scope mount question
I have had problems in the past with mounts scratching scopes, which I dont like at all. Is there anyway or a particular brand that helps prevent this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Brent
Thanks in advance.
Brent
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Bet ya will have to go with the high rings and remove existing rear sight if still there... 0 -
High rings are likely; be sure to check what that will do to your head position on the stock. If you have to lift up too much to get your eye aligned with the scope, accuracy could suffer. Why 50mm? If you are hunting in poor light in the woods in the far north, that may have some utility, otherwise it is likely to be a liability in terms of extra weight, and reduced accuracy.
He Dog0 -
You neglected to mention if the 88 is a rifle or carbine. I guess there is little difference with only a 3 inch difference in barrel length.
Intended as a "modern" lever gun it was chambered in 243, 384, 308 and 358 in the rifle config. and in carbine 358 was not an option.
These really are not "distance" guns, even though it has chambering options for "distance" cartridges. Design (my opinion) was to offer a short stroke, quick handling, lever gun for "woods" hunting where shots are typically well under 200 yds.
Now with that "blather" out of the way ... High rings/big scope are going to pull your head up and away from the stock which being a standard profile will happen quickly. This will create handling/hold changes that may work more against you than for you.
Since you didn't say what your use/hunting situation is we can only guess, but in what I believe to be the "design" hunting conditions of the gun a 4x with wide field of vision and good light gathering capabilities would be the better choice over a "big" scope.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0 -
I WOULD CONSIDER A QUALITY 40MM OR 44MM , THE BETTER ONES TRANSMIT
MORE LIGHT THAN A SO,SO 50MM WHICH USALLY DOES NOT HAVE THE LENSE COATINGS THAT MAKE MORE DIFFERENCE THAN OBJ. SIZE WHEN IT COMES TO LIGHT TRANSMISSION..IF YOU GO WITH THE 50MM BEAR THESE THINGS IN MIND.
NOTE HOW MUCH CLEARANCE DO YOU HAVE WITH THE SCOPE YOUR REPLACING
[ ONLY NEED 5 MM ].IF YOUR REPLACING A 40MM WITH A 50MM THAT HAS SIMILAR OVERALL LENGHT AND EYE RELIEF THE OBJECTIVE WILL END UP ABOVE SAME SPOT OF THE BARREL PROBLABLY OVER THE CHAMBER AREA WERE IT IS THE THICKEST [HIGHEST]. IF YOUR NEW SCOPE HAS A LONGER TUBE THE OBJECTIVE MAY END UP FORWARD OF THIS POSITION WERE BARREL HAS TAPERED AND A LITTLE LOWER . UNLESS THERE'S AN ADJUSTIBLE OBJ. TO CONSIDER THERES ONLY 5MM MORE CLEARANCE NEEDED AND A LONGER TUBE MAY NOT REQUIRE HIGHER RINGS OR AS HIGH AS A SHORTER TUBE . THE 88 BEING RATHER SHORT IN BOTH MODELS, YOU WILL PROBLABLY WANT TO KEEP YOUR SCOPE AS SHORT AS POSS. . LONGER EYE RELIEF MAY ALLOW YOU TO MOVE IT FORWARD A LITTLE . THE FURTHER YOU GET AWAY FROM THE BULGE OF YOUR CHAMBER THE BETTER OFF YOU'LL BE.
THINMAN0 -
Thanks, the only reason I was going to try a 50mm was for field of view and light transmission. Several people told me that anything over 38mm with good coatings is not perceptable to the eye as far as light transmission, but the field of view might be valid. I have Leupold, Burris, Redfield, and other lesser quality scopes, but every dealer I talked with so far said the new Weaver Grand Slam is a great buy. The only drawback is the conditional lifetime warranty, and It doesnt make any difference to me, as long as the warranty is good for as long as I own it. 0 -
One other drawback I have found with the Grand Slam in a variable is the the diameter of the adjustment ring. It is huge! be sure you have good bolt clearance on it when working the action. Likely you will find your thumb getting banged at every action throw.
He Dog0
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