22. pump failure to eject revisited
quote:It is a Westernfield model 80A which I was told was equivalent to Savage model 30. I tried Remington & CCI LR, Winchester shorts, and some very old Winchester Longs, all of them had the occasional failure to eject, the shorts almost every time. Working the action briskly did not help. The case is extracting, but not ejecting. I disassembled the rifle and removed the bolt. I could not determine how the ejector works at all. My best guess is that something relieves the pressure on the left side extractor spring, allowing the right side to pull the case out, but that's a pretty weak theory, come to think of it. I never claimed to be a machinist.
quote:Originally posted by Hangfire
Henry- If memory serves me right, the firing pin acts as the ejector. At the rearmost travel it protrudes from the bolt and forces the case away from the extractor. Being held by the extractor on one side, the case is forced to cant and eject.This force is not enough to fire a live round. I think the extractor spring may be weak,or dirty, and not firmly holding the case when it hits the pin.
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
Bingo on the mechanism. With the bolt in my hand, I put a snap cap in and pushed the firing pin and away it flew. The extractor springs seem to be ok but when looked at the receiver I discovered that the area that the firing pin contacts in the stock portion is worn and slightly indented and appears to have been brazed once before. Thanks for helping me figure this out. With just a wee bit of gunsmithing I have a dandy rifle to pass on to a young shooter.
So the problem is, the gunsmith I took it to is telling me how easy it would be for me to use JB Weld (as advertised on Paul Harvey!) and make the repair myself. Is JB Weld the right thing? It seems to me that it would be easier and last longer to put in a thin piece of sheet metal, bent at a right angle covering all the vertical portion where the back of the firing pin hits when it is acting as the extractor ejector and also covering most of the horizontal area. Any thoughts on this?
Semper Fi
Remember Ruby Ridge.
Experience is the best teacher and usually charges accordingly.
quote:Originally posted by Hangfire
Henry- If memory serves me right, the firing pin acts as the ejector. At the rearmost travel it protrudes from the bolt and forces the case away from the extractor. Being held by the extractor on one side, the case is forced to cant and eject.This force is not enough to fire a live round. I think the extractor spring may be weak,or dirty, and not firmly holding the case when it hits the pin.
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob
Bingo on the mechanism. With the bolt in my hand, I put a snap cap in and pushed the firing pin and away it flew. The extractor springs seem to be ok but when looked at the receiver I discovered that the area that the firing pin contacts in the stock portion is worn and slightly indented and appears to have been brazed once before. Thanks for helping me figure this out. With just a wee bit of gunsmithing I have a dandy rifle to pass on to a young shooter.
So the problem is, the gunsmith I took it to is telling me how easy it would be for me to use JB Weld (as advertised on Paul Harvey!) and make the repair myself. Is JB Weld the right thing? It seems to me that it would be easier and last longer to put in a thin piece of sheet metal, bent at a right angle covering all the vertical portion where the back of the firing pin hits when it is acting as the extractor ejector and also covering most of the horizontal area. Any thoughts on this?
Semper Fi
Remember Ruby Ridge.
Experience is the best teacher and usually charges accordingly.
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JB weld certainly has its place, but I sincerely doubt that this is one of them.
Proud member of the NRA
When I do good, I feel good; when I do bad, I feel bad, and that is my religion.
Abraham Lincoln
If I had only known, I would have been a locksmith.
Albert Einstein0 -
Keep in mind this suggestion comes having never seen the gun in question. Seeing the receiver metal is soft enough to have peened away over the years it should be soft enough to drill and tap. I'd drill a hole where the back of the firing pin contacts, tap it and put a hardened set screw there. That way it would be adjustable for wear in the future should the need arise.
Woods
"... there is much truth in the Italian saying, 'Make yourselves sheep, and the wolves will eat you.'" -- Benjamin Franklin0 -
I don't like to second guess folks very much, but a gunsmith suggesting JB Weld ????
Henry, think I would get a second opinion.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0
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