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jonk
I have seen in Midway's catalog that one can buy a barrel vise and action wrench for about $90. I have already had 4 barrels taken off by smiths, and 2 replaced and realize that I am now at the point where it would have been cheaper to do it myself. Whether I have another done in a year or in ten eventually I would get the use out of these things, and tend to think that if I had them, I would do more building guns if I found a good deal on a reciever at a show. So here is the question. Other than the barrel vise and action wrench is there anything else I need to remove a barrel? And to install one, is there anything I need besides headspace gauges and a chamber reamer, assuming the barrel is already threaded? Lastly, when installing a barrel, if there are no timing marks, does one just screw it down tight or is there a certain torque setting? Thanks.

"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf
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Comments

5 comments

Date Votes
  • MIKE WISKEY
    YOU WOULD HAVE TO REBARREL QUITE A FEW RIFLES TO GET YOUR $$$ BACK (10/20?), BESIDES THE TOOLS YOU MENTIONED YOU WILL NEED A CHAMBER REAMER FOR EACH CARTIDGE YOU REBARREL FOR AND 2 HEADSPACE GAUGERS (>$100). EACH ACTION TYPE HAS ITS OWN REQUIREMENTS FOR FITTING A BARREL (SAV. USES A 'NUT', MAUSERS HAVE 2 SHOULDERS TO BUTT AGAINST, REM HAVE A RECOIL LUG TO HOLD IN POSSITION). THE $$$ YOU PAY YOUR GUNSMITH BUYS A LOT MORE THAN JUST TOOLING.
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  • Pinhead
    I agree with Mike, unless your just wanting to do it yourself. In that case money is not the key issue. While your in brownell's catalog check out the book on rifle re-barrelling. It just might save you some money--at the very least it will tell you how to properly install a barrel and the equipment you will need to do the job. I would check it out good before investing a lot of money. The book is: Illustrated quide to Rifle Barrel Fitting on page 194 of catalog 56. There is also a VHS tape on page 193 called Custom Barreling Bolt Action Rifles. Hope this helps.
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  • v35
    Ideally, the new barrel will torque up, the sights will be exactly at 12 o'clock, the extractor cut will be lined up and the headspace will be at minimum. You have four factors that need to be correct.
    Probably the barrel will need some lathe turning of the shoulder and finish chambering is best done in a lathe for a round, even, concentric
    chamber. Hand chambering will likely be oversize in the body.
    U.S. military rifles might come out well without machine work.
    You could try it and save the cost of barrel removal and maybe get lucky on some barrels.
    The fixture could always be resold.
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  • jonk
    I think I'll invest in the book; I like the idea. I don't have a lathe but really would probably mainly be interested in building mainly Mauser rifles from existing components as I collect them- just for kicks- which would mean using already cut chambers, etc. So reaming would be at a minimum. But what the heck... it would be fun to mess with and satisfying to shoot.

    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf
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  • taperloc
    Hello jonk,
    Read you post and thought I'd throw in my 2 cents!
    Go ahead an buy the vise and wrench. You will probably screw up something at sometime, but you will learn from it. You always have to pay for you education and the screw-ups are the price. Just take your time and remember you dealing with 50,000 psi.
    I have rebarreled a couple of Winchester levers and have learned a lot. This forum has been a big help in that regard.
    Taperloc.
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