Jamming in Lugers, P38's, etc.
I've heard numerous times that using commercial American ammo in Luger P08's usually causes jams and that you should use European military ball ammo. Does the P38/ P1 share this problem? Does anyone shoot Sellier & Bellot 9mm out of their Luger? Since it's manufactured in the Czech Republic I figured it would be more like European ammo. I have a Manurhin PP .32 that can't get through a mag w/out jamming with Winchester, but it'll eat up S&B all day long.
-Marcus
-Marcus
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I have a P08 luger that works just fine with Win 115 gr ball ammo.
I have tried flat points in it and it does not work with them.
I think it is more of a factor of bullet design rather than who made it that determines if it will function.
The luger and P-38's, like the 1911 pistols are of military design, thus were designed to function with ball type ammo.
"Never let school interfere with your education"0 -
My experiences with European automatics have been the same and while I seldom use any ammunition but Fiocchi in these pistols, I've had very good luck with S&B as well. Winchester ammunition seems to offer the poorest results in the European automatics.
Mark T. Christian0 -
The original 9mm Parabellum (also known as the 9mm Luger) round was made more powerful than today's ammo. The P08 (Luger pistol) was designed for that ammo.
One of the worst enemies of a Luger is underpowered ammo.
My humble 2.5-cents worth,
Rafter-S
"What is truth? No wonder jesting Pilate turned away. The truth, it has a thousand faces -- show only one of them, and the whole truth flies away! But how to show the whole? That is the question."
--Thomas Wolfe, "You Can't Go Home Again" (1934)0 -
I've got a couple of each, and mine really like GECO 124 gr. FMJ (German) 9mm Parabellum. These are pretty reliable guns if you keep them clean. In fact, awhile back a buddy finished viewing the "Band Of Brothers" series and told me that he had never examined or fired a Luger. I loaned him one and supplied some of the above ammo. A week later he returned the pistol with about half the brass and said that he couldn't recover the rest--it was on top of his Dad's carport! Good stuff. However--beware of some surplus ammo, notably Finnish and Swedish made for submachine guns and functioning in arctic climate. These are too powerful, and will damage your pistol after a few shots. Mine will, however, function well with U.S. factory ammo also. 0 -
Lugers need full power loads. In commercial loadings, the 124 grain bullet may give you best reliability. My 9mm handloads are always maximum.
The Luger action is very strong and unlikely to blow up but it has a serious weakness. An over pressure load that pierces a primer will allow gas to drive the firing pin to the rear and possibly break off the rear of the bolt the firing pin spring guide locks into. It may also damage the firing pin spring guide. Recognizing the problem, three grooves were cut in the sides of most firing pins to allow gas bypass but they dont do the job.
It's a wonder this problem wasn't picked up in the US Army tests of the early 1900s because primers were purposely thinned to check for pierced primer problems. I suspect the integral anvil of the Berdan system probably protects the cup from blowing out as readily as the Boxer.0 -
I purchased a surplus P1 a couple of months ago (for $299) and have found it to be 100% reliable, and accurate with all brands of commerical FMJ and SJHP's I've tried in it. The only 2 malfunctions I've had were when my Grandchildren were shooting the Walther for the first time and each experienced a "limp wrist" malfunction. I explained to them a proper grip, problem solved. I love my P1.. It seems like a bought a Mercedes firearm at a KIA price. I don't think the P1 has the problem associated with the Luger. Best Wishes [:)] 0
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