S&W model 12-2(Airweight)questions?
1)Was the S&W model 12-2 a good gun?
2)Was there any known reliability issues-or, other problems with the model 12-2?
3)What should I have to pay, for a used(But, near excellent condition)model 12-2, square butt, 4" barrel? With slight flaw, in upper side plate curvature(See #4 below)?
4)This model 12-2, has a slightly rough looking edge, on the curvature of the upper front, side plate? Is this "Abnormal" or, could this be a factory flaw-or what?
5)Is the Model 12-2(4" barrel)very punishing to shoot(With normal .38 Special cartridges)due to it's lighter weight(Say, compared to a model 10, with a thin barrel)?
6)Is the model 12, a popular or, unpopular handgun? Give major reasons? Is it a good, S&W to buy(Or, to reject it?)?
2)Was there any known reliability issues-or, other problems with the model 12-2?
3)What should I have to pay, for a used(But, near excellent condition)model 12-2, square butt, 4" barrel? With slight flaw, in upper side plate curvature(See #4 below)?
4)This model 12-2, has a slightly rough looking edge, on the curvature of the upper front, side plate? Is this "Abnormal" or, could this be a factory flaw-or what?
5)Is the Model 12-2(4" barrel)very punishing to shoot(With normal .38 Special cartridges)due to it's lighter weight(Say, compared to a model 10, with a thin barrel)?
6)Is the model 12, a popular or, unpopular handgun? Give major reasons? Is it a good, S&W to buy(Or, to reject it?)?
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i will add just a little , some mod 12`s developed a crack in the frame where the bbl screws in, inspect this area carefully, it has been my experience that the 12 will bring slightly less than the same in the steel frame. an exception to this would possibly be the 2in round butt guns as they are lite, and offer the 6th shot that the chief doesnt have. i recently sold an unfired 12-2 with cosmetic flaws for 250.00, hope this helps 0 -
1) Good for what? It wouldn't be my choice for target shooting, or for combat, but many people would find it satisfactory for personal defense or informal shooting.
2) S&W revolvers have always been reliable; this model was no exception.
3) You can do a search on Gunbroker auctions completed within the last 90 days to get an idea of what used S&W .38's have been selling for. Off the the top of my head, I would expect an older .38 in excellent condition to sell in the $150-200 range.
4) The condition of the sideplate you described is known as a "butcher job"; someone with no knowledge of gun repair attempted to take it apart, & the damage is not repairable. He may have done other damage that is not apparent. Unless you really know how to evaluate functioning, or have a gunsmith check it out, you may want to pass; personally, I wouldn't pay > $100 for a revolver with that kind of damage.
5) Even a small woman should be comfortable firing this gun.
6) Not popular since the '60s. Design is 100 years old; most folks today like the double action autos. Yet, visits to dozens of gun/pawn shops have turned up precious few older S&W .38s. Make your decision based on what you know.
Neal0 -
12-2 is a "good" gun. Mfg. 1952 - 1986. After reverting to a steel cylinder there were no other safety issues. Under the -2 4 changes were made and with the exception of the change to the D s/n prefix in 1967 the changes were basically cosmetic and dealing with thickness of front site, eliminating flat latch and diamond grip insert.
Price is $250-300+ for 95-98% condition.
I agree with previous post .. the flaw you mention could point to a "yo-yo" taking the piece down and that would raise a lot of other questions. Also it could point to someone having an "oops" and dropping it ... you can't evaluate a gun by email, even with pix it is tough to make even general calls. An experienced person has to have the gun in hand.
Recoil ... the lighter the gun the more the felt recoil for the same ammuniton loading. However, with standard 38 loads it isn't going to be that great. A m12 with steel cyl. weighs approx. 18.5 ounces, unloaded which is around 50% heavier than today's "feather weights".
Firing hot loads, +P and the like ... I wouldn't do it. Above is a mention of cracking, most likely caused by hot loads. If the piece is in top conditiion, for defensive purposes, you could load some fit for purpose rounds, and if you do so you do have to shoot it some to learn the differences in point of aim/impact, but you don't want to fire a steady diet of the stuff.
The 12 is not a target gun or even much of a plinker, but a 4 inch bbl. does help. The revolver was intended as a light weight carry piece intended for "fighting".
Lastly if you feel you do not have the experience to properly evaluate this revolver ... either get the seller to consent to an inspection by a gun smith or walk away from it. If you want a 4 inch barreled K frame to plink with consider a M15, yes it is heavier, but it has adjustable sights and is more suited to the task, plus it will handle defensive loads as well or better than the 12, probably better, and slightly heavier weight aside it presents the same carry problems that any 4 inch, medium frame revolver presents.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0 -
1)Well, the model 12-2, in question, looks to be "Unabused"! However, I was concerned that some "YO-YO" could have damaged the sideplate, while improperly trying to remove it? Otherwise, the appearance of the finish, is excellent!
2)Yes, I was also considering possibly, a model 15 or a model 67? Or, even a nice model 18(Cheaper to shoot).0 -
67 would be nice because the stainless finish is obviousl tougher. And if you want to downsize to 22 then either the 18 or 17 will fill that bill as well.
All are better choices than the 12 for what your talkin about doin.
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0
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