1911 Barrel Link size...
I want to switch barrels and slides on my Para CCW with those of the Para Companon (4.25" vs 3.5"). The tecs. at Para in Tennessee started shooting out numbers faster than i could catch them.
Is the barrel link the "final word" when it comes to how tightly your barrel will lock it's "tongues" with the "grooves" on the frame, as it goes into battery mode?
Is the barrel link the "final word" when it comes to how tightly your barrel will lock it's "tongues" with the "grooves" on the frame, as it goes into battery mode?
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Good tight fit of the barrel bushing and the link are everything when it come to lug engagement in battery. But the fitting of the tightness of the lug engagement is acomplished when fitting the barrel to the slide originally. The locking of the lugs in battery is adjusted by carefully machining the height of the lugs to allow the barrel to lock in flush but still be low enough to allow the slide to travel back once the link has allowed the barrel drop down far enough to disengage the lugs. Is this making sense or am I rambling?[:I] A good solid link that is within specs and not worn ensures the proper movement of the barrel "up" into the lugs in battery, and the width controls lateral movement. Anyway, depending on the tightness of quality control on frames at Para the swap should be simple and not involve too much if any fitting.
Yes the link is the final word, but initial fitting is where it all starts.
Why? Will the slide not cycle back from battery?
James
Do your troops train with live cobras? ROYAL THAI ARMY DOES!0 -
"ensures the proper movement of the barrel "up" into the lugs in battery"
The lugs are the bands of metal across the inside top of the slide?
Are the "bands" on the barrel also called lugs?
They quoted several barrel link sizes (198, 199, 200), saying the last was probably the one I wanted, because the others would cause the lugs to rub against one another and wear them down. The gun would still shoot, but not the same way....
I'm going to take the slide off my 1911 and try to simulate the barrel going in and out of battery to get a better idea of the pivotal part the lug link plays in 1911 cycling (no pun intended)0 -
The lugs are on the bbl. The slide has the seats for the lugs.
Love them Pre-64's!!!!-Bob0 -
Man, I love stumbling across old 1911 forum topics.
More reenforcement of 1911 knowledge never hurts.
Remember this one?
http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=899320 -
Hello the "MAIN" purpose of the link is to pull the barrel down out of enguagement with the slide The lockup of the barrel "should" be done by the feet of the barrel riding up on the slide stop pin. If you put in a longer link It will make the barrel ride up higher but this causes the fireing pin strike to be off center in the primer and the Link pin is not designed to support the barrel the barrel will try to twist because the feet are not in contact with the slide stop pin. a match barrel will have one shallow lug and very tall feet the first thing you do is cut the groove deeper untill the fireing pin is center to the primer and then cut the feet untill it will just slide up the pin with out binding and then and only then fit the link to not bind on the feet during its swing. 0 -
Reading these posts is giving me a headache! I suggest contacting Schuemann Barrels and asking for the literature Wil Schuemann includes with all his barrels. A little bit of cutting goes a long way, especially when you cannot put it back and you find out that the rear "joint" of your slide and frame does not match anymore, and the "thumb" safety will not slide up in place anymore without hitting the slide. The angle created by the link pin and the slide stop pin is critical, just like in the timing of a piston in a car. Does "TDC" ring a bell? If you have proper gunsmith training, buy the "unfitted" barrel, otherwise buy the "mil-spec" ready-fitted barrel, and use a suggested standard mil-spec link of .268-.270. size link. If in doubt buy a Wilson link set of five links numbered from 1 - 5. The number 3 link is the standard .268. From there you can go up or down. If the link is too long, it will not disengage properly and could shear the top of you locking lugs. If it clears it will be ok. Should the firing pin not be completely 100% centered it will be off by only a few thousands, and shouldn't interfere with ignition timing, but it may change slightly the point of impact of the bullet. Some people advocate the use of the longest link that will allow your gun to cycle, when very heavy loads are used. Others don't. Just don't go too short or you will have a smaller area of engagement in battery, shortening the life of your locking lugs top, or rounding them prematurely. 0
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