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FIXING jammed Model 29

scody
I have taken a Model 29 apart that jammed up on me. I opened the sideplate and the hammer and many of hte parts were rusted. What a shame!

1. The hammer is jammed/locked in the down position. There does not appear to be a transfer bar and the firing pin seems to be stuck threw the receiver. I believe this is the hammer nose.

2. I took the hammer rebound slide out and have having trouble getting the spring compressed to fit it back in place.

Anyone have any suggestions or comments other than take it to a gunsmith. I will probably do this after I figure it out and get it working so he cna clean it up.
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Comments

5 comments

Date Votes
  • Laredo Lefty
    scody,,, Leave the side plate off. Lay the gun on its left side and squirt breakfree or WD-40 liberaly all over the interior parts and let it soak overnight.

    The next day use a plastic or rubber hammer to "tap" on the hammer to free it. You might also want to check that the cylinder release latch is in the rear position. If in the forward position, you cannot cock the hammer back.

    If you can get it apart, you can clean it up yourself with steel wool or a small wire brush to remove the rust from the interior parts.

    If it does not work, then take it to a gunsmith.

    "Never let school interfere with your education"
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  • Contender Man
    Yes it is pretty sad that any gun be left to get in that condition. If it is that bad inside what is the outside like?

    Anyway, unless you have a pretty abused revolver that you would like to learn on ... let a gunsmith have it. If the revolver is basically just a "beater" then do as suggested using liberal amounts of penetrating oil and taking your time. Understand the mechanical relationship between the parts you are taking out and lay them out in a logical order that is representative of how they fit within the revolver. And as you've learned already trigger and transfer springs can be a "pain", but with patience you'll get 'em.


    If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!
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  • scody
    Teh cylinder will open and close. I could see how that lock mechanism worked when I removed the side plate.

    The outside is perfect. Looks like it is mint. While looking at it (my frined was showing it to me), I cycked the action and it stuck. that's when I noticed what appearred to be rust coming through the firing pin hole in the frame. I knew that was a bad sign.

    I found a diagram on the net and after studying the diagram to ensure that it matched the Model 29, I determined that the only thing that could be holding the hammer was some obstruction on the hammer nose where it passed through the frame.

    I took a screw driver and pried the hammer back and it popped free. It actually took a bit of efort. The hammer nose/firing pin has rust on it and it wedges itself into the firing pin hole as it passes through the frame.

    Now I just have to get the hammer rebound slide re-installed to put the weapon back together. Then, I can disassemble it and take the hammer out and clean it with penetrating oil and steel wool. It doesn't look like the rust has pitted any of the surfaces.

    I am amazed at how this thing works! I have never looked at the mechaniclas of a revolver before. Simply amazing!
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  • Txs
    I saw a M28 in similar shape once. The exterior finish was fine, but the lockwork was badly rusted and sticking. The owner had been seated in a car when he spilled a large cup of iced tea on himself and into his hip holster. He quickly wiped the gun down with oil but didn't consider what had entered the frame. The acids in the tea screwed things up badly, but luckily he had brought it to me shortly after he noticed the stickiness in the action.

    It took an overnight soaking of BreakFree, along with a lot of brushing and fine steel wool work, to get it back in working order.
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  • Contender Man
    Here's something you might want to do as a first step. With the grips removed and the side plate off in a plastic bucket or other clean container pour some kerosene into the container until the revolver can be fully submerged. Do this in an area that is well vented and not anywhere near open flames (furnaces, space heaters, water heaters, etc.) and drape a cloth over the container unless you have some type of a lid for it. Leave the revolver to soak for 2-3 days, and maybe once a day agitate it around in the kero some to wash away stuff that may have freed up. The gun should loosen up and you can then get about curing it.

    However, with all of that said if the outside is really in top shape, I think that you may be better served having a gunsmith handle the repair because once fully operational you have a pistol that is worth a few hundred dollars. If you use it as a learning aid you may end up with something worth next to nothing.

    Luck to ya and if there are any parts needs I may be able to help you out, so just give me a shout.


    If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!
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