How to cure barrel movement
I had listened to my friends about sanding out the barrel band on my 1022 so it has the same effect as taking it off giving it more accuracy, now the barrel has a very small side to side movement that you can move by pulling on it...should i bed it or shim it or what else could i do to solve the problem...could this harm the gun from the movement?
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i think he was trying to achieve a floating bbl, but if the bbl is moving, its gotta effect accuracy....guys? i dont know 1022's much. it just doesnt sound right. sounds like he needs to put a new band on and tighten it up. 0 -
A free floated barrel will move visabily (under hand pressure), more so if the receiver is not glass bedded.
Floating does 2 things at the same time, 1 it allows the barrel to vibrate freely, 2 it eliminates the variance in bending caused by stock movement, which shifts the POI.
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
my M1A bbl has a 10,000' tolerence on floating. grease is all that keeps it centered. if he can wiggle it, it has to be too much. sounds like he has to bed the receiver now. agree?
former air operations officer SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 2. former navy skeet team, navy rifle/pistol team member. co-owner skeetmaster tubes inc.. owner/operator professional shooting instruction.0 -
Assuming you've kept the original barrel, and that so far your only "sin" was to sand out the inside of the barrel band (for some reason...); First off, you should disassemble the stock from the action & barrel. Next, using an Allen wrench of the correct size; slightly tighten the barrel clamping bolts on the bottom of the barrel in front of the chamber. Don't try to be Governor of Kalifornia; just see if you can snug 'em up a little. Now reassemble the whole shebang and see if (very light) side pressure moves just the barrel or the entire action/barrel.
If there's still movement, you should be absolutely sure that it's only the barrel, 'cause your next step is to disassemble, place 2 layers or sheets of heavy duty aluminum foil into the cutout area of the stock where the action goes, and reassemble.
Check for motion. If it's still slopping around in there; keep adding foil sheets until it's rigid. Mine took 3. Cut off all protruding/interfering foil and shoot for effect.
Disassemble carefully and note where the foil was compressed the most, and mark the wood where it was compressed the least; this'll give you an idea how much bedding compound you'll need and where to put it.
Remember; your whole aim was accuracy when you started this, so be patient, shoot it in different configurations before you commit to bedding, and be sure the barrel stays clear of all that acraglas gel!
If you know it all; you must have been listening.<br>WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0 -
Bobski, it depends on how much he is seeing and if it is returning to center (not stated in origional post). I can see my #5 conture barrel (30 cal bolt, well bedded) move under hand pressure but it returns to center when released. That I would accept. If it's not returning than yes bedding is definately needed. Gunnut505 has given a excelant procedure for the gentelman to follow.
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
Take exlax! Oops! Thought you said Bowel.[:D]quote:Originally posted by ruger891022
I had listened to my friends about sanding out the barrel band on my 1022 so it has the same effect as taking it off giving it more accuracy, now the barrel has a very small side to side movement that you can move by pulling on it...should i bed it or shim it or what else could i do to solve the problem...could this harm the gun from the movement?0 -
It takes some force to move the barrel...it also moves back to the center posistion when i let go...from what i have heard from rimfirecentral.com the ruger is supposed to perform better with out the barrel band...i don't think it is necessary in my opinion because you cant fit it over a bull barrel and the new models of 1022's don't have the band...just my 2 cents 0 -
Is it grouping better now that you have relieved the band? If so enjoy it and don't worry about the movement your seeing (under the conditions your discribing it's normal). If not, than purchase another band.
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
What you have failed to mention is what, if any, improvement you noticed after sanding out, or removing the barrel band. Was accuracy poor before the work? Did accurancy decrease after the work?
As far as movement goes, if the barrel clamping lug is snug movement should be minimal with light to moderate pressure and and all should essentially return to center. Don't "moose" on the barrel as you only have one screw/bolt holding stock and barreled action in place.
If you see no improvement or a decrease in accuracy but the barrel band back on buy buying one that has not been reamed out. Ruger will sell you one for a couple of bucks, or you can go on "flea-bay" and buy one. Glass bedding a stock configuration 10/22 is a waste of time, energy and money, that can be better spent shooting the 'lil bugger. Stock Rugers are super "plinkers" so enjoy it and quit trying to turn a stock rifle into a target rifle.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0 -
Hey guys and girls...i think i have solved my problem...i was looking at my barrel band and i seen that it had the stud thing for the sling to connect to...i unscrewed the barrel band screw and pulled the stud out of there...this no has extra tightening room...walla...put it back on tighetened back down...no more barrel movement that is visible to the eye...i don't need that sling swivel thing because i put a harris bipod on a new stud that i mounted into the wood and it has the sling stud thing allready built onto this...thanks guys for the input! ps... i think im gonna just leave it alone for now on and quit tinkering with it...better left that way....lol[:D] 0
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