Barrel removel M1 Carbine
Need advice for proper removal of M1 carbine barrel, also advice on any tools required. Pete
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quote:Originally posted by Dokey
Need advice for proper removal of M1 carbine barrel, also advice on any tools required. Pete
You need a barrel vise and the proper action wrench to start. Also the proper headspace gages, etc. if you are putting it (or another barrel) back on.
Unless there is some reason you just have to do it yourself, I'd take it to a gunsmith who already has the proper tools.
John0 -
The tools run about $50 and it's pretty easy to do. COMMON SENSE stuff.
You will also need a good anchored bench vise to work with.
What men call a hero...is merely a man who is seen doing what a brave man does as a matter of course.
A man who is in love with learning is a man who is never without a bride, for there is always more. L'Amour0 -
You need a good heavy duty 6" jaw vise with smooth jaws that wont spring easily. With the barrel pointed up, clamp the receiver solidly on top of the receiver ring and on the flat on its bottom (not on the block with the assembly pin hole).
Use a 12" Crescent wrench on the barrel flat, NOT ON ITS SIDES up close to the receiver. Snug it up and use jerking motions rather than an even pull. The barrel should come off easily. Do the reverse for installing the new barrel.
The new barrel should line up with about 100# on the end of the wrench.
If you see any springing of vise or wrench, use better tools.
Assemble the bolt and slide and see that it readily goes together and the slide operates smoothly. If not, you will have to either loosen or tighten the barrel a smidgeon.
If it feeds, chambers, the bolt closes fully, and ejects, shoot the gun and be happy.0 -
quote:Originally posted by v35
You need a good heavy duty 6" jaw vise with smooth jaws that wont spring easily. With the barrel pointed up, clamp the receiver solidly on top of the receiver ring and on the flat on its bottom (not on the block with the assembly pin hole).
Use a 12" Crescent wrench on the barrel flat, NOT ON ITS SIDES up close to the receiver. Snug it up and use jerking motions rather than an even pull. The barrel should come off easily. Do the reverse for installing the new barrel.
The new barrel should line up with about 100# on the end of the wrench.
If you see any springing of vise or wrench, use better tools.
Assemble the bolt and slide and see that it readily goes together and the slide operates smoothly. If not, you will have to either loosen or tighten the barrel a smidgeon.
If it feeds, chambers, the bolt closes fully, and ejects, shoot the gun and be happy.
The Carbine has very thin receiver rails, and you have to be MOST careful of what you are doing or you can easily distort it- a LOT of them were ruined this way.
Remember: your head and eyes are going to be behind whatever you are shooting as the end product, so think and act accordingly.
John0 -
Couple of the things I've learned over the years ....... applys to Guns especially are:
1. If it's Not Broken......Don't Fix It!
2. If it's worth doing,......Do It Right, even If you have to PAY to have someone ELSE DO It!
Not sure why you are changing the barrel or need it changed, but you might consider what I've learned...............Good Luck!
I Miss The World I Grew Up In!0 -
John, the method works. The carbine receiver is not soft. It's 4140 steel, heat treated to about Rc 40+ so you're not liable to crush it especially with the barrel in place and using sensible clamping force.
The smooth jaws in a non springing vise will not mark the finish. One could use thin brass or aluminum shim stock on the receiver bridge for insurance. Of course every mechanical job involves some judgement and if you don't have it, anything can be screwed up.
I don't know where you get your information, but inexperienced guessing should be in the form of a question on the Experts Forum not an answer.0 -
I am very happy to see some self-sufficenty on this forum. Why pay someone to do something you can do yourself.
I would recommend using a proper barrel clamp and action wrench, or in the case of a carbine, a barrel wrench and action block. They are available from several dealers and as long as you remember Lefty Loosey, are pretty much foolproof.
Carbines are one of the easiest barrels to r&r.0 -
quote:Originally posted by v35
John, the method works. The carbine receiver is not soft. It's 4140 steel, heat treated to about Rc 40+ so you're not liable to crush it especially with the barrel in place and using sensible clamping force.
The smooth jaws in a non springing vise will not mark the finish. One could use thin brass or aluminum shim stock on the receiver bridge for insurance. Of course every mechanical job involves some judgement and if you don't have it, anything can be screwed up.
I don't know where you get your information, but inexperienced guessing should be in the form of a question on the Experts Forum not an answer.
Excuse me, but I didn't say the method wouldn't work. I have seen a whole bunch of guns ruined by somebody who didn't really understand what they were doing when they started work on a piece. In my general experience, if somebody is asking how to do a barrel pull job and what tools you have to use, they probably aren't experienced enough to do it properly.
I got my information from 40 odd years of working with guns, is that fair enough for you?
John0
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