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Cleanshot Powder in a Flintlock???

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5 comments

  • ker2222
    I am sure others may know more than I on this topic since I am a newer bp shooter.

    But FWIW in mho: All of the subs are "safe" to use in percussion or flintlock firearms. You might want to lighten your load a little since the subs tend to add somewhere around 10% more bang for the grain.

    However, all of the bp subs ignite at a higher temp than regular bp. That's why my local sporting goods stores can put cleanshot and 777 on the shelves but not real bp. As such, the subs can be dificult for a flinter to light. Hodgdon recomends "priming" the main charge in a flintlock with a few grains of actual bp--loading say 10grains of bp first and then dropping 60grains cleanshot or 777 ontop of that.

    I have enough trouble getting my flints to ignite a real bp charge and loading is already complicated enough. So, I just stick to real bp and deal with the mess later.

    Try it out and see how your weapon and load respond--the answer to all bp questions I have been told. Let me know if you can get your bp sub to light!!!
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  • Contender Man
    Cleanshot is my last choice of the substitutes 777 and Pyrodex run 1 and 2 in my book.

    Havent seen any ignition difference between BP and substitutes, but Cleanshot is a little "balky" so I can see where there may be a possibility of that.

    As for ignition problems with BP assuming your using a good priming powder of at least 3F and that you have your flint properly shaped, etc. so you may want to check the passage (flash hole) from the pan to the barrel for buildup. I usually run my pick through the flash hole everytime I recharge. Adds a couple seconds, but that's the way I am.


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  • ker2222
    I too would rank cleanshot as my least favorite bp substitute. I would also rank 777 far and away better than the rest.

    Here is what Hodgdon says about 777 and flintlocks: see www. hodgdon.com

    Flintlock: To insure proper ignition in flintlock systems, 5 grains of FFFFG priming powder should be placed into the bore prior to loading the main charge of Triple Seven, Consult the loading data in this brochure to determine the proper charge for the caliber firearm used and the chosen projectile. The main powder charge should be reduced by 5 grains to compensate for the addition of the priming powder. While holding the firearm vertically, slowly pour the measured charge of Triple Seven into the barrel. Seat the projectile firmly against the powder. Make certain that there is no airspace between the powder and the projectile. *See WARNING below.

    My understanding is this need for a priming charge is due to 777 higher "flash" temp which makes it good for shelves in stores but not so good in a flintlock.

    As to flint shape, I wonder if I am doing it wrong. I have always tried to keep my flint edge straight, even and sharp. Is that wrong?
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  • jjmitchell60
    I know that actual BP is getting hard to find but I have not found any BP substitute that actually works well with any of my flinters! As to spark, try some of the cut flint that TC sells for a better spark and longer life. Not authentic but if you are just shooting for fun no big deal. I relize this may be a stupid question but if you have to pour 5 or so grains of 4F in the bore then the BP substitute, then what is the use of useing a BP substitute? Unless it is a state law to not be allowed to own, BP is still readily available. I am picking up another 25 pounds in a month or so for this years shooting! Check with Log Cabin because they had a BP substitute on sale at Friendship IN at the National NMLRA shoot in june that was suppossed to be as good as true BP in flinters. It was sold in different grades from cartridge to primeing but for the life of me I can not remember the name of it. Check them out at:
    http://www.logcabinshop.com

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  • mazo kid
    My take on the BP substitutes is as some have mentioned above; you have to duplex load it using a load of 4-5 gr of 2fg or 3fg before loading your reduced load of the substitute, especially in flintlocks. Sounds like a lot of bother, why not use straight black powder and be done with it? You have to clean after shooting anyway and it is not that much harder to clean after shooting straight black powder. Some matches do not allow the use of black powder substitutes anyway. Emery

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