeat until your centered L-R and 0-1" high.
Now move your target down to the 100yd line and fine tune (repeat at 200 & 300 if desired, also good way to test the actual vs calculated drop/windage adjustments).
With your 7400 (or a lever action) you might want to pick up a small mirror or prisem so you can see "around the corner".
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
The above method works well, though I don't use the deprimed brass I just center the object in the bore of the barrel. What should be pointed out is that bore sighting sets can be had for real very reasonable prices these days. I saw "Cheaper then Dirt" advertising the "BSA" set for like $30 in their last flyer. If you think that you may end up with multipal rifles and scopes that bouce from one rifle to another then you might just think about getting a bore sighting set. I own one of the BSA sets and it gets me on paper in nothing flat. 0 -
Bore sighting does work. the method of useing a empty case with primer removed only works on a action with a removeable bolt the last REM. 7400 i saw was semi auto so this method won't work the type of "BORE SIGHT" with a spud to fit the bore and a lens with crossed marks do work but just to get you close they also make dummy cartridges with a lazer in them that you load in chamber and it projects a red dot on target then you adjust cross hair to hit red dot 0 -
ern
Knocking the primer out gives you a "peep sight" effect, which reduces the error for those that don't do it often. That's the only advantage.
Perry
See last sentence, Ref. Mirror/prism (I have a prism unit, made in the 50's, and it works just fine and fits in a shirt pocket (1/2x3/4x2 when in it's case)
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
You may want to just suck it up and move to the 25 yard range to be on the paper, put it dead in the middle and you'll be real close at 100yards. 0 -
Bring your gun to my shop here in Hancock, NY we will bore sight your gun for free, always have and always will. Just another service we offer that your local Walmart doesnt.
God gave us all a gift. Have you found yours yet ?0 -
Like the others said, boresighting just gets you in the ballpark or "on paper". Still needs to be fine tuned. Alot of gunshops will do it for free. I normally just sight in at 25 yds, then move on out to 100 and fine tune. Get a 3'X 3' piece of cardboard and you should be able to hit it at 25 yds. Get the gun hitting dead on at 25 and it should be with in 12" at 100 yds. Good luck. 0 -
Unysis1;
the 2 shot sight in method requires a large piece of cardboard and a mechanical rifle vise (the type used for supporting the gun for minor work & cleaning.)
1) set your oversized target 32-34 yards from the firing line.
2) fire one carefully aimed shot.
3) place your rifle in the vise/rest & weight entire unit down with sand bags.
4) position so your scope is again on your point of aim.
5) carefully so as not to move the whole works, adjust your scope so cross-hairs move from point of aim to where bullet hit. (note- to move cross-hairs left, turn adjusting knob to right.)
this 33+/- yard sight in should make your gun about 2" high at 100 yds., 0ed. at 125 yds. & about 3" low at 200 yds.(generally my choice for hunting.)
sometimes I even fire another shot or two to verify results, but is not required when showing off. (I have won more than one bet saying "I'll bet I can do that with two shells")
"all I really need to know I learned in kindergarten" Robert Fulghum
anyone who says "nobody needs a full auto" has never been in front of a brown bear charge0 -
Hey Guys, I appreciate your help. My Rem 7400 is the semi auto, but my model 70 is a bolt. I have taken your advice and moved up to 25 yards, and am just working back. Thanks again guys. 0
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