19-4 S&W help quick plz
I just got it used,it wont cock back unless i move the slider a little.So if i pull the slider button on the side of the gun towards the butt it will cock then wont again until i do it again.
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That "slider" is actually the cylinder release latch, and if you were to take the revolver apart you would find that there is a tiny little coil spring in a hole in its front end invisible from the outside of the revolver, which pushes against the slot on the inside of the frame in which the latch rides back and forth. Sounds like your spring is too short or tired and needs to be replaced. A new, stronger spring will keep the latch pushed all the way to the rear where it should be. It is specifically made to prevent the hammer from being cocked when the latch is forward (another built-in safety feature) as normally when the latch is forward the cylinder is open. Now, a word of caution, if you've never had one of these apart don't do it, take it to a gunsmith, unless you have mechanical aptitude and some disassembly/assembly instructions as found in a book like "The Gun Digest Book Of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly, Part II, Revolvers". For someone knowledgable about S&W revolvers it is an "easy fix". 0 -
Where can i get one? Hard to put in? 0 -
Brad, check the ejector rod. Sounds like it backed out. The end of the rod that protrudes from the cylinder sometimes backs off... short of someone 'tinkering', I would bet that is the answer[^]
I don't make jokes. I just watch the government and report the facts.
--Will Rogers0 -
Here is a illustration that might help. If the ejector rod housing loosens and backs out it extends the distance from it's seat on the bottom of the barrel which forces the rear cylinder catch back far enough to snag the hammer when trying to cock it. Pulling back on the cylinder release usually allows the hammer to be cocked.
Cheers!
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Ejector rod, is left hand thread.
[:)]
It's my cat's world. I'm just here to open cans.
We got rid of the kids. The cat was allergic.
ATF,Eagle Guns0 -
If you not familiar with revolvers have a gunsmith check it over. Both of the other responders have mentioned possible problems, however it requires some amount of disassembly and if you've not done this before don't frustrate yourself by trying now and running the risk of making for a higher repair bill.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0 -
If it is a loose ejector housing, you do not even HAVE TO to remove the crane to tighten it[:0] 0 -
The ejector rod is still, LEFT HAND THREAD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[:(]
It's my cat's world. I'm just here to open cans.
We got rid of the kids. The cat was allergic.
ATF,Eagle Guns0 -
ATF- YOU ARE CORRECT! The "Note" is confusing in wording, but I think that was what it was trying to explain.
...Amazing that some people want an immediate'fix', but do not have the time to at least comment IF the recommendation is correct..
You're welcome(:-)0 -
If the ejector rod has backed out on you it's a very simple fix with modern (LH thread) S&W revolvers. Pinch the ejector rod with your thumb and forefinger to keep it from rotating, then stroke the action a few times. You can then tighten it properly when time allows.
This comes in really handy if you're in the middle of a firing string and you find the ejector rod backs out to the point that the cylinder won't open. It's a standard stuck cylinder immediate action drill for S&W revolvers and puts you back in business within a couple of seconds.
Give this a try, but I'm betting the problen is actually your cylinder latch spring. Replacing this is a 10 minute job and 50 cents in parts for anyone with even a rudimentary knowledge of Smith revolvers.0
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